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I wrote an update on sregor's comment but wanted to again thank you for your assistance. I was able to eliminate the popping by reducing the capciatnce of c907 as I wrote in my update. This was my first Sansui restoration but my fifth overtime and have never had to reduce a capacitor's value...

As a follow-up, I reduced C904 from its original value of 100uf/50V finally to 47uf/63V to eliminate any popping when the unit was powered down. I tried a variety of other values at the 100uF level none of which completely eliminated the popping. I don't have any caps with capacitance between...

I will try reducing C904 value and see how that works. Thanks for your help and explanation.

I assume you are talking about C904 and possibly reducing it from 220uF? Originally, it was 100uF/50V. I can try it but I am wondering if taking it back to 100/50 is not going to increase the risk of popping when it closes?

Ok. I am looking at the 4 pins and not the "coil" (maybe not the right terminology still). Thanks for setting me straight!

Thanks so much for your help with this issue, it is most appreciated! I made the changes you suggested. Which were: C901 was changed from 100uF/35V BP to 47uF/25V Nichicon MUSE C903 was changed from 220uF/25V to 470uF/63V UKL C904 was changed from 470uF/63V to 220/63 UKL I also reset the...

Back on the restoration of my SEVEN even after a bit over a year off for various reasons. Mostly documented earlier "https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sansui-seven-questions-and-possible-restoration." When I quit working on it earlier, I had just finished the tone board. I had...

Back on the restoration of my Seven after a bit over a year off for various reasons. When I quit working on it earlier, I had just finished the tone board. I had tested it and it was working well, no issues. I had rechecked that the “output balance” and “current alignment” were within the limits...

Thanks Pete!

I recently ordered a replacement relay for my Sansui 7 from Mouser. I thought I was ordering the right one MY4 24V DC which is what I received however the pins are too thick as seen in the photo. Did I order the wrong "type". I find the info on these confusing. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I bought a pair of these speakers several years ago for $89 around Thanksgiving from Best Buy. I think they go on sale quite a bit. I also bought the upgrade from GR Research at that time it was around $300. I think at that time the upgrade kit was an OK deal as it included all high quality...

Well, I am no expert but I guess my first question is did you replace the relay?

Thank you Sir! Next time read the user manual rather than the SM. Or better yet read both! To test removed both speaker fuses. Already had attached speakers and a CD player to the AUX input. Started up the CD. Turned unit on. Had to turn the Volume up more than I wanted but the speaker lights...

So regarding the so-called speaker fuses. Does that mean that if I remove one or both of the "speaker fuses" that the indicator light will still not come on? I replaced the speaker fuse lamps with new ones (same voltage, 25V and amperage, 90mA) and if I remove either or both fuses the lamps do...

Thanks Tom. Good advice. They do need to be cleaned and best replaced.

Thanks again for your help! After rereading your first post I was able to figure out how to do it. I am a little slow at times. I had to do something similar on the Sansui Seven I am working on but the SM showed how to connect the leads to the fuse holders. So, I set the centre voltage first at...

Thanks for your reply. It is very much appreciated! Glad to hear the the fading of sound when turned off is OK. Also, easy enough to skip the mylar and add some thermal compound. Good explanation on that. However, I am not clear on how to place the MM probes to adjust the bias. Here is what I...

While waiting for new bulbs I decided to pull the Power transistors (from Main Amp Unit (F-1061) for testing and what I assumed reapplication of thermal compound. As noted in an earlier thread on this unit, the 4 power transistors (TR809-812) are all Hitachi 2SC1030 (NPN) not the 2SD180 or...

Earlier I created a thread which was a question regarding the model of the 350 receiver I have from a friend to see if I can fix some problems with the volume and overall sound quality. Here is the link to that thread: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?members/day4201.261916/. Now I am...

As noted in my opening post, I received this unit from a friend who is the original owner. It was purchased new in Texas thus explaining the audio store sticker on the back. It was serviced once many years ago by a service shop in Colorado. After so many years he was unable too recall why. I...

Yes, it has 4 positions only, no extra position.

Interesting. As I recall the owner said it had been either "repaired or worked on" a long time ago. I am curious about the Bell Electronics Co. sticker on the back. There is some evidence of possible cap replacements on the Equalizer/Tone control board (F-1079). A number of the caps have a black...

Thanks for the info. I had to take another look at it but I don't see anything really different about it. Attached are full front and back photos. The panel lights are rather dim right now. I have just started cleaning it up including the switches. Like I said it has some issues.

Have a 350 receiver to work on for a friend. It says 350 on the front but the back label says 350L. Anyone have any idea what the L stands for? I am just beginning to learn about this unit which has some issues but I will start a different thread for that. Thanks.

350,819 090532,DAY4201