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I didn't see any air motion transformers, so "best" is an obvious misnomer.

The 10" cones in the listening room are, on paper, the same as the six inch cones in the home theater. Sitting down and listening favors the 10 inchers by far.

Hear-hear on the Aleenes repositionable. Unlike Elmer's, it stays pliable.

Jeez-Louise! What a downer. And such a happy looking little pig!

Yeah, like @Montycat said, only my output (Denon AVR3806CI) is premplified. It will do frequency, phase and level. Manual or automatic adjustment. I suppose I could assign an amp and cross it over and adjust the level, and possibly even do the phase via a "distance" control.

Or if you have a a receiver or preamp with a controlled subwoofer output, a second-hand standard external power amplifier can be had for a song.

Holy crap, that show is pretty close to our (your old) places. I may show up down there if I can get into the Spatial Audio exhibit.

Gar' If you're still in that better part of 20 years, we'd probably demand some sausages, and, as the boxes of wine emptied out, the tall tales of what's actually in it. The house we're in will also have a pair of 1530s unused in the basement that I'll have to dig up a receiver for. It could...

Johnny, We're having a pork (what else)-fest this weekend featuring a big, fat Denon and a pair of 1230s. The usual suspects with the usual boxed wine will be the judging panel. You need to move back to the correct side of the mountains.

I made a pair of subwoofers that matched the width of the 780's, which made them the bitchinest pair of speaker stands ever. They're powered by a Kenwood power amp that I got from this hinky guy in the old Wigwam parking lot and controlled by a modern home theater receiver. But the real beauty...

It's funny you should ask that. I would've never expected it,but there was a slight improvement in the lower end with the replacement of that cap. Of course, the smaller woofer wouldn't measure up to the bigger one in the 880's. I also got an improvement to my ear replacing the electrolytics in...

I'm surprised that I've never seen anyone experiment with "aircrete" speaker boxes. Although the weight issue would be resolved, there would need to be some form of laminate (veneer, formica) on the outside. I would imagine that they would be acoustically inert.

There is nothing like big drivers in the main speakers. All serious listening is done with them, as opposed to the skinny towers in the home theater. I get the best of the both worlds between the 10 inchers and the transition drivers. Both the tightness of a well padded bass drum and the drawn...

I understand that TS specs are only part of the story, hence the phrase, "starting point." TS specs are not everyone's cup of tea. Most bypass them entirely in favor of the subjective, largely unsubstantiated opinions of someone who sounds a little more "knowledgeable" than they do. Even more...

Correction: A PAIR of 10 inch woofers that will work with a 2.6 cubic foot enclosure. Not that anyone pays attention to TS parameters as a starting point in the woofer quest with so much loose hearsay in abundance.

On most ADS speakers, the only electrolytic in the circuit was the high value one that parallels the woofer. Everything else was box film caps that normally don't need replacing as they're pretty durable. My L780 /2 had a pair of low leakage (not sure how critical that is) electrolytics in the...

To my ear, the 810's wouldn't be an upgrade to your 880's. Although I've never A/B'd them in the same room, I swear on a stack of pancakes that, in a non-A/B setting, the 880's bested the 810's in the lower end department much as my 780's out-bassed the 710s in the vaunted Porkloin listening...

If I could add to that: Those insanely puny tinsel wires between the terminal on the driver and the coil. Whoops, I forgot that skinny-ass coil wire.

Another method of tweeter/mid dome removal is to stick the sharp end of a small L-pick (the little orange ones from Harbor Freight and cheap and effective) through the hole in the driver and up under the flange and pry up with a demo bar/rubber tool (hammer, screw driver, something of the right...

We use 10% of our brains and have the knowledge of the world at our fingertips. You can be putting out better solder jobs than OEM with the smallest bit of perseverance. The most valuable bit of info on soldering I've gleaned from the web-thingy was the size of the tip (not surfing porn) - most...

It's a Catch 22 of sorts. In order to measure accurately, you have to take them out. As long as you've taken 40 year old caps out, does it make sense to put them back in when a replacement is $1.58 ? This is a question only for guys that can't solder and don't have $1.58.

The AC that your amp is putting out is a totally different animal from the DC train of thought. As Houdini pointed out, DC has limitations as a measuring tool for a complete loudspeaker. AC is impacted by the drivers PLUS all of the components of the crossover no matter their location...

Mojotone.

Many would chastise you for replacing stock pots with L-Pads, claiming that the learned engineers down at Infiinity must've used pots for a perfectly valid reason and that the bean counters upstairs had nothing to do with it. As always, I'd be curious about the results of a blind listening test...

The only way to get "this kind of sound" is with ribbons or AMTs. Unfortunately, everything new out there with ribbons or AMTs requires a co-signer.