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Well, then the problem might be harder to find than assumed. I'm starting to think the problem isn't in cold solder. It might be an open cap on phono board after all. You could try wiggling the cables a bit with phono input playing with the top lid opened, just be careful of course. :)

I meant input terminal board, sorry for misleading you. It's on the same side plate as phono board.

Did you try input selector board?

Yup, you'll have to unscrew the right side plate, unplug some of the cables going into PCBs mounted on the right (a bunch of them so take pictures and mark them) and then you can pull the right side from the frame. Consider your self lucky cause It's the easiest side panel to pull from this amp...

What I wanted to say is, if they wanted to save, why cut there if it's like you say vital to outstanding performance. That is a no no even for someone as basic as an accountant.

Why would they abandon it than? Could this be a cost saving measure?

So, I've made a BOM list on Digikey for every board with the components I intend to change. The list consist of: 1) All electrolytic caps except the main filter caps(saving those for later). I used Nichicon FG where ever I could. 2) Replacing orange film caps with polypropylene (C0G where...

Those side panels shouldn't be a hassle. Just pick your favorite wood and apply a glossy finish. Inexpensive too. Don't forget to send nudes! :biggrin:

I'm just following the usual procedure seen here on AK when trying to get out the best from the amp. I want to keep this simple but Sansui is the one to blame for using this orange film caps. :angel: Also, I find restoring very entertaining.

I got a nice soldering station, a steady hand and a nice working table although am somewhat concerned about this. I soldered one PS cap so far and it's working fine in my AU-717 but let's call it beginners luck. :D I got 4pcs of 5pf and 8pcs of 3pf PS caps. Only ceramic caps go this low. (not...

Yes, polystyrene. They're quite hard to get and I would have to turn to eBay...and most of the money spent will be on shipping. I'm really sad that Sansui cut the production costs on them. Not sure if you're implying somebody else replaced it or you didn't notice the change. Take a closer look...

I have a G99X that's been waiting on the table for a few months now. Poor fella got a bruise or two during shipping and did not play very happy from the first minute. After a little persuasion, he started singing happily. Then I tried to dial in the offset and bias but I slipped and touched the...

UPDATE: I found the culprit on the protection board. It's not the relay...for some reason, positive terminal on L-CH is not connected to PCB. Upon closer look, I noticed the solder looks cold/broken so just had to switch it to B speakers. Although, the amp was beautifully wrapped with...

Greetings AK folks, A few days ago I've purchased this fine looking G99X that was listed as "technically very good but headphone out is not working". 100% positive feedback on ebay and big wish of acquiring one made me click buy now. Well, you've guessed it... the seller wasn't sincere and here...

I've recently acquired mentioned Sony to see what's the fuss about. Sony ES series was very popular in Germany back in the days so ads today are full of them and they're quite affordable. Mine is black with wooden side panels and NEW sticker on the front. :D Inside was pretty clean with minimum...

So you're advising that I disconnect the DAC from "main in" and proceed setting bias and offset with amp in this setup? Correct me if I'm wrong but selector and volume do not play a role in this configuration.

Well, I don't know where to start from... probably from the fact that both channels play now. But only if I separate preamp and plug source into "main in". :D Well, I've tried this before all the fixes and I had crossed out the preamp and power supply because I had to start from the obvious...

Many thanks to all the folks in here, especially @petehall347 ! Replaced the C01 (100pf) with the first ceramic cap I could find and it plays loud and clear now. (will replace that with polystyrene as soon as I get my hands on one) Unfortunately still no luck with power supply board. Took it...

I'll search around, although I doubt it. Still have to find the culprit on power supply board.

Croatia (EU). Mouser was choice but smallest they have is 150pF

Removed the R02 leg and measured again: C01 Capacitance: unmeasurable; Resistance 0,5 ohm. Hope it's the only thing wrong. Should I go with a PP or C0G cap?

Well, I ran a quick check and here are the results. Nonworking driver: C01 (capacitance: unmeasurable; Resistance 0,5 ohm) Working driver: C01 (Capacitance: 160 pf; Resistance: unmeasurable) Everything measured on PCB.

The saga continues... Episode IV: The last transistor Dear audience. I've gone completely immune to mono by now. Nevertheless, my war against it is still not lost! I ran my multimeter across every single component on the nonworking channel, and than compared it to the working channel...

I've checked power supply voltages in the upper corners and both sides return 36V. Also checked the relay and both sides return 0V drop so I guess it's not the relay either. When measuring the voltages I reported before on amp boards I used the ground from amp. (ground connections 02 and 03...

BIG UPDATE: Tried switching power supply lines from non working to working channel so I can rule out the power supply. Unfortunately, I've got no sound so there must be something wrong with the power supply. Then I tried switching power supply wires one by one from working channel to non...