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Your the man! That was the problem :thmbsp: That stupid slide bar has never been touched and I looked at it prior to starting this project. The way that it is marked with the arrows on each side, you cannot tell whether the slide should be up for 60Hz or down where the number is located...

I put a mark on an album, used a stop watch and counted the number of revolutions in one minute. Prior to performing all this work, I listened to an album and determined it was running slow. OK, but why is the strobe not able to lock on once I set the speed correctly? It locked on when it...

I have just completed an overhaul of most of the electronics on the board which includes the input electrolytics, PNP and NPN transistors, and ICs. I also purchased an original Thorens belt from Acoustic Sounds. :thmbsp: I set all the voltages according to the spec, and working with 33RPM, I...

Thanks Graham. I knew that there was supposed to be tension, but I did not know it was that much. The guy from Acoustic Sound said that the Thorens belt he has works on his table which is a TD125 MKII. In the mouth of two or three witnesses, every word may be established. George

I have been reading a few postings and have read recommendations made for the purchase of an original Thorens belt. Based on all the information given, I am taken that recommendation. I went to site that sold the Thorens belts and found that they mentioned the TD125, but not the TD125 MKII. I...

Already replaced both input filters since one was actually shorted pulling down the supply. I replaced all the caps and adjusted all the speed outputs. I do not remember two fuses? There was two fuse holders, one for 115V and the other for 230V. Is that what you are referring to? Did I miss...

Jim, I have found what creates the noise, but I am not sure why. It has something to do with the new belt I purchased. When I put my old belt on, the noise is gone, it is very quite. The difference between the two is that the new one is tighter and meets the requirements that Joel had in...

I will take all your advices and begin to try to narrow this down. The first thing I will do is put my old belt on and try to see if this goes away. I do have a question. If the strobe says that the platter is rotating at 33 1/3 RPM, how is it that when I play an LP, it is playing to...

It sounds like a "rumble" low frequency type noise. When you are looking at the strobe, the noise can be seen as jitter by the stobe. George

I applied 2-3 drops on the top and bottom. George

I was able to oil the top and bottom of motor using a needle as suggested, but the noise has not went away. The most confusing thing is that it ONLY does it on 33 1/3 RPM! At both 16 and 45, it is completely silent! AARGGHH. Any suggestions? Should you have any up and down play on the motor...

Thanks for all the excellent suggestions. I will follow your suggestions explicitly when oiling the motor. I will let you know of the results. George

It has been almost 15 years since I last played it. I did a bearing test, and it rotated for 2.5 min. I just put on a new belt which was as a 21.1in. I measured around the platter and spindle using flat ribbon. It was 22.2 in. The problem was a slow platter, ie the LP did not sound correct...

Jim, I also have a TD125 MKII turntable. It has been almost 15 years since I last played it. I did the bearing test, and it rotated for 2.5 min. I just put on a new belt which was as a 21.1in. The problem was a slow platter, ie the LP did not sound correct even though my strobe said it...

Thanks Terry. I took it apart and found that it was just as you said. I was able to strip the rubber sealant around the wires and one of the sides came apart. It broke about 1/8" away from underneath the bulb. I was able to solder the wire back on, put shrink tubing about 3/16" on each wire...

On my C-28 mode selector switch, the red indicator that lights up as you move the switch throughout the selection modes (stereo, R+L->R, etc) intermittently lights up red. When it is lit, under any mode, it stays lit. When I begin to move it, for example, between two selection points and back...

Are there any markings on the outside of the can designating what the capacitances are? Are there markings on the bottom (square, triangle and half-moon) where the lead frames are that you attach the wires to? What are you trying to determine? George

Terry, Do you have any idea on how to shine the capacitor case? When I tried a metal polish in a small area, it looked like it was bubbling up paint? I did not go any further. George

Thanks Murray. I hope it might help any to spurn them on in keeping Mac equipment running for many more years of happy listening! :music: George

Thanks Glenn. What do you mean by a sticky? George

For many that have helped me getting started again with my Mac gear, I thought that I would help others who might have a desire to stuff those old power supply triple cap cans. As you all are aware, those alum electrolytics cannot be purchased. Since my C-28 required rebuilt cans and with the...

Terry, I want to keep the "look" of those caps on my C-28 and as far as I know, those caps are not available anymore. I know that both C301 and C302 are multiple tap caps. I have heard that you can basically "clean out" the can and put together a series of capacitors to replace the current...

Thanks David. I have not replaced any of the input caps except the cap on the base of the transistor that outputs the 14V. Another thread explains the problem that I am chasing.

The actual problem that has caused me concern was that when I had the unit playing I smelled what is burning electronics and I shut off the unit. I could smell that something was wrong. I opened it up and found that R305 that drivers the base of Q302 which is the pass transistor for the 14V...

Do those emitter resistors get so hot that they will actually discolor the metal around them? Another question I have is why are they getting hot with no loads connected? Is there a reason for that? Also, on the schematic it shows the output from one of the taps after the bridge to be...