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I seem to recall working on some piece of gear quite a while ago that had those Sanyo caps and I think the schematic said it was a solid aluminum electrolytic, if I'm not mistaken. I replaced them with Nichicon UKL low leakage.

I did pop my head into the standing room only room as they were playing something and I noted the massive horns. I thought it interesting. I had no idea at the time they were million dollar plus speakers. I probably would have paid more attention to them and stuck around for the next showing had...

I went today and only spent a few hours there. Had a good time with my son. I really enjoyed the Yamaha room where they had some of their vintage history components on display like the CR-2020 receiver, C-4 pre-amplifier, NS-1000 and NS-10M speakers and one of their original turntables from...

OK fine. Buy another deck then. I always thought Sony model numbers were the most confusing ever from any manufacturer. The sequence of numbers don't seem to have much relevance in performance and then to give identical products completely different numbers for different markets is insane.

Probably splitting hairs jumping to other Sony models, as the KA6ES is near the top echelon of Sony's already. I would expect to have a big jump in sound signature or performance, you need to go to a different brand, like Nakamichi, Akai, Pioneer, Tandberg, etc, etc. It also depends on how you...

That's possible. I just did a Google image search and the only rear panel view I found showed the 75 ohm connection only. Very fortunate that you have both!

I looked at some pictures of the 505 and there are no 300 ohm connections, nor a 75 ohm coax connector. Just 75 ohm clamp and thumbscrew connections. You will need a 300 ohm to 75 ohm balun to convert the impedance and a coax connector from the balun to the terminals. What a PITA! Why couldn't...

Sony TC-K777 and TC-K777ES both have three heads and full, front panel bias and sensitivity calibration, and will handle Type III FeCr, as well as Type IV metal. Digital meters though.

Heat is one of an electrolytic capacitor's worst enemies. Replacing those right next to a heat sink certainly won't hurt. Use 105C rated caps. Many modern caps are smaller than their decades old counterparts for the same capacitance and voltage. This will also help the heat situation since a...

Terry can do cassette rollers. He's done many for me. But he can't use plastic hubs, only metal. Pinch rollers are sold by size, not so much by model. Fixyouraudio.com has most standard sizes for cassette decks.

I prefer vintage, mainly because there are so many excellent direct drive, quartz locked tables out there, whereas most affordable new stuff is belt drive, which I personally would pass on.

While the PL-570 is the top dog in the series and would be the pinnacle of the series to have, I can recommend the PL-530 and 540, both of which I had owned in the past. Both are direct drive, with the 540 being quartz locked as well. The 530 is a beautiful wood grain, classic looking table that...

333Hz is just fine. The difference between 333 Hz and 315 Hz is negligible.

Typical issue with the old Pioneer CT-F series are the snap switches at the top of the transport. Specifically, the tape presence switch on the right. They are near impossible to clean effectively and easier to simply replace the switch. That would be a good place to start.

The 44HX is one of my favorites. No question, keep the Denon. My opinion only of course.

@Ftlbs Are you talking sonically not even close, or features, when comparing the C-4 and C-60? I really like my C-60 but I'd love to audition a C-4. Not that I'd even get close to using all of its cartridge loading capabilities, but it is impressive and I think I would enjoy working on one.

If I had to guess, and based on past experience with this machine and many others, I would say your heads are gone. Likely due to gap erosion, not hours of use, which is unfortunately all too common on these Pioneer Uni-X-Tal ferrite heads. I have found the vast majority of Pioneer CT-F1250...

If the pinch roller pivot arms are free and not gummed up with old grease, the likely cause of your slow to engage head block is a slipping cam belt. Very common for classic transport Nakamichi's and easy to replace by yourself. PRB part number SCQ4.8. Once this belt is replaced, your slow...

Yes

Two things you can and should do to keep it in tip top shape. 1) Use it! The worst thing you can do to a high performance tape machine is let it sit and never use it. Belts take a set and stretch out, rubber dries up, lubrication goes bad, metal surfaces start to oxidize, etc. Environmental...

Never heard of LCSC, but their website looks good, which is encouraging. At least their English is correct (always a good sign). Looking through their site, I get the feeling like these guys are the Mouser/Digikey/Farnell of China. I also have a grenaded MX-800 that I have already ordered and...

I had never heard of a CX-70, only the older C-70. Anyone know if this was a European market only product or name? It looks identical to the C-65, which is pretty much the same as the C-60 (which I have), internally. If that is the case, it has a capable phono section, with some cartridge...

Sounds like either the tape itself (SSS), or the capstan bearing lubrication. There are bearings at the front and back, so oiling the bearing from the front will only reach half of the bearings. The capstans must be removed to lube the rear bearings.

You can only fix one? Why not have both fixed? They are both really nice decks. If they are both out of commission, get the one you want to listen to the most done first. When funds or time allow, then get the other fixed.

What Tinman said. Also, you said from your other thread on this machine, you thought this may not be the original head. That could explain it as well. Can you see any part numbers of this head?