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Im looking for a new universal collar mount (believe h4) for my Marantz 6300. The previous owner tried some DIY soldering and melted the plastic that the connector pins and springs slide in and out of to make contact with the head shell. So now I can’t get a solid connection. My first thought is...

This is probably a stupid question but have you downloaded the schematics for your particular model? They should be pretty easy to source and will help answer your questions. You may have also done this already but I would start with the power amp, tracing the continuity back to the input source...

I have finished recapping my preamp. It's was a pretty easy task. I am now working through recapping the Nikko Alpha 220 power amp. There are two caps left but they are located on the power transistor PCB under the heat sink. It would take me a lot of effort and a couple hours to desolder all...

I just completed the restoration of a SK29. Here are a couple links you will need: https://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/default.asp This is where you will learn everything you need about the changer. You will need parts and manuals. This guy has them...

Thanks for the advice. I pulled the pot from the unit and you were right! There are tiny screws. I loosened them and sprayed some DeoxIT and worked the knob about 50 times. Hopefully that does the trick.

Thanks. I did a regular search on google and didn't really turn up much. I'll try the advanced function and see what I get. The most "extreme" I got on upping the capacitance was going from a 16v cap to 35v.

Thanks for the detailed response! The vast majority of the caps I selected are Panasonic FM series caps with a 105*C rating. The rest (ones that I could not find Pana FMs for) are audio grade Nichicons. I may hold off on the film caps then if the benefits aren't that noticeable.

Next question. I know you can generally go up in volts on electrolytic caps but what about film? I want to replace the polyester caps with metalized polypropylene caps but the lowest voltage I can find is like 250. The originals are all 50v. Is this an issue? Parts express is the only place I...

Thanks. That's what I figured. The pcb and attached components are all really spaced out nicely so I won't worry about it. At first glance it doesn't appear to have screws, but I'll remove it from the unit to take a closer look. I may just have to get a replacement from Alps like ivandezande...

Thank you! I'm looking really forward to hearing the speakers now that I've replaced the x-over capacitors.

Sorry I started my own. Thanks!!

Hello. I am pretty new with rehabbing vintage gear but recently (and successfully) recapped a Marantz 6300 with no issue. My question is, I just got a free Nikko Alpha 220, Beta 20, and Gamma 20 set. I know they aren't amazing but free is a pretty good price. I'd like to do a recap of the preamp...

I didn't want to start a new thread as this one seemed like a decent choice. I am pretty new with rehabbing vintage gear but recently (and successfully) recapped a Marantz 6300 with no issue. My question is, I just got a free Nikko Alpha 220, Beta 20, and Gamma 20 set. I know they aren't amazing...

Here are a few pics. It's a shame I couldn't salvage the original finish, but it was too far gone. All that's left is installing the preamp and main amp and it's all finished. I also included a couple shots of the original piece and the underside of the changer after I restored it. If...

I know this is an old thread but could you please explain the o-ring dampening at the 3rd and 5th harmonics? Do you have a picture of where the o-rings are placed? Thanks!!

Thank you! I'm sure I'll have more questions.

Congrats on the new console! I am nearing the end of my restoration of a SK29M. When I first picked up the piece I thought it was a semitransparent stain topped with a poly coat of sorts. I was wrong. I stripped and sanded the whole thing and found the main pieces (top and sides) do have a...

Could you tell me which cap you purchased to replace the original C807? Mouser only seems to have 47uF/25v not .47uf listed on the site. One more very, very ignorant but important question. Are the values listed on the caps VAC or VDC? Don't want to screw that up. UPDATE: I found a 0.47uF...

Thanks. I have the version 1 motor, but looking at your thread I think my unit is made up of different versions based on your pics and labels (mines dated April 23,1976): Motor vers 1 Power supply vers 2 Bayonet Vers 2 (brass colored) Tonearm vers 1? This is the only not sure. I think it's 1...

This is slightly off topic but I am too, in the process of restoring a 6300 and can't figure out how to get the bottom motor cover off. I've cleaned all the switches and pots I can get to but I want to also clean the two main speed control pots on the motor itself. Any advice on how to get to...

This is likely a dumb question so pardon my ignorance, but I am looking to put together a mid-high end setup and am looking at pairing a Rega RP3 (or RP2) with a pair of KEF R300 bookshelf speakers and an integrated amp. I really love the look and sound of vintage amps and was wondering if a...

My preamp has two Motorola branded 12ax7a tubes. I haven't had them tested yet but am betting on at least one being bad. Does anyone have recommendations on suitable replacements? I've researched and have found them ranging in price from $11 to $1,200. This Motorola Console isn't some hi...

Thanks. I tried GooGone today and it actually cleaned a lot more of the stain than I was expecting. I've never heard of goop but I'll look into it.

I am in the process of restoring a 1960 stereo console and am having trouble with cleaning the 50+years of dirty hand grime/grease/oil on the control knobs and faceplates. The pieces are both painted plastic (for the knobs) and painted metal (for the faceplates). I don't want to scrub them too...

I switched the RCA plugs and as predicted, the dead channel flipped to the right side. I also noticed I get a bit of "crackle" when turning the volume up or down on the preamp too.