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Hi there, Yes, those things are becoming seriously collectable again, and I quite like Sanyo products of that era. Seem to remember doing one of those in the deep distant past, but not sure. But on to ways to fix yours, I can't remember what sort of mechanism it had, it may be a flywheel assist...

Haven't seen a CX-211 in the wild, but you are right, a meter, in fact any part apart from the front panel parts and the case will be the same as a CX-210, the 1 on the end of the model number simply refers to it being black. Usually once a VU fails like that it is very hard to get a fix, they...

Hi, It's been a long while since I have done on of those decks, but I have worked on many of that mechanism. I'm not too sure on the spring you mention, a picture will help here. What I am thinking though is that it is not actually this spring but indeed a clutch in the auto-stop mechanism. This...

You're right, very hard to get focus. Maybe a shot of the mechanism out of the deck (front and rear) might help someone identify it and point to a source of spares. You may have to remove the spindles from the deck and keep them as a reference to find a replacement. Cheers Tony

Hi, Pretty sure that there is (was) another tyre on the capstan itself, been a while since I have come across one of these so my memory is a little hazy on it. If so, that will be your problem. These very small tyres tended to completely disintegrate. You will then most likely have to make one...

I have never seen that in all my years of repairing decks, have you got a photo? Sanyo tended to use their own mechanisms, or at least ones that were not used by others. I would have over 100 different spindles here, not that shipping is likely to be an option anyway, but I'm sure that with the...

Also with the sound, the wires connecting to the head can fail at the solder joint point. These will simply need to be re-soldered. Alternatively the other end of the head leads where they connect to the PC board may also need to be re-soldered as these joints also can go dry.. Hopefully it is a...

Hi, just by exercising those controls you may well have hit the nail join the head. Cleaning them should finish it off. Some things come back to me in strange ways after a while. I remember having processor noise coming through in recordings in the '00s. The processor in your phone could be a...

Hi, Adjusting the bias is not going to help you here, it is for recording only, not playback. I second Warren's idea of cleaning the controls before anything else. $47 for a can is really expensive. This stuff is also really expensive in Australia, basically anywhere outside the states. You...

In my experience of Luxman decks of that age the grease will have gone all hard. You will have to work out what rubs against what (or what is supposed to!) and remove, clean, regrets with a very light plastic compatible grease or oil as required and then re-assemble. There may be an exploded...

From memory, start the first deck (assuming deck 1, the playback only deck) then press pause and then play on deck 2. When play is released at the end of the tape on deck 1, then the pause on deck 2 should release by a little internal lever.

There are various ways of measuring belts. One that a vendor puts up is this, http://www.studiosoundelectronics.com/beltmeas.htm I don't use these guys as I use a local supplier here, postage from the US is prohibitive for virtually everything, so I can't vouch as to whether they are any good...

Yep, your summation on the decks is correct. Depending on what is available in your part of the world (I don't know where you live, I assume the US given the brands of decks) the assorted kits might be the only option. The assorted kits might give you a size of belt that is close, but not quite...

Hi there, You have a lot to look at there, most decks you have I know, some I don't. I guess you are trying to do a more indie thing with recycled bits and pieces, whether you are starting with high quality clean sound, or whether you are going for something more, shall we say "organic". There...

The manual has them at 500uF. That being said they are coupling caps as Moving Ahead has observed. 500uF is simply not a modern "preferred" value. Not sure what mine has, it has originals, and I'm sure they will be marked as 500uF. This thread reminds me, I should get mine out again.

The A-350 was not particularly well regarded or sought after. Similar decks of this vintage and make were the A-450 and A-360. But the 350 is what you have so that is what you have to work with not one of the others. The 350 is a good starter deck with solid mechanics and is easy to work on...

With the optical interrupter it may simply be a case of cleaning the reflective surface on the reel table. As you say the deck has sat for a while, the reflectivity of this disc might not be what it needs to be. It usually has alternating bands of black and silver, that send (or don't send)...

First thing I would do would be to watch how it works, with it unpowered, turning the motor by hand, to see what moves against what. You may have something that binds at that point, either due to no grease, or grease that has hardened. There may be a lot that drives off this motor, especially...

Hi, You will need the proper headshell for that unit. Not sure if you could modify successfully a normal headshell to have that sort of angle at the socket, depends on your plastic working skills I guess and what you started with. I don't think you could get enough twist in the cartridge inside...

Hi, sorry I didn't see the earlier question. It's been a while now since I worked on this deck, and haven't seen one for a long time. Going through my old notes, which don't tell me everything, i would try to remove the mechanism first, this may involve removing the front panel and knobs too...

Pretty sure these units have a round magnet in the vicinity of the counter. This rotates, by the look of your video, the counter belt is fine as the counter moves. Next to this round rotating magnet there should be a glass reed switch, with a wire out each end. This could be faulty, over time...

Just a quick one, but worth checking... This deck has a timer switch on the front, can't exactly remember how it works, but i think it would interfere with FF and REW but not play or record. Just try this on the other setting before giving up.

A word of caution.. Before you get too involved and purchase any belts it would be wise to remove the mechanism from the deck and check something. On the bottom of the head there should be a tiny, usually white nylon, gear that is attached to the head, not usually visible from the cassette...

Hi there, From your photos it is the same mechanism as the SD-30 that I am working on, not quite same electronics, but from the same family. The eject levers down the bottom near the keys and up the side panel get gummed up and won't eject. You should be able to give it some help by manually...

Hi there, Just started work on an SD-30, might be an equivalent model for this part of the world. Getting back into decks again after a big break, so seems a good place to start, no big deal if I mess it us as it wasn't one of Marantz's best efforts (idler wheel right on the capstan doesn't...