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Did Did you ever figure out what you needed? Here is a great video that explains how these work as they are much different than a majority of other turntables:

It seems a lot of these heavily electronic turntables are really starting to reach a period of issues and failure. If you are lucky you realize a lot of the issues are resolved by simply recapping the turntable BEFORE it causes a chip (microprocessor) failure. Right now I have a Denon DP-51F...

Here you can see the stick and the new socket with the bulb in it: Now for the new socket and the LEDs I used 5/64” diameter heat shrink. I got it from a kit I bought at Harbor Freight. Perfect fit for all of this: https://www.harborfreight.com/127-piece-heat-shrink-tubing-set-67524.html Now...

Okay… I think I have a bit to add here. Bare with me, but hopefully this is useful/helpful to others. First, make sure the unit is not plugged in. Anything you do is at your own risk. Anything I mention is for entertainment purposes only. I am not an expert. First let’s talk caps. These are 3...

So these power caps are 3 pin as I suspected, but it looks as if only 2 pins are used? So we only need a 2 pin cap correct? I’m having a hard time finding a good replacement even for a 2 pin. The two pins are 15mm spacing and between each pair it is 10mm lead spacing in case anyone else needs...

Did you ever figure out what the lead spacing is? Also, do you recall if it is a 2 pin or 3 pin cap? I thought all of these were 2 pin, but looking at the back of the board it looks like a 3 pin. The schematic leads me to believe it is a 2 pin however. I just want to be sure I get the right...

Welp…. Hope nobody minds that I continue hijacking this thread. Finished the bottom woofer reform job. I just used the foam surround glue to glue the original dust cap back on. Seems stable. The pics of when it was still wet. It dries clear, so no worries there. I still need to order gasket...

Progress pics to show how its going. Curious of anyone else did a bead of glue along the edge of the foam and the cone and then use a finger to glide across the bead to help get a better seal and then just clean off the excess glue? Right now as I look it drying it doesn't darken the woofer as...

Sorry to raise this thread from the dead, and I read a ton of that other massive thread... I had a couple questions if you don't mind me bending your ear and picking your brain. Obviously it was a while ago, so hopefully you remember some of this? How and where did you cut the dust cap for the...

I have the 2.3TLs and I find it is very room dependent. Based on where I sit right at about 10ft from the speaker line and with the left channel speaker having to be just a smidge short of 3ft of the side wall, I need mine just short of 5 feet apart. I started wider at 6ft+ thinking I would go a...

sorry for raising the dead, but was stumbled upon this thread and this is the most bonkers inaccurate thing I have ever read. This is far beyond subjective. I put my SRS 2.3s against the wall and still don’t get boomy bass for starters. How is it even possible considering how the bottom end is...

Yeah they are pretty great for being such an affordable option. I have paid more for speakers a lot less capable and that simply didn’t sound as good.

Yeah, they are sealed and I figure bracing would be a go to move. Definitely thin particle board. I just have to believe no 15” is going to be at its best in a cabinet that small. I started looking at what it takes to build a crossover network from scratch and it seems to require a lot of...

So I managed to procure some KLH 915b speakers as part of package deal. really didn’t have any interest in them, but it was all or nothing. Figured I would maybe just sell them and recoup a couple bucks. I was expecting them to be way worse than what they are. Mids and bass response are actually...

A couple of before and after pics. Wiring was correct and was just in need of replacing the caps. I went with Jantzen 4.7uF Z-standard Capacitors based on some huge ratings list some guy created. Replaced the old wiring terminal with a nice bonding post terminal. Swapped out the old Kimsul paper...

I think he is in the right neighborhood... I saw those also. Im in MN so a little ways away. It looks like they can pull $1k -$1200 pretty easily for one pair. It's going to be hard to find some one with the cheese, space, and desire to have 2 pair lol.

Thank you for the tip! Much appreciated!!!

Bump. Anyone know where I can find the schematics? Really want to make sure I have it wired right. I already ordered replacement caps in hopes that helps also, but don’t want to put them in until I’m confident I have it all wired right.

If I am matching this right I would think on the front of capacitor box I need 4 capacitors soldered together to get 2.4khz high pass? Right now it technically is only attached to one 5uf cap which is 2Khz. 10uf would be way too much dropping it down to 995hz and above that will pass to...

Just unsoldered and measured quick. 15.3 ohms or 14.5ohms depending on which leads I use to measure… which is odd lol

Not yet. Want to make sure wiring is correct first. I can technically measure the tweeters final output on the crossover? I’m guessing not since it is probably parallel with the other drivers?

Here are some other examples I have found and clearly don’t jive with what I have.

Hi guys, a couple things to unpack here. Started with finally getting around to starting a restore by first opening it up to see what we are dealing with. Replace a couple wires that had dry rotted after seemingly been replaced already since it wasn’t orange or green wire. Once I did that I...

I appreciate the quick response! I had a pair pop up locally and while they look cool, there is a few red flags. One most notably is that there is no info on them other than you and maybe one other posting about them here.

So how did they sound??