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Restoration notes: When I finish a project, I like to post a few notes about oddities, etc. (1) Take some pictures when disassembling these Tandberg receivers, they come apart really easily once you figure it out, but it can be tough to remember where all the little 5 mm hex screws go. I love...

Lastly, the sound: Setup: Schitt Modi DAC, with Tandberg Tr-2075 (80 wpc), and 6" speaker stands with a slight tilt to point the tweeters at my ears. The sound was sensitive to speaker placement, I ended up with a little extra toe so that the axes cross about 3 ft in front of my chair, which...

Just a general follow up on the NS-690 II. (1) These Gold Binding Post Banana Jack 5-Way Speaker Terminals are a drop-in replacements for the original spring terminals. They look very similar to an auction item that is much more expensive. The actual replacement was slightly complicated because...

Yes, it looks to be a tube (T) lamp. It has 24V/50mA stamped into the steel base and I bought it from a reputable AK'er. I'll try a new lamp when I get a chance and check some voltages in the vicinity. Its gonna be hard taking it back to the bench though because I'm enjoying listening to it so...

So it turned out to be the new stereo light (24V/50mA). I unplugged it and the pop was gone (along with arcing in the relay). It looks like the right rating for both the 2075 and 2075 mk II, but mine was a little long and was pushing up against the housing, maybe that was causing a problem?

Thanks, I found an "extra" screw on my work bench... I'll take a look inside and see if the tuner has unsecured ground. That would be an easy fix. My next step will be cleaning the connectors and checking for cracked solder. I definitely wont solder the connectors... it would be a pain to mess...

Quick update: The pop only occurs when I turn the unit off in the FM mode (with or without the tape monitor depressed). So, I think it's a leaky cap from the FM tuner. I didn't change those caps because I really didn't want to mess with the alignment, since the FM sounds pretty good. The other...

I'm listening to the NS 690 ii now, they are a whole different beast. I'd call it a more "modern" sound vs. the KLH 5s. The 690s are much clearer and the bass is tighter and maybe lower, but more restrained and less full. I suspect if I recompared all of those recievers with these speakers I...

I've recently revived a TR-2075 and it sounds great. However, I have a loud pop that visibly moves the woofers when I turn the receiver off without disengaging the speakers via the speaker selector switch. This is a non-issue for me, since I'm used to turning down the volume and turning the...

The new surround arrived with a 11.1" outer diameter. This diameter was sufficient to glue to the frame, but did not cover the entire frame surface. The re-re-foamed speakers sound great now. While I had the speaker apart, I also triple checked the cross-over wiring (all looked good). I can...

The vendor is sending me a smaller surround. I will install it next week and report back. The vendor recommended asking questions before gluing in the future. After some thought, it's hard to blame the vendor for not knowing/documenting every variation of every speaker. I think there is a lesson...

I'll switch the wires before cutting the surrounds off. That would be an easier fix.

Will do. I don't love refoaming, so I will try to avoid that if possible. But, the surrounds really feel off.

Thanks for your input. I didn't realize these woofer frames could have two different frame sizes. I just assumed the business selling surrounds for the NS-690 II knew they would work, and would tell me something critical like that they might need to be trimmed. Now I know to measure and check...

I just recapped and refoamed a pair of Yamaha NS-690 II. The tweeters and mid sound great. The woofers seem weak and I suspect the foam doesn't fit right. I bought the foam from a prominent vendor and it was about 1/2" too wide to fit in the frame. I triple checked my order, but then figured...

In repairing electronics, I've found the need for lots of strange tools and products. What are some of the strangest things you've used? I have a pile of dental picks that I use semi-regularly. My grandpa collected them, them my mom gave them to me when he died. I shrugged at the time, now I...

The above link is now broken, but the product is "knob inserts", which look promising. Here's my solution: plumbing teflon tape. Wrap as much as you can while still being able to push the knob back on. It worked on a speaker selector switch that I rarely used and was pretty stiff. Then a...

Good questions... that I don't have the answers to. I'm looking forward to the results of your project. I have a humble set of NS 690 ii waiting for new caps. I went with Dayton's for price and mostly ordered the closest value for simplicity. I'm not sure I have the ears to hear good vs great...

Also, I've done 6 or 7 restorations now on different receivers. I am finally starting to recognize what the hell is going on in a schematic. The output of one section is the input of the next and each section is probably a standard circuit that you can find on the internet with an...

Whenever I perform surgery I always power the unit up on a dim bulb tester. If I messed with the power supply or main amp, I check the idle current to make sure it is extra low. Then I plug the unit directly into the wall and set the idle current. NOTE: I've had some trouble setting the 330B...

At this point, the lights, meters, AUX input, FM stereo, and phono (lo) inputs are all working well. Good times. How does it sound? It's got a full sound with plenty of bass. It has no problem pushing around my KLH 5s (unlike my similarly power-rated H/K 330B although that model wins in other...

Some other oddities to note: there are two non-polarized 25 uF electrolytic caps in the phono stage that are clearly marked with a polarity in the schematic. I replaced these with polarized caps, but up a voltage rating. I *hope* the non-polarized caps were just to provide some security against...

I replaced the bridge diodes with a 15 A / 1,000 V module (Vishay GBPC1510). Since each of the original diodes was bolted to the chassis, taking them out produced extra space to bolt the new rectifier down. I also found a filter cap that needed solder on one end. But, in the end I just replaced...

Besting your Luxman R-1050 with another 1970s amp/receiver might be a crapshoot unless the new unit is restored and/or significantly more powerful (say 80 WPC). All the receivers I've recapped came out sounding much better; basically, more detailed and less muffled. I suspect the R-1050 would be...

I second the suggestion to change speakers first, then worry about the receiver. But, in terms of receivers, do you have approximate price and power range (WPC) ? You will probably get endless suggestions, partially because some amps/receivers with the most prominent bass may not be as...