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So I unsoldered the speaker jacks so I could remove the relay covers. Cleaned them and put it all back together. Now my relays don't click unless I switch to the B speakers. But the good news is I don't get that choppy output so I'm gonna call it a win and not troubleshoot any further. Thanks...

It does have a relay that clicks over a few seconds after powering on. I've read with these receivers that the relays are a common problem, just didn't know what kind of problem they are. Here is a link to a 30 second recording I made. It's a file on my Microsoft OneDrive account...

Just picked up a Carver that sounds ok when I bought it, but now that it's home and hooked up, has some audio issues. I use it in the bedroom and play it low, and the right channel, and sometimes left channel, sounds bad. It's hard to describe. Sometimes it sounds muted, but sometimes sounds...

I finally got around to pulling the protection relay out and de-oxed it and scrubbed the contacts. This seems to have solved the issue!! Thanks for the help everyone.

Sometimes my right channel goes really weak/no audio. Also sometimes I notice hissing from the left channel. About a month ago I re-capped all the electrolytic caps. I thought the audio seemed brighter, but maybe that's the placebo affect. The above audio problems are still there. Anyone else...

I re-capped my CA-610II this weekend and seem to have broken a bulb filiment. I found this article and decided to give LED's a try. Across the lamps, I measure about 26vAC, not DC. I bought the service manual a few years ago and there is a 27vAC portion of the transformer that feeds this and...

Well I fixed my relay problem here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=603991 But now I have an issue with the left channel going in and out. It doesn't go out completely, but it's like the volume on that speaker was been turned down. It comes and goes. Maybe I have more...

Now I'm noticing my left channel sometimes is quieter than the right. Like it cuts out but not entirely.

That's the one! I don't mind the soldering, been doing it off and on for 20 years, but it's been kits where I put together something someone else designed or replace obvious bad components. Now, is there anything else I should look at replacing while I have it open? I noticed my left...

You should have told me to replace that one then! :)

WOOOOOOOOOOO!!! C576 did the trick, even with that 47uF in it's place. I took out C574 and measured it, it was dead on so put that one back. Thanks for your help!!

A side question, there are two other electrolytic caps I didn't replace, C574 and C576. These values are: C574 - 10uF / 25V C576 - 33uF / 16V Do you see a problem with replacing them with: C574 - 10uF / 50V C576 - 47uF / 25V

If you go back one page, you'll see what I measured there. 11mV at TP4 and 29mV at TP2. These values never stayed before and after the relay clicked.

Also what are the voltages I should be seeing at TP2 and TP4?

I have not replaced C576. I don't know about a cold solder joint, because of how consistent this issue is. I wiggled a lot of the components while I had it apart and didn't see any solder joints move. Relay has on top of it: FRL-264 D024/02CK

I just replaced those yesterday. I triple checked the polarity too. Do you still need pictures? Replaced 6 caps, 579-584.

If amp is on and I turn it off and back on, relay clicks after 4 seconds. The longer amp is off, the longer it takes for that relay. Off long enough, then that buzz comes back before the click.

It buzzes for like a minute or so from a cold power on. Then clicks. Yea the buzz does seen like low voltage. I can see the relay move when it buzzes.

I did that. I just did te other two incase that mattered. I did ground black lead to E and measured tp2 and tp4. Tp2 was 29mV, Tp4 was 11mV.

At power on and over the next minute or so, TP1 and TP2 rise to .029V, TP3 and TP4 rise to .011V. So millivolts. These readings don't change through the relay buzz and eventual throw. I don't know if it matters, but tried this with and without music coming in and at a few levels of volume...

Should I do this before the relay kicks in? As in leave it off for a while and then test. It's powered on right now.

Well I replaced all of those capacitors you mentioned. Still takes 10-15 minutes to throw that relay. All of the old ones tested good by the way.

Thanks for the response. I replaced the grado cart with AT95E already, but thanks for your post. I was looking on craigslist and found a person selling vintage audio equipment. Picked up a: Yamaha CA-610 II Philips GA-212 turntable B&W DM602 speakers Got all that for $500. So now I'm using...

I noticed if I've had the yamaha on for a while and turn of off and back on, then it's about 5 seconds like I've read before it clicks on. Once you mentioned that capacitor, that does make more sense. Relays usually work or don't.

I just picked this up from craigslist for $135. I also got B&W DM602's and a Philips 212 turntable for $500 total. Anywho, when I power the amp up, it takes 15+ minutes before I hear the relay click. And just before it I can hear a buzz, then click, then music. I downloaded the service...