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At the risk of being awarded zombie status, my first a7010 would refuse to record once in a while. I was always able to re-seat (wiggle) one of the relays to solve the problem. This week my newer one did not enter Play as the capstan motor was not turning. Remembering the relay issue from 30...

DC300A and an electronic crossover that failed at a gig. I connected a pair of floor monitors to the amp and the high and low outputs of the XO to the amp inputs. Ran an audio signal into the XO. turned it all on and got sound out of the low side, nothing from the high side. As I was rotating...

Yes, those are the ones made in Japan. The U.S. marketing department had no idea how to sell the good ones and then commissioned all the crappy ones with the piezo tweeters. The actual APM tweeters are very nice sounding, if a little on the fragile side.

That works with sealed-back mids that have access from inside the cabinet, but the LE-5 series are open-back, and are normally installed in a sealed sub-chamber. Known as a "flowerpot" or "paper cup".

Well, the paint is what's holding them in. With woofers you can sometimes get them to pop out by laying the cabinet face down and banging it a bit. Does not seem to work with tweets or mids, not enough mass to break the seal. A thin putty knife or other implement wedged under the edge of the...

Not bad considering how long they have been out of production. When I bought my pair directly from QSC in 2009 it came to $34.33 after tax and shipping.

Well, there is not supposed to be a straight section at all, rather it is normally conical. The idea is to allow the wave fronts to couple to the waveguide sooner, rather than constricting it through the length of the magnet. I suspect that the traditional tapered section of early CD's...

There was discussion at the time about eliminating the tapered section in front of the phase plug, which a bolt on driver can do, ala JBL's shift from 2" to 1.5" format. I found that by using the D220Ti-OMF I could get a shorter overall distance from the diaphragm to the throat of the waveguide...

I gather you think the cheap version was not worth the $? I'm pretty happy with the JBL version, last night was the first time I've had two of them working at the same time. (I'm using the Selinium D2500Ti on them with 116H-1 woofers.) Aside from the beaming at the extreme high end they sound...

I have one on my iPad called RTAudio that goes up to 1024 bins. The default is only around 10 IIRC, but the inApp price was not much for the upgrade. (512 bins is about 1/50 th if I'm converting correctly.) I have yet to find a way to load the mic cal file for the PE mic that plugs into my...

The LE-14 discussion starts on page 2 of the Econowave thread, with the final 900-3KHz decision on post 51, followed by Zilch's testing then the network appears on page 4, post #66. I'd link it, but those first few pages are pretty entertaining... As to the 6X6 WG, Zilch said as some point that...

PT stands for Progressive Transition. < That's all I know...

Thanks, I've settled on an 8X8 JBL waveguide and the neo version of the JBL/Selenium D220Ti, the JBL D2500Ti.

My mom had a pair of those on the mantle. I seem to remember the tweeters were green? Not bad, but couldn't take much volume.

Just a week or so ago I was debating eWaving my 100V's after getting one of them recovered with some new vinyl. It was either that or some home built boxes I stuffed an Advent 10 into paired with a JBL 027Ti, which didn't sound half bad. I ordered up a pair of JBL 8X8 waveguides and some JBL...

Just a little nit: When a wire breaks you don't get zero ohms, you get infinity ohms. Zero is a good piece of wire...

Check the receiver for DC output before connecting any new woofers to it. The first one may have fried both woofers and then the second didn't have any woofers to drive, Most crossovers do not block DC to the woofer, but will to mids and tweets. I once had a 15" JBL make smoke rings as I turned...

Well, It was indeed #2 that overflowed, so I removed some ferrofluid from it & #4 by sticking the absorbent paper that came with the fluid into the gap on one side, for just a second, it came out uniformly brown... As predicted, the curves sharpened up nicely. Next I will glue the loose wire up...

I put a pair of them on some H6512's last night and listened to them again on the Jack Giff XO to see if any changes were audible. I must say the previous day's "tizziness" was reduced, so _some_ HF changes for sure. No idea about viscosity, neither what it should be, nor what I put in...

OK, REW it is, let the learning curve begin... It's in there. Pretty low, but it was in there. I did 2.5 of them with the 150ml, after soaking out the dried up stuff that was in there. Interesting that some of the secondary bumps in the curve flattened out after adding the fluid. [Edited to...

Yeah, no sign of any ferrofluid in the gap. I have a 300ml tube, which one would be best to try it on? #4 for sure. I think 300ml was for a 1.75 dia. coil, maybe it could do two.

I have the UMM-6 and just downloaded the cal file. I did 'em all.

A proper fit seems pretty important. Here is what it looks like once the horn throat fits: The 6X6 has a small lip as I went a little over that size. The H6512 still larger than the driver, which is now 25mm diameter. The .zma files tell me something changed, perhaps for the better?

Looks like Kapton, has 2 layers (that I can see) of round wire. You know, This might have something to do with the response anomalies: Throat diameter is 22mm. Maybe adding a taper would help. I'd try shortening the snout to bring the phase plug up to the throat. Unlike the traditional driver...

Nice! Thanks for the visuals. Yup, I learned a few tricks from some real pro certified solderers back in the day... Mostly it was about noticing the loose wire at all, they were not sticking up like my pic, that was just a chance brush-against-it thing with the DMM set to beep mode. Last...