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Working on a Pioneer PL-L-800 that is in good shape. Looks like someone was in here before me putting in new caps and maybe reflowing some joints. Open issues include some intermittent responses from the tactile switches. I'm trying to locate the "Locate In" and "Locate Out" switches. They...

Lol, now it's down to 168°F...been running at medium volume for about 20 min. Would that be something settling in?

After running for 10 min, dropped to 198°F...

Ok, I ran it off the DBT to get it smoking, but no smoke. It does smell hot, however. The only component getting hot is this resistor (see pics). It's getting up to 218°F. Normal? Looks like it's meant to get warm.

Been putzing around with this Marantz SR-3100. It initially popped two of the rectifier diodes and smoked wildly when I first powered it up. I replaced the diodes, put in new filter caps (were out of spec) and put on new STK080G packs. Then, proving I can be taught, I plugged it into my dim...

Perfect! Thanks for the info, much appreciated!

Are diodes like capacitors where you can use higher voltage, just not less?

Gadget73/Gktaudio - thanks for the quick replies! I did download the service manual. However, I don't see Q801-Q804 listed on the parts sheet. Here is how the one remaining unexploded diode reads...

I have a Marantz SR 3100 that blew out a couple diodes in the rectifier. It appears to have 18 S2V printed on it (see below) Need help identifying a good replacement. Thanks in advance!

I checked it with my cap tester and is shows as a .8 ohm resistor instead of an inductor. Definately toasted. Finding a .16 mH coil was a challenge. Finally found one in MI.

Yes, that's it! I've got the coil and caps on order. Thanks for the info!

I am repairing a pair of blown Klipsch Choral's. Looking at the crossover...it must have gotten really hot at one point as shown here by the melted spool and burnt tape. Question, is this inductor still usable if it ohms out? Thanks in advance!

Unit has power, but no sound on any input...Checked fuses, all good. What's the next most likely failed component? BTW...The speakers show unplugged in the pic below, but that was not the case during my testing. I've actually hooked the speaker harness up to another amp and they work fine.

Perfect! Thanks for all the information!

I have a tv above my rack and want to show a full screen spectrum visualizer from a micro PC in the same rack. Anybody using anything that displays based on the line in signal on a windows PC? Willing to pay for something not loaded with malware... Thanks in advance!

Hey Tom. Seemed like I had to press them several times on one speaker to get it to ohm out. What is the best way to test the them? I have an DMM and a DC bench power supply...

Ahhhhh...ok. I'll search on that. May be why I was striking out.

Anyone have a good source for these? Or is there a compatible replacement? These are from a pair of Technics SB-L300's...

Ok, on to Mouser. Thanks!

Working on a JVC JR-S100. It plays and sounds great. However, it has an audible hum on all inputs. Replaced the filter caps, no change. Also makes a pretty good pop when turning on. No occilloscope, just a mm. Where should I start looking? Full recap of the power board? Transistors? Any...

Perfect! Thanks for the info!

Replacing filter caps in a JVC JR-S100 and found the caps to have a third leg. Noted as NC on the side. Any idea what that's for? Does it just maintain polarity? Looks like it doesn't connect to anything but an isolated pad. Also, any tecomme dating for a good replacement? They are Elna...

It did! Excellent, thanks!

Anyone have the trick to removing this platter. Seems to be screwed to part of the motor assy. according to the note on the platter? Looked for screws from underneath and nothing is apparent. Do you have to remove the bearing plate? Thanks in advance!