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Trying to worth through this as ground loops are always a pain in the rear, I recently upgraded a pioneer PL-520 from an AT VM95E to a AT33PTG/II. The preamp we are using is a Cambridge Alva Duo. With the old cart there was not much of a noticeable hum, if any, and switching to the unused MM...

Ive gotten my left channel up and running, based on specs, and availability I had to go with ECG58 and ECG59 for my outputs, the specs match the original MT-200s perfect so my guess is the NTE parts are the same part with a different badge. I normally wouldn't use the ECG/NTE subs but to be...

To be honest with you, a UKL nichicon (sadly being discontinued) is likely overkill. I think I've thrown a UES there before too. I haven't looked at the 250M schematic in a while but I recall that 10uf tantalum being a DC blocking cap in the signal path.

Upon further checking I now, at least somewhat see that having the 220ohm resistors lifted was part of my issue as they complete the circuit, but I was getting tired of them burning up on me.

If my memory serves me correctly the tantalum cap on the 250M is 10uf, so your best bet is a quality electrolytic cap, just due to size constraints

Working my way through a very butchered G-7700, it went to an absolute hack shop, to a reputable tech who unfortunately passed away before he could get to it, and now to me. So far it seems like one channel is probably ok to go but my other channel keeps smoking R51 and R53 with no outputs...

I know this is an older thread but by chance is that service bulletin available in PDF format anywhere? I cant seem to find it.

They may have made some minor layout changes, the pins all look the same to me as do all the traces.

Pretty sure the 2252 and 2252B share the same tuner section.

pretty much any higher voltage diode meant for rectifier use and DC blocking will work perfectly fine here.

They are 17v zener diodes, the cross reference list I've seen calls for 1N5247. You would probably know if they weren't working since you'd be missing your + and - 17.7 or so V used in the input side of the amplifier causing most if not all of the voltages on the left-hand side of the 250M<...

Back in 2021 I ordered a faceplate from them for Mcintosh stuff, took close to a year to get. Was excellent quality but the wait was killer.

Just get general purpose caps, they're the exact same except not gold

My experience has been that Marantz receivers are no more, or less, sensitive to OFDM induced noise than any other 70s-80s receiver or tuner. They are pretty much all subject to it because digital noise was not present when they were designed.

The other thing I'm finding strange is that there seems to always be 26V AC at the timing motor, this seems to be enough to make the motor studder a bit and then falsely trigger the mechanism.

Based on the SM I don't think I'm supposed to have 14-15V on the GR pin of the PWX board but I really can't tell since there's no voltages on the schematic for that section. It's just bizarre, it brings the arm over drops it, then immediately returns it. If I quickly bring the arm to center I...

Hi, I'm working on a PL-570 that originally had a cracked gear in The timing motor. I replaced the busted timing motor and now the arm comes over, however as soon as the arm is dropped the tables picks the arm back up and returns it to rest. The only thing I've noticed is that the connections...

You could use any .10 cent Chinese cap and be perfectly fine, assuming the cap is actually within the specified tolerance. What you ultimately would be sacrificing is long-term reliability as many of those super cheap GP Chinese caps are of nefarious quality. The WIMAs usually come out to...

Overall circuit design is far more important than individual capacitors when it comes to the tone of the circuit. Those GP film caps are far better than any "Audio Grade" electrolytic cap when it comes to the specs that matter. Id take a nichicon UKL if I had to but thats usually a cost-cutting...

I much prefer WIMAs when theres low-value lytics (sub 10uf) installed. The lower leakage helps in preamplifier locations.

CPU Grease is perfectly fine and in my experience better than the old white stuff they used. You just have to make sure that what you're using is non-conductive, most manufacturers have switched from conductive to nonconductive pastes as the conductive stuff would cause issues for any...

The buzz is through the speakers and not mechanical, and it only happens if the main filters have fully discharged, right on power on it'll buzz. I just find it strange that one buzzes when the amps warm up and the other doesn't even when everything I've done to each is the exact same.

I just finished up repairing two of these guys, the build quality is kind of miserable but they sound great. I wasn't a fan, that at least, in mine, all the Transistors were 2SC1400 (failure prone) or 2SA750 (also can be problematic). I also noticed that my larger TO-92L transistors had actually...

500 watts may be what it says on the back, I would expect at least 350 watts pulled at max power with a test tone just due to transformer losses and inefficiency in the class AB output stage

People like giant power cords for the same reason they like esoteric speaker cable, marketing teams. The 3-6ft from the wall to your unit is negligible when you consider the amount of wire in your walls.