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Got this guy on the cheap, some bozo put in 15A rail fuses instead of 10A on the left channel, and now it’s completely shorted. Other channel is fine and comes out of protection. What’s the best move here? Look on eBay for a unit or a set? Part it out?

I have a CA-1010 that's pretty much stock, comes out of protection but on headphones is making so interesting noises, then as soon as you turn the volume control, it goes into protection. Wait a few seconds, back out. I'm assuming there's DC on the volume control, but I'm not really sure how? I...

Relay clicks on right away with the power, and the protection light doesn’t stop blinking. TR601-3, 5-7 replaced with KSC1815 and TR604 with KSA1015. ZD601 replaced with a 5.6V Zener. D604 with two 1N4148’s. Caps replaced. Otherwise things are pretty much the same. Not sure what could be the...

MY4-02-DC48 is EOL. Mouser has one, but I have plenty of MY4-02-DC24. Looks like the 60V is dropped by a 470 ohm 1/2W resistor, I'm imagining a 1k 2W resistor will be what I need here?

All transistors replaced, all caps replaced. Decent level white noise on the left channel. All that’s left are the TA7136’s and the IC’s - has anyone seen this happen before?

This one was stuck in protection. A pre driver transistor had been replaced, as well as the fuses between the driver board to the output board in one channel. I found an output blown as well. I normally replace emitter resistors, but 0.18 ohm 5W is very hard to find in the normal form factor...

No drilling holes, no solder bridges, no “it barely fits back in the unit”. Just hot glue and leads. Panasonic JW2ASN-DC48V.

Posting mainly for posterity. Not much out there on these. The sub amp is the same as a NHT SubOne and SubTwo, Sunfire True Subwoofer, etc etc. I’m having a friend fix the amps as he knows them so well.

I’ve had a passive, huge RH Labs sub before, but this one is powered and seems pretty nice honestly. The protection fuse was toast, but now it’s singing along. It’s got a Pyle New Wave driver in it, which I thought was a replacement but the wires very factory soldered and it’s installed well. Hmm….

Redoing a Marantz 240 right now with the black faceplate, and I don't trust this type of small signal transistors, so they're all going. I have: SPS1928 - BC550, is there anything with the correct pinout? SPS1951 - BC547C, should this be low noise? SPS1952 - BC557B, again, should this be low...

Well, tweeters pushed in, all drivers work, dust cap half off, and weird double sided tape that tore off part of the baffle. This will be fun. I’ll probably replace the tweeters because the domes look bad even after I pushed them out.

So protection is a MY2-02-DC48, but no one has been replacing the soft start it seems.... I think this is the one, KUP-11D15-48, can anyone confirm? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-potter-brumfield-relays/KUP-11D15-48/1127816 Original is 3PDT for some reason, even...

Without outputs attached, it's spitting out -5V then it keeps slowly dropping. The collectors of Q3 and Q4 are way off, Q3 being -10V and drifting towards zero, and Q4 is 3V. Base voltages are correct. Collector of Q5 is -6V. All voltages in the input stage seem correct. All input voltages are...

On defeat and off, the unit sounds great. With Tone and Filter on, it drops -20 dB or so, and the midrange control doesn’t really seem to work. I’m assuming that’s not normal…. Controls are cleaned and power supply outputs checked.

Is there a long version of the F4UEE? This pushbutton is toast and need to replace it, and ideally don’t want to use leads to extend the switch.

I’m fixing these up for a friend, and trying to figure out the best path of action. I think they’re utility cabs that someone did a bad veneer job on? It’s bumpy, peeling off, and the grills are “custom” made, trim painted black. I ordered caps, sealant, badges, grills, and new controls.

Anybody seen this jumper unsoldered before? Obviously, I can just leave it be, but I would like to solder it or remove it…. Just strange it has that trace that would complete it but it "runs into" another trace.

I don’t usually have issues with this model, but here we are. Outputs had died among other things on this channel. It’s currently sounding great, but won’t bias at all. I replaced every transistor and flame proof resistor, and the emitters. Not sure what else could be bad. Power supplies...

Need someone to remind me how this can happen, the 535 I’m working on gave me what felt to be almost a line level shock on the chassis when the power plug is in one of the two options. The resistor measures 2M Ohm so I think it’s still good, but what else could it be?

Super weird. In protection and power isn’t getting to the LED. Offset is near zero both channels, and there’s a good 46V going into R83, but only 1.2V out. I’ve replaced near everything with zero effect to the voltages. What’s drawing the power?? I’ve even taken Q33 and 34 out of the circuit...

These are huge and heavy. I gotta get them off the ground and honestly might need to cover them somehow. I’m thinking the JBL L100/ADS L810 style angled metal stands, but worried they’ll be too heavy. A friend also send me the idea of buying table legs off of Amazon or similar and a piece of...

It’s the big one…… Multiple traces corroded away. Gee, I wonder why it wasn’t working anymore?

I restored this 2330 (non-B) this spring and went all out on it. All new transistors and even the BA312’s were replaced. Outputs were left alone, and now here’s my question; can they cause (pretty loud) crackles and pops? It’s only in the left channel, and it’s for sure in the amp section since...

Got some work to do. Is AVA just not doing polydome diaphragms anymore?

A client brought in one where the phono input was making plenty of noise. I put all new transistors in the preamp board, and now there's quite a bit of distortion when aux or tape has anything over a very quiet signal. 132-095: BC547 132-096: BC557 132-092: BC549 132-042 (2N3905): BD139 These...