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Before removing the idler wheel try cleaning the rubber surface of the wheel with alcohol and or rubber renew. Clean the track under the platter where the wheel makes contact with it with alcohol well also. Once the platter is down on the spindle, it pushes the idler wheel against the motor...

Yeah the dynaco label is screwed into the front. Just unscrew that by hand the the grill should pop out with some gentle prying with a butter knife etc

Bozaks are amazing speakers, especially for classical music. Surely some local audiophile will gladly come collect from you if you list them on your local Craigslist. Of course, a bit of Howard’s and an hour of time would likely turn them into much nicer pieces, and you get actual money for...

I don’t use cable lifters but make sure my amp is higher than my speakers and my cables are real short so the music flows downhill. I find I can listen to more music in less time!

When the power cable was replaced, was it upgraded to a 3 prong model? If so, that could just be the issue. Try using a 3 prong adapter to eliminate the ground and see if it goes away.

Yes when operating correctly, they are awesome .

Yes, a fully refurbed dual 1019, 1218 or 1229 will crush almost anything under $2000 in terms of sound quality. And, it’s automatic.

Good call keeping it. Empires are so good they exceeded the ability of the instruments used to measure them at the time.

They are always pleasant to listen to, the A25s. Well balanced, musical, and non-fatiguing.

Those Nikkos from that era sound amazing, like a little McIntosh!

Potato potato potato?

I bought 301’s in high school, had the for about 30 years. Set them up in the corners of a room and they sound much larger than they are. Withou the corner set up, they lose a lot of their luster.

Besides using deoxit on the switch I’d use it clean the terminals. I’ve had oxidized connections cause dropouts even when things looked clean.

Soprano sax can get annoying real fast.

Great sounding unit. Fantastic preamp.

I’ll try running a jumper from the top plate and see what happens.

I’ve deoxed the rcas and all headshell contacts and no joy.

Oops I mistyped. It’s a 10h not a 10f.

I had a precious 10f and I don’t recall this strap and it didn’t hum.

The hum happens once the mute switch has been inactivated when the tonearm is over the record. The strap goes from the metal part of the headshell. On the old cart, it connected to one of the cart mounting screws but it was a metal cart. All the modern carts have plastic in that area so there’s...

Hey I picked up a classic elac 10f, it had a early sixties cart on it with an all metal body, and the headshell has what appears to be a ground strap attached to one the cart mounting screws. The cart was a goner, so I put in a more modern one, but it has a plastic body so no place to attach...

Chavez Ravine-RyCooder only a half hour documentary but Ry wrote a good hours worth of great music for it that stands on its own merit.

I just recently happened upon a 517 in the electronics recycle bin at my local dump! Needed a little deoxit on the controls and one knob was loose and simply needed tightening! It’s a really really good sounding amp. I’m sure the 717 will be even better.

Personally I only like the sound of new cables. Once they been played a few hours they start to sound stale and I have to change them out, like a pro tennis player switches racquets every seven games