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That makes sense, thanks Jack!

I don't understand this schematic, it shows one 4mfd capacitor going between two tweeters, then has a arrow showing one between the woofer and tweeter... why does it show a broken up line with an arrow? Am I supposed to use two caps?

Awesome, thanks again gadget!!

Working on an old Emerson phonograph, hot chassis amp, using a 12AX7 and two 50EH5's... There's a 22ohm "fusible resistor" that measures fine, but it is crumbling so I want to replace it. Would a 2W or 5W cement resistor work in line with a fuse? Would a 250V 2amp or 1 amp fuse also do?

yeah, it'll be fine.

Thanks again!!

It's going back in the unit...

Awesome! That's a great Stancor ad...

Thanks Gordon, just curious what would I look for specifically if I did want to replace it? Still in the dark when it comes to transformer specs.

It is riveted, but poorly done, and loose; definitely was a replacement...

Thanks so much for all the help, I guess I'll leave it in!

Working on this mono amp which came from a VM record Player, model 560A. Someone replaced the original output transformer with this Stancor one, and I'm wondering if it's appropriate, or if I need to get another?? OPT says; 8 W. Universal Output S or PP Plates to Voice coil? 75ma DC. Max.

Stromberg Carlson console: I was trying to figure out why the larger 12" speaker was buzzing, and I totally destroyed it...Since I need to now replace it; is it a woofer? Not sure of the units model number, and no numbers on the speaker itself... the smaller speaker sounds almost like a full...

gadget, you always have the answer!! Last night I tried to move those brass gears by hand, thinking what you said, that maybe they were loose on the end like on a rivet, but they didn't budge... so today, I tried carefully turning them with some pliers, and sure enough they moved pretty easily...

Tried a smaller spring, but that won't work, the bottom gear is definitely not supposed to go through the spring section of the other gears... it looks as though the only remedy is to remove that locknut and see if the whole shaft will come out, but I have a feeling the first brass gear is not...

Yes, it would need to go completely through the toothless section... that's been the problem, and why it only tunes halfway; I could use a smaller spring, but my question is, is the gear supposed to go through and over the spring??

Okay, got the free gear off, but looking at this, that backlash spring gear will always hit the other gear and stop it from going further, unless I can somehow turn the backlash gear 180 degrees, which I can't since it seems locked into that position it's now in... I don't get it!!

It's all the way closed... when I turn it to open, it only goes halfway due to the backlash spring...

Okay, thanks, wanted to make sure!

Thanks gadget, I believe it is a model 101 chassis... it just doesn't look like the gears can be moved independently from the condenser, do you think that rear nut and screw should be loosened up?

Working on a Stromberg Carlson tube amp/radio... the tuning dial is only working halfway through the stations, stops dead when the dial gear hits the anti backlash spring... Doesn't look like it's adjustable either, how in the world do I fix this?

Thanks for the info, I'll take your advise!

Thanks for letting me know, I think I'll play it safe and order 475V caps! Appreciate it!

Working on this Magnavox 142aa mono amp. The original filter caps are rated at 475V; all I have is 450V caps, but not sure if it's possible to go down in voltage? Also the choke is bit melted, is this common? Or should I replace? If so where could I get a replacement choke?...

Picked up this incredibly heavy Toa power amp, never heard of them... Wondering how to hook up to the inputs of this? I figured I would use my iPod since it has a volume control... Any thoughts?