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Had an incandescent lamp burn out in my SX-1280 recently so I decided to take the plunge and upgrade them to LEDs. The wedge LEDs are size T10 5-SMD. Ideally 8 volts but you can get away with using 12 volt car LEDs, though in my experience these look extremely cold compared to the soft white...

Awesome thanks for the replies guys.

The SX 80 series receivers have problems with the power switch levers physically breaking in half. I know because I've owned two different SX receivers that this has happened to, and there's an SX power switch on eBay right now with a broken stem. The switch itself still works, but replacement...

Suppose I have a 24-bit / 44.1kHz file that I want to normalize to 0 dB. Should I upconvert it (say to 88.2kHz) before increasing the volume, and then downconvert it back to 44.1kHz afterwards? Or is it better to just adjust the volume while staying at 44.1kHz?

Does anyone know of a good analog stereo parametric EQ I can get for my system? I'm having trouble finding them on the internet.

I've heard some horror stories about the SX-1980 having power supply issues, unobtainable parts, and in general being a huge pain in the ass to work on. Is the same true of the SX-1280?

I'm not necessarily looking for a receiver that sounds "better" because "better" is subjective. I'm looking for something clean and powerful, and the 1980's output is cleaner and more powerful than the 1250. To me, that means it is better.

Aren't the parts for the 1280 just as unobtainable as the 1980?

In what ways is the 1250 better?

I'm trying to decide between an SX-1280 and an SX-1980. Price and size are not an issue. I remember reading somewhere that the SX-1980 has power supply issues. Is that also true of the SX-1280? I read the SX-1980 puts out peaks upwards of 460 wpc. I have Pioneer HPM-100 speakers that are...

HPM 100, JBL 4320, or JBL 4310

No, they're the same driver.

I was actually hoping somebody could clue me in as to how the baffle is attached and sealed to the cabinet in the first place.

When I listen to the speakers with a mono source, it's the most noticeable. The mono image does not sound entirely focused straight down the center as it should...it sounds like its moving around a bit. I believe that mirror imaging the right speaker very well may correct it. I think the...

Thinking about cutting out the baffle board, flipping it around, refinishing it, then putting it back in the cabinet and resealing it. Obviously I want to do this to improve the imaging of my system. Has anybody done this before? Any tips you'd like to give me? Is there any reason this...

LOL. that might be one of the cheesiest things ive ever seen. i mean the concept of an ipod dock is already cheesy, but that thing just takes it over the top.

Buy another one dude...they only go for 4 or 5 hundred bucks in great shape...

I never understood how it was possible to enjoy listening to recorded music and NOT be an audiophile. That is what is crazy to me.

Nobody else can clarify? What sort of test tones did they use to arrive at the 100 watt rated / 200 watt max rating?

That's true, but my amp is capable of handling the impedance dips at those volumes without clipping...as in, it's not clipping out on current draw or the voltage rails when the HPM-100s dip down to 4 ohms or whatever their min. impedance is. The amp isn't the issue, I'm just referring to the...

the thing is that I frequently drive them at more than 100 watts/channel continuous and it sounds like theyre no where near starting to break up or distort...so I would have thought it would be 200 watts continuous max?

Power ratings on my HPM-100's say "200 watt Max, 100 watt rated". Does that mean a max of 200 watts continuous? Or 200 watts peak? :confused:

I hate your guts

I agree with the above poster. You should be able to figure out the problem pretty quickly if you do what he says.

AR3a's are good speakers