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congratulations

prayers and condolences

Joined: Dec 12, 2012

very nice. i need to get off me backside and finish upgrading mine. there are several good folks in here and i just need to take advantage and get mine up and going.

very nice looking!

looks nice

:music:

i like it

very cool

very nice!

that looks nice

sorry for your loss

great job, looks very nice and clean!

Larry, I'm glad all went well. I pray for a speedy recovery!

hmm, good idea. I'll mull it over a bit

removing old parts and dry fitting new ones. I'm slow but moving along.

and a very skinny solder iron

Fisher 400 later model

Goodluck and watch the heat!

Goodluck and watch the heat!

more to come! BTW, I have a lot of respect for the ones that can solder so effortlessly. this stuff takes finesse!

I ordered some parts from mouser and finally got my Russian caps. since I am a rookie, I have to post my first cap replacement!

gotcha. I measured 121V from the wall where I plug the unit in. ( I've decided to only turn it on as I'm performing rehab and nothing else until it's finished. I want this to last for many years) Also, when I replaced components, should I unsolder the connections, use a sucker, then re-solder...

I do not have a variac but I believe I can make a DBT easy enough. I saw, on youtube, where a guy used a dimmer switch and cut an extension cord and wired it up so he could vary the output. I would think if you could put a meter on it and see if you could "dial" up 117v with it that you would...

as I refer to the schematic for my late model 400, I think that C62, c42,c45,c47,c49,cr1(bridge rectifier), C60A&b, C52A-D, c56, c57a-c...these are the POWER caps that I should be concerned with replacing?