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I actually tried to reuse the original leads, then I drew the line! Lol

I had some 1N4007's that I put to use. I know this was a little crazy, but hey, I liked being able to re-mount using the existing hardware and not have to change anything with the wiring and it was free! I pryed open the can and emptied the selenium plates and contacts. I then filed down the two...

Just powered this thing up for the first time on the bench. Bias running through the roof at about 50ma per tube. Rectifier is crap at -40V out! No more power until that gets rectified!

Thanks Drew. Makes sense. Yes NTE is sourcing and I’m more open to using their passives if they’re in conformance. The price difference is 10X so if these are of good quality and satisfy the criteria in makeup and specifications then I’ll try them.

I just found some datasheets for these and I don't know that the 6P14P, and -K versions will work. The max anode voltage is 300V? I'm confused on what's compatible in the list for a 7189. My amp is operating in the 350V range.

They come in all flavors, squeeze, spray, grease, dispense, you name it. the fader version is F100S-L2

I was looking at using the aerosol version of the F100. Do you use the liquid for "stuck" pots?

Wow, prices are nuts! I think I need another alternative, lol

Yes that's what I'm looking for. Any recommendations where?

I have some questions before I start diving into this amp and bringing it up to date. The schematics I have call for 41.5-44V for the 4 heaters (11V each). I see on here that voltages in order of 12V are being quoted post rectifier replacement. I will be checking when I start it up but I'm...

Ok, so are all of the 6P14P variants capable of plate voltages compatible with the 7189?

Now I'm contemplating which AX7's to pair with the 7189's. Since these are in the preamp section, I'd like to know the best pick for these as well. I see a lot of Amperex made in different parts of the world, NOS and supposedly "matched", on ebay. What to look out for? Thanks

What is the "-N" variant, I don't see it in your list. Great info, thanks.

Where can I get the quads? Thanks for all the great info. Kevin

I'm wondering if anyone has any input on the Tungsol 7189's? The re-issue's are pretty pricey, it seems like if it's a Russian tube it's a Russian made tube. Are the SovTek's the one to stick by and ignore the rest? I have zero experience with the various tube brands right now. Thanks

Nice DIY, that's something I would do at a fraction of the cost. I just looked up the Hayseeds for over $200 a set.

Thanks, so you would recommend replacing all the caps in the can, correct? Those have to be on the "bomb" list!

Hi, yes I do work on all of my own audio equipment and have an electronics background. The tubes all work fine and are original Telefunken and Amperex that I would like to hang on to while putting in another set for playing once I'm done. And yes I need a tube tester, kicking myself for throwing...

Hi, I just picked up my first tube amp and had done some perusing on the forums to see what others were doing for restoration. Typical is capacitors, bridge rectifier, etc. My dilemma is, this is a working unit with all original parts and never biased or taken apart! What a testament to...

Can you tell me if these are glued together? I believe you took apart SP1353's, I have two I want to check and would like to know how you dismantled them. Thanks Kevin

Agreed, I just wanted as thin a layer as possible. When I see "craft" glue I have trouble wrapping my arms around using it for this application. If the adhesion is strong and I can still snap it apart later, that's what I'm looking for. Kevin

Thanks, I can thin it with water 1:1 as well if I want to get a nice thin layer. Did you use as is or thinned? Kevin

Thanks for that info. In my case the diaphragm and coil are intact and in excellent condition. I just want to refresh the ferro and had to separate the PCB/phenolic layers from one another and from the metal. What did you use to reassemble that part of the tweeter?

I'm changing the ferrofluid in my SP1240's and was wondering if you used super glue to reattach the phenolic to metal when re-assembling. I'm going back and forth on different adhesives, the super glue may set up too fast. You also want to be able to service the tweeter again. Looks like a very...

Friggin awesome!