Got a bad 2SD666 transistor in the Amp that needs replacing..Called mouser and spoke with a Tec and her recommended a MPSA06....Just want a second opion..I have used ECG 382 in the past with very good results but wanted to try and get a little close in spec..Below are the specs for each...The...
Originality Plays a big part to a lot of people..I prefer not to create more problems to if possible ..Just stay as close to original as I can and redo to last another 40 years,,Some one else can figure out how to put a 6 pin transistor in a 3 pin hole in a receiver that is almost 50 years in...
To quaddriver..Will answer best I can remember..
1)Yes I did the SM reccomended offsets
2) as far as the "plop" sound it was BEFORE I went back and heat shrunk the 2 C1845 together..I did not think or know to check the offset whiel it was making that noise..
Thanks for the help and advice of pairing..I see that this little fish here has swam out in deep water,,, Soooooooooooo I will stay in the shallows and observe...:oops: ...
I have been following along and not replied till now as this has been very informative to this green horn..However what I am reading made me go back and check Q-701,702 on the power amps of my Marantz 2285 non B..Being this was a first resto for me I did not PAIR these 2 transistors(KSC1845)...
My Bad on the notation of mV..I apologize for the order of listing for the settings..I always refer to the spec for proper sequence ..I was just going on memory of the procedure when I typed this for each step..I follow the order as it is written from the specs...
That seems to make sense(for what little I know)..If I understand correctly that is the reason( on my marantz 2285 non b) the spec says to adjust to 0 MV at speaker output with no load AFTER I adjust the amps to 20MV first..If I am understanding correctly...
:biggrin: Your paint skills are better than my knowledge of what MS Paint is...My wife circled the the transistor in green.. I can click on something I dont know( trying to learn) and lock a computer to where when I log on again it does not ask for a password it says NOT YOU AGAIN...
Just a curiosity question here...Why are 2 transistors (2-sa1775 for example) heat-shrinked together with thermal paste between them..What is the purpose of this and the difference it makes...
Look at how the listing(seller) describes the unit(condition,,,pictures,,wording,, working condition,,etc,etc)..IF you received it NOT AS DESCRIBED my bet is Ebay will make him pay...Been there done that as a seller and buyer..
THANK YOU ALL for your help in this matter..The KSC1845 works...FM Deemphasis is now working properly..My FIRST thought was it was the switch till I posted the symptoms here..Mr Tom Catrafter sent me an outline of how the circuit works in the schematic.I studied it and started tracing,checking...
I have seen him on there and actually bought from him in the past..Parts were very good..Would it be best to replace H-305 as well while I am there..Both are 2sc372...
that was my thought but wanted to be sure that the IC spec of ,05 would be enough for that circuit...In the past I have used transistors off ebay and have had no problems.But does not mean a seller has junk also...I just did a complete recap and upgrade of this unit and DONT want any more...
Seems like just as all was working something else poped up..CATRAFTER helped me with this issues and I thought I had repaired it,,I got an intermittent problem with the deempahsis working on one channel only off and on(It would cut in for a while and then would cut out or not come on when shut...
Mr rBuckner..You got me to thinking...I went back and checked C 325,326 again and the schematic..You were partially correct...When I redid the DOLBY board I layed the old tantalum caps beside the the new WIMA caps.I pulled both at the same time science they were the same specs,,In my moving...
Will do that when I get in from work monday,,I called myself checking each part real good..I am almost certain it is isolated to the P300 board as it was the last board I worked on with the tantalum's..It worked perfect after I did the DOLBY board( the 4 x 1.uf 50v WIMA replacement)last...
I recapped this unit with help from AK members and it works excellent,thanks to your help..The only board I did not tackle was the P300 FM MPX Board..Well after consulting here on AK I tackled it..Other than having to be a contorshenest and learn to be ambidextrous All went very good..powered...
Thank you Sir..The pots on mine were pretty smooth b4 I used the doxit..I had the preamp board removed from the unit to work on it..When I sprayed them I worked them 15-20 times and let them sit over night..No issues with any thing oozing out and worked perfect..I dont know if the B unit pots...
The last components I did were the P700 power amps..I did a lot of research here on AK before I started these..I want to thank MBuras for his posts of the components used as it was the basis for for my parts list because I did not know what to look for as it aught to be..I posted an earlier...
Back again and trying to finish this thread..A lot more involved than I thought for being a first timer at this..Want to try and be as correct and detailed as I can..I know I missed some parts when I ordered (Replacing tantalum's and other lytics) but that will be another time in the near future...
While restoring this unit and reading previous threads posted about recapping AM/FM boards I was a little hesitant to recap the P200 FM IF board..There seemed to be enough positive comments than negative so I figured I would give it a try..I was hesitant to remove the wire wraps but was...