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Am I doing this right? By put a jumper p1v7 & p1v9 there is no left or right balance anymore, i.e. both speakers will play no matter if I turn the balance all the way to the left or right. Without the jumper, there is a separation of L/R. This is what I observed thru hearing. At this point I...

Gadget, I have replaced R37 (2K2) & C39 (33uF/16v). R39 on mine is the 330ohm resistor and still is original as I checked it still within spec. R63 on mine is 15K and was replaced because I thought it out of spec when I checked it in circuit. Max, Thanks for the input. If I manage to make it...

Gadget, Please be patient with me as I am a bit unclear about this quick and dirty check, so I am going to use a portion of schematic from the SG-205 for clarification purpose. Do I put a jumper from pin 1 of v7 1/2 and v8 1/2 OR v7 1/2 and v9 1/2 together? Do I just observe (hearing) their...

Yes I did basic continuity and resistivity test on the output transformer they seem to be working but a tad LR uneven (may be my digital voltmeter not accurately enough). Cleaned the switches, connectors and the tube socket too. It did improve the clarity of sound. I also just replaced about 8...

OK, here is the update! the closet schema I got for this receiver is from a mix up of the Pioneer SX-34, SM-Q300, SM-G205. It use 2x diodes as rectifier, 2x 100uF/150v, 2x 40uF/350v and 3x 20/350v as filter caps. The 4x2SB175 transistor are used in the Phono section. The 2x 12AU7 are used in the...

I have seen Transwave TW-30 and TW-50 receivers and those are similar to some Pioneer tube receivers. So far nothing show up for this receiver. Tubes line up are 4x6GW8, 2x6AU6, 2x6BA6 2x12AU7, 1x12AX7 and an eye-indicator tube + 4x2SB175 transistor. I am looking for a schematic diagram to...

2 birds in one day. This time while prepare to button up the 680, since the 580 need to re-solder back the swapped tuner, may as well clean it & replace those noisy transistors and investigate the SK0029 modules for dead channel. Swap them around the problem switched. So another dead SK0029...

have you tried pacificsemi dash usa dot com. I got mine pair from there and seem to be good.

:banana:! I did it! replace the 4 0.047uF ceramic capacitor around the PA3001 C118, C119 , C121 and C123, FM is on even in Stereo.:banana: Should have listen to Watthour few post earlier. Nothing to do but, button this unit up...

Back at this last night, as yesterday I got a freebee SX-580, with dead channel, with good FM Stereo reception. After review the schematic, I am sure that the front end boards are the same. So I (painfully) move the 580 front-end to the sx-680. Same problem as before, so it's not the front-end...

I think the problem must be at the front-end FM. I put a spare HA1125 in place of the PA3001A and make no difference, weak statics FM stations. I don't have equipment nor experience to do FM tuner adjustment so I will have to put this receiver aside again.

Trust me, Merlynskis' advices are valuables. I did a major surgery on another SX-980, worse condition than yours. And after adjustment of the offset, it is working beautiful.

double checked on Q7/Q8 pin-out. R120 100K checked. Replaced C122 4.7uF/50v. Not check on the Ceramic C121 though. Took few voltage reading on P3001A Pin1, 2, 3 all were about 1.9v instead of 2.1v. pin 6 were actually 5.6v. What weirdly is when hook onto pin1, while the switch to FM and muting...

Last night I was at this receiver again,to tackle the problem with the LEDs indicator, none are working. Turn out the MZ-061 is at fault. Replaced it and LEDs are lit up (Except FM Stereo). While at it I realized that I had put 4.7uF for the C301/C302, thus pull them out and replace with...

Here is the culprit

Hi all, I am back at this receiver. During this time a have acquired a signal tracer (Eico 147A) and use its audio tracer to concentrate around around Q503/Q504 and Q301/Q302. Audio signal from Drain and Source for both Q503&Q504 are close to balance (by listening) but imbalance after Q301 and...

Thanks for the info Manfred/Lini. Not sure what symbols to check though.

as the title asked, for safety reason. I have a 300W 110v/220v (both output voltage) converter.

Everyone is correct. Here's my take.. Without LoFi, there will be no Mid-fi. Without MidFi there will be no HiFi. Since no one come up with this yet, without Hifi there will be no UltraFi (borrow from TV definition)...evolution...

Thanks for the heads up Chazix, I haven't use it yet. That's said, how is it different beside the fuses and center tap. KR-2300 go thru D7&D8 to get 47V while KR-3200 go thru Dk2 and Dk4 to get 47V? That's what I understood and think I got a suitable substitude. 68VCT seem to be excessive for a...

Chazix, Basically if I have a 34VCT Secondary (where each half is about 17V) would this work (It also have ~6V secondary for the bulbs) ?

Bring back this thread to confirm the following: I found a KR-3200 manual for similar spec with KR-2300. Does this meant the combine, red-red is 34VAC or ~15VAC for each red, rather than 64VAC or 32VAC for each red? If so I may have found my replacement TF. Thanks. KR-3200 KR-2300

Big thanks Merlynski for your help on diagnose this ailing patient. I have decided to put this receiver aside, before frustration get the better of me and destroy it. . No matter what I tried haven't make any progress. I have tried put the jumper in the FETs, new pair of FETs in, old pair...

correction: didn't realize speaker B was depressed, while testing speaker A. Retest with speaker A depressed, L-Out .0935VAC, right 0.03VAC.

I was back at it. Here are the finding +C507 & +C508 (4.7uf) the sames +C511 0.025VAC, +C512 0.030VAC +C301 0.25VAC, +C302 0.48VAC STK Left Pin1 0.35VAC, right 0.029VAC -C311 0.935VAC, -C312 0.030VAC L-out (Speaker post) 6.5VAC, R-out 4.7VAC