Search results

Well, I kinda been slowing down on the vintage stereo front. However, I sold the HD8 and A60, picked up a set of A70, another set of A150 (that I then gifted to a friend), and most recently a pair of VR970's for the theater room. These have all needed repair too.

Yeah, before I took a close look at the driver I thought there would be 2 voice coils, an upper and a lower. It appears that they are connected together with only 1 set of leads to connect to. Made it easy! Hopefully my Bose 1800 amp will have enough power for it.....

It's an interesting driver where there is an upper and lower voice coil that is used in an attempt to lower distortion.

Hi all! I have an old Velodyne HGS10 subwoofer. The amp is shot, which seems to be a common problem even after the amp is repaired. I am attempting to make use of it with an external amp and a Minidsp of eq'ing the low end roll off. It has a dual voice coil setup in a push pull configuration...

Well, if it's super important to you, one could always PM the poster and ask what's up.... Things get in the way, such as life, new stereo equipment, family, etc. Anyways I took it in for repair and it was (I was told) a bad op-amp. Replaced and she works like a charm!

It was told to me that they use 1 headlight on low beam for safety reasons. 2 headlights illuminated close together (like on a motorcycle) may fool some drivers that it's a car that seems farther away. At least that's my understanding...

I'm glad the deoxit worked out for you. I do think that the d5 and the f5 are both intended to be used on the pots and switches, not on transistors and circuit boards. We have a sticky here that reviews the proper use of deoxit and such...

My guess would be something like a heatsheild to protect the wood from hot components beneath. Probably don't "need" it, but wouldn't be a bad idea to replace. You could probably use some HVAC aluminum tape.....

With the lists available here, and if you have the ability to solder, why not refresh it yourself? I had one that the faceplate was in OK shape, but the case was missing a big chuck of veneer. I rebuilt it and was happy to have a rebuilt, reliable classic that sounded amazing, regardless of...

Awesome, thanks so much!

Hi all! I have a SX1010 that I'm in the process of refurbing. I've been using the rebuild list that is available here and it has been an amazing resource. I had one before that I sold foolishly and have missed it ever since. I have a few substitution questions as follows: On the muting...

As always, it pays to do your research. Checking at the fuses, I had the correct voltages. When I got to the dimmer board, I was missing voltage at pin 1. Did a continuity check between the fuse pin and pin 1 on the dimmer board and it checked ok. I ended up finding that the fuse holder was...

I have a 1010 that I've been bringing back from the dead. All I need now is the STV-3H I ordered from germany. For the meantime, I'm using one I made following others instructions using 3 uf diodes in series. Anyways, The hi/low/-20db, selector, and stereo lights aren't working. The dimmer...

Yeah, I realize that the voltage didn't test right, but it was higher than the 3h that I also tested, so I assumed 4h. I think I'll order some thermal epoxy and give the diodes a shot. Hopefully it will work out...

I have a SX-1010 that I bought (actually a 2fer deal) that didn't work. Upon opening it up, some work needed to be done (some to repair work already done). My question is that it has a STV3H horshoe diode attached to the right channel heat sink, and what I believe is a STV4H horshoe diode...

I have a sub that the amb blew up and took out the driver. It's really not worth fixing, but I thought having the variable frequency preamp portion could come in handy some day. I'm not the best with schematics, so I was hoping someone could take a look at these. I think I just need a 15-0-15...

I recently picked up 1 working, 1 non-working 1010. I would like to restore them both and I was going to use the most recent BOM I could find which is here http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=514144 When plugging in the parts into mouser, there were a few parts that are no longer...

My experience with noah was amazing. I had a nikko alpha amp I wanted fixed. Didn't really care how much it was going to cost. He had it for much longer than promised, but that wansn't a problem because his communication throughout was amazing. Further, despite spending many, many hours on...

Well, the main specification is the color you want. Then there is the MCD, or brightness. Then check the output angle. The wider the angle, the less likely you'll have "hotspots". I will probably use superbrightleds.com for mine. Works well because you have all the specfications listed...

Heres the pictures. It was hard to get proper pictures because it makes the meters look super bright and uneven. It looked great when viewed in real life. If there is anything else I can help out with, let me know!

On the G3000 I had, I soldered a full wave bridge across the ac powering the lights with a cap to provide DC for new led's. I believe the lower models in the G series used only 1 bulb for the dial, but I put in 2 leds (one on each side) that lit the dial much better. Also did 1 led for each...

I've got one that I use to power some Boston Acoustic A400's. I like it quite a bit, although some of the charm is those huge meters I think.

I have an original here that I made measurement off of. When I measured the bevel angle it was 30 degrees. Would a 45 degree bevel look any different? I don't know, but the one's i've made are 30 degrees. I also think that using 3/4 material is too thick and will mess up the bevel...

Not that I'm a tech or familiar with the 5050, but to me it looks suspicious that there are some doubled up resisitors just above the fuses. Between that and the incorrect fuses, seems like someones been doing some work in there.

I believe it's like some of the SAE preamps I've seen. You route the amplifier speaker output into the pre-amp (see the screws below the speaker binding posts) with the speakers wired to the binding posts. That way the preamp controls the switching between a/b sets.