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RESOLVED: It was a large washer on the linkage assembly associated with the slide switch. The washer was basically cemented on -- dried up grease. A little WD-40 and a small blade screw driver and was able to loosen it. I saw some other posts regarding the same issue and fix. My brother -...

I know this is an old post, thanks for the advice -- I have the same exact issue with my Realistic Lab 50, which I have been told is a BSR. The switch is seized. Planning on tearing it apart and relubricating everything.

Yep -- I will definitely do that. It's a belt drive turntable. The motor works and platter will spin. It's the inner working of stop/play/cycle switch is seized. The picture(s) shows switch assembly -- the "white" arm is directly connected to the play/cycle slide.

I have a Realistic Lab 50 that will not switch from Stop to Play. Removed the back side and didn't see any immediate mechanical issues (e.g. springs, loose hardware, etc.) I see where when it does move from Stop to Play -- it engages a micro switch which turns the platter. But -- never gets...

I have a chance to purchase a 9090DB for $600 -- it's in excellent condition. Your thoughts?? Good price??

I was trying to remove the dial pointer itself. It is really glued in there. It broke at the 90 degree bend. I cut it off squarely and still opting for printing one and securing with glue. Unless I find a replacement for the dial pointer assembly at a reasonable price.

Thanks Steve for the tip!! This is definitely one option I am looking to do -- Looking on Ebay for a replacement. Tough to find.

Does anyone know if the dial pointer housing can be removed from the tuner string easily? It looks like it is secured with glue or rosin, but can't tell if it is threaded through the plastic housing or not.

Thanks for the tip! I have a 2252B -- if it's the same pointer, I could use that to dimension that part.

I'm going to bring in a super bright flash light and search the area -- it can only be 1 of 2 , possibly 3 locations here at work. I'll keep you posted. If so -- I'll glue it. We have a 3D printer here at work -- if I can remove the clear pointer, I could definitely print one and replace. I...

Doing a recap and relamp, I managed to break off the dial pointer piece (right at the 90 degree bend)--- can't find the piece broken off. Anyone have experience replacing one these? I'd like to just replace the clear pointer -- might be difficult if glued into holder. or Can I replace entire...

Found it. I took a good look at backside of PS board using a Scienscope. It was a hairline solder short between leads of C808 (3.3uf/50V). Glad that's fixed. The phono board is recapped. Getting ready to remove power amp board and recap.

Thanks for checking -- did confirm they are both correct values/voltages. C803 is Nichicon Fine Gold series (470uf/63V) and C804 is a Nichicon MUSE (470uf/50V).

Attached is pic of recapped power supply. I measured 4.38VDC at collector of H805..should be ~41.2VDC. Removed H805 -- diode tested OK. Powered unit without H805 and measured 46VDC (at collector of H805). Any thoughts??

OK -- guys. Thanks for responses. I'll post a pic of PS - -and do a thorough visual myself. Also, will start taking some measurements. I'll keep you posted. Will be this week sometime. Thanks again.

Just replaced all (6) capacitors on the Power Supply Board (P800 Board) , and was checking power supply adjustment output. I'm getting around 5VDC (instead of the 35VDC) --R808 doesn't seem to make too much adjustment difference. Not sure if this was an existing problem, since I didn't check...

Refurbishing / Recapping a Marantz 2220B for a friend of mine. Just getting started. I just recapped the Power Supply Board (P800). I found all of the capacitors at Mouser, except for the Main Filters caps, which I purchased at Parts Connexion. I'll also recap the Phono board, Power Amp...

I know this thread is a few years old, but thanks for posting. I'm currently working on recapping a 2220B for a friend of mine. I'll probably go ahead a replace the tuner caps too -- he's getting it realigned. I figure somewhere around $150 for tuner alighnment.

One of my next projects is to restore my Sansui 9090 -- it definitely needs a new cabinet. Anyone know of a good source -- either original cabinet or a custom made cabinet? This restore is going to be my "keeper" receiver. It's a beast. Thanks, Rick

Yep -- That's what I ended up doing (cut leads and left soldered lead wires attached. Thanks for the advice.

I have 1975 Advent Loudspeakers -- I just had the woofers refoamed and want to rebuild crossovers. Has anyone has any luck replacing the Non Pol Electrolytic Capacitors and Resistor without removing the crossover board? Looks like the board is stapled and hot melt glued. I have the Rev 2...

I'm sure you can probably find them on Ebay. I haven't measured the diameter, but I'm guessing they are the 3mm type. Plus -- I'm sure there is plenty of info here on AK about them.

Great! Glad to hear. Attached are the rating for the lamps. The dial pointer lamps are PL8 and PL9. I believe the stereo indicator lamp is PL8.

After re-cleaning the pots again and letting the unit sit over the weekend -- the FM stereo is working very well along with the stereo indicator. Also readjusted VR3030 again. I'll put everything back together and do a final check-out. Thanks so much for the help!!

Yep -- I just tried that earlier today with some Deoxit -- still no difference. I'll check the signals again and check C303 as chazix mentioned.