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Look on the underside of the top cover. That’s where you can find the calibration procedures. You‘ll need go down to “VU Meter”, put a 1kHz -10dB signal to the input, monitor switch to source and the VU should be at 0.

I didn’t know these were around so bought 2 of the NSS/e versions for the AT3600 and Shure M95ED. I tested the AT3600 with my linear tracker Mits LT-22 and the M95ED on my Kenwood KD5100. Both were set at 1g. Exceptional separation, luscious lows and crisp undistorted highs. Really nice for the...

Yes, I agree. I added an IEC 3 prong connector to an old Kenwood M2 amp and connected the ground lug. All that did was to introduce a ground loop and produced tons of humming. Disconnected the ground, essentially putting it back to original, and the hum is gone. Most, if not all vintage...

Check out DRM Audio. He has everything you might need to completely restore the Kenwood Basic line, including the C2. Super high quality designs. He even has the loudness/balance board that would address the item you mentioned. I have 3 C2’s and have installed his parts I needed in each one.

I know, super old thread, but the power plug is wired wrong. No wonder it blew fuses. Should be red on top, white on bottom and ground lug empty. The new owner got a good deal I bet.

I’d be interested but my wife would have a fit. I have 9 cassette decks. I buy them broke and repair and calibrate them. I can’t bring myself to sell them after that.

Nice. The handles make a huge difference in the looks of this great machine.

I’ve had my KX-1030 for about 2 years and this weekend got around to doing a full cap change and trimmer updates. I previously recapped the power supply board with high ripple Nichicon UHE caps and the Dolby/osc board with Nichicon audio caps. This weekend consisted of replacing all 79 caps on...

yeah he is up and running. Just ordered some M2 parts today, 2/17/23.

I’d remove C47 and make sure it’s not shorted. If it is it will take the diode right ground. Easy enough to remove and check.

Not sure. The FFWD trick is just that. It will stop playing again guaranteed. I don’t remember how many times I’ve done that but finally decided to fix it by removing the motor and cleaning the commutator and brushes. No matter if you clean or replace the motor remember you have to remove a...

The service manual calls for a 50K pot. Mouser https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/652-PTR902-2020FA503 fits and works, and it even clicks off. The following needs to be done; 1. The pot has 2 locator legs on the bottom rear. Clip those off. 2. The pot is longer than the original so C46 and...

That would work. I was looking for gold plated jacks. I did order some from DRM audio. Thanks

Thanks guys. Order placed for the RCA jacks and loudness/balance board. That’ll fix all my issues!

Yes great products from him. I just ordered 2 of them. That’ll fix my loudness that doesn’t latch on one and fix up both balance pots.

Excellent, I have a C2 where the loudness switch doesn’t latch. This would be perfect. Thanks.

Hey ajfink, I have deteriorated RCA jacks in my C2. The output RCA Jack screw mount is broken. I’ve found some gold plated 1 and 2 Jack parts (from Farnell) but not the 3 Jack (phono/CD/Tuner) piece. Were you able to find a replacement for the 3 rca Jack part? If so can you point me in the...

Sorry, lost track of this thread. Glad everyone found this balance pot useful. Still one of the better preamps around when everything works:)

I have the KX-3010s big brother the 3510 that’s very similar. Start with downloading the service manual. PDFs are all over the web. The system schematic is one of the better ones as it traces the signal path for you. I would give a quick check of Q3 and Q4. Check the voltage in record (the...

So, I replaced all 4 of the .027uF (250V Panasonic) mylars and the left channel cleared right up. Excellent. When I ordered the 4 mylars I also ordered all the caps for the power supply board as well. They looked easy enough to replace and ended up replacing those today. Those 13 caps made a...

Just finished up repairing the noisy left channel by replacing all 4 of the .027uF Mylar caps with Panasonics from Mouser. C27 was the issue. I then recapped the power supply board with Nichicon UHE caps and did a calibration. Fantastic sound and play back, and just as good as my Nak CR-3A now...

When I separated the motor I sprayed Deoxit directly on the commutator and it didn’t do a thing. The oxidation is baked on. Tried scraping with deoxit and a toothpick. No luck. Only 2000 grit paper would remove it. I suspect the motor heat bakes it on.

I agree with you. It’s not an easy task and requires some skill with the tiny parts and sequence. I want to keep the original in tact if possible. I have an RF-510T just in case. I don’t mind if I have to do it again if needed.

The Mabuchi RF-510T with 10/11mm long shaft is perfect fit. I have one waiting on standby if needed, the disassembly went without a hitch. I would think most people separating the motor would just rip out the brushes without knowing how to do it. The whole process requires steady hands and...

I just fixed my CR-3A for the stop playing syndrome. As others have said it is the reel motor commutator and brushes oxidizing. If you want to really fix the issue you’ll need to physically remove the motor, disassemble and clean the commutator and brushes. Deoxit and banging it with a hammer...