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Well, I came across a new *old stock* Alps switch from a supplier in China last Monday, purchased it for $25Can (including fastpak shipping). Received it yesterday, soldered it into place/installed it & the receiver is up & running again, rather nice to NOT hear the snap crackle pop that was...

Unfortunately the switch is *dead*, the contacts are burnt so badly they are past the point of saving except for permanently soldering them closed.

Curious: he's in Croatia, he does have a *new* replacement power switch, looks like a similar heavy duty version of the old ALPS TV5 switch. I have emailed him for a price as there is none listed. Converting Euros to Can will double the price.

Quite possibly so, I could not honestly confirm that as I don't make use of the A/C outlets on the back of the chassis, but after near 40 years one doesn't expect everything to last forever.

this is the basic switch....... this pic has only 4 terminals, the centre terminal is missing (tho that terminal is not used) the two small swingarms (think bi-metal strips) inside move sideways in two directions (basically a go/no go movement), the contacts are on one side of each arm, in the...

The two small swing arms are made of copper, the contacts on the ends of the arms look for all the world like the flints one finds in an acetylene torch striker (sparker). They've burnt to near nothing. The switch has 5 terminals in the casing but only 4 are actually made use of, the center...

Hello there: seems my needed repairs to my receiver is beginning to grow larger. The power switch has finally decided to *not wanna do this anymore* Pulled it apart to find the contacts on just the arms have burnt themselves to beyond repair. the switch is an ALPS SDGP5....I could repair it...

Thx for the correction on the misinterpretation on the chassis. another problem I am having is understanding the schematic prints for the receiver. They are confusing to me, I can locate an actual conductor on the board, trace it to where it partially goes to, but the schematic will show many...

Thx for that Pete, the ribbon cable is hard/stiff black, the chassis is anodized. I've got to get back into diagnosing the problem on the preamp side, the dolby board has been worked on in the past, it needs more work. I did have a thread going on some of the conductor routing last year, as...

Thx very much for that..........

I wanted to try & get an idea as to what the year of my 9090DB is..... that's it in my sig pic I purchased it in '81 from an individual who at first was pleased with it but then decided to go with a high powered Carver amp of the era. It's possibly suffering from *Dolby disease*.... I lost...

Thx Pete, I'm not going to take any more of JK's thread, I'll start a fresh thread & supply you with all I can. Steve

It's been approx a year since i last posted with the Dolby issue with my 9090db.....(which as of yet has not been solved). Pete how does one distinguish the year date of the improvements to the Dolby board? Steve

you have an ENORMOUS amount of patience....outstanding work

aaaaaaaaaah......I'm feeling that those two ends are reversed, on the bottomside of the board 703 & 30 are soldered backwards, & at the vol board the outer shielded conductor is presently soldered to H, I'll have to put the receiver up on the table again to correct that issue. The schematics...

Doug.... here I have a small hurdle....I can't tell from the schematics which of the two conductors that are housed together go to the vol control pot on the cal meter vol control, if one is a floating ground then they both can't go there.......see the photo I attached, the bottom of the Dolby...

If this were still the 60's & i'm a boy my father was an electronics engineer & had more than one of them, but that was then, unfortunately I don't have one within reach.

Isolated the mains, plugged in the outputs from my Minidisc player and turned the output down to -40db and the amp plays...sound to the speakers, so following the signal path the problem is in the Dolby section, can't see it being the Loudness and -20DB mute switches or the Volume and Balance...

LOL.......already beginning to lose the upper spectrum the left ear....sucks to get old....

interesting on this comment, I found that the conductors are not all single core wires, in that photo I took the open pinhole is filled with a conductor that is a single core wire, but the poor connector three pinholes to the left ( a gray wire) has a core & a ground surrounding the core and...

before posting this thread I was looking at a 5 year old thread on a similar problem, one the members posted the signal flow path from an much older thread.... http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/9090db-no-sound-all-of-a-sudden.307652/ if one removes the jumpers on the rear of...

More info needed.....looking thru another post here on another members 9090db issue.......removing the preamp section bypasses the Dolby section? If my problem IS in the Dolby section can a simple input directly to the main in from a source that has variable audio output overload the main amp...

still no joy, unit powers up *sort of*, no audio, no dolby functions, ........completely puzzled as to what's happened.

Now I've stumbled on something I was totally unaware of, some of the conductors used are not a single shielded conductor but a two conductor wire that has a core which is shielded from the outer conductor in the same manner as a live shielded inside an outer ground. I'll have to resolder the...

Well, I found another poor connection on the Dolby vol control board, (3 pins to the left of the arrowed empty pinhole) the wire was not getting proper conductivity so I had to snip off the bad end & resolder it back onto the board, now passes current to the other end on the Dolby board...still...