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If the new caps are a lot smaller, why do you think you need to glue/clamp them.

Stuffing behind the NEO isn't doing anything for you (sealed back driver). You may want a limited amount of stuffing behind the M6. You will be better off to line the back and side walls w/ some Ultratouch or ridgid fiberglass.

Is this some kind of personal revelation?

Multiple subs can really even out room modes.

Neither the Sansui 2000/5000 are close to the 730 in build or sound quality. Have them all. FWIW, the 2000 gets spanked by the HK 330B (5000 can go louder, but not better).

If you like the sound of the 730, look for a HK-505. $150 is doable if you can find one. Alternatively look for a later PM655, PM660, PM665 or HK680i.

You've got 30 minutes or less before you will have to scrape or sand any errant Duratex. It may be 7 days for complete cure, but it will be rock hard after 4 to 8 hours of Texas summer.

If you run Jeff's Response Modeler you can get a pretty good idea of the room gain in your room. Less guessing.

Given that there are at least three distinctively different Dual drive types, your remarks are grossly overstated.

You need to remove as much rust as possible. If you can't get it all off, use a primer that will chemically bind /inert the rust. After that the same as painting wood. Surface flaws will telegraph. Easiest way to avoid this is a textured surface such a Rustoleum Hammered tone.

That's receiver not a preamp. There shouldn't be any issues running from the computer as along as the whole signal train is without problems. Distortion and damage generally comes form the user not being able to control the volume.

http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/WBCD.html Ask your questions here: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forumdisplay.php?2-Tech-Talk-Forum You'll get help from experienced builders. You can also look here. http://www.diysubwoofers.org/

Class D clipping is pretty ugly, you will definitely know it.

They're not exaggerated per se, they're just quoted at much higher distortion levels (10%) than a typically quoted. The more conventioanlpower ratings are also available, you just need to look a little more. The DTA-100A is 30 watts/8 ohm @ <1% THD.

99.99% pure = 4 nines used to describe purity level

Are you talking about the Oppos compared to other DACs? The 105 and 95 have the same ES9018 chip.

Perhaps you should look at the difference in oxygen content between "oxygen free" and normal copper wire. Bascially fourth decimal place difference. I'm guessing you didn't ask yourself why the environment inside the speajer cab would be significantly different thant the environment outside the...

Uh, the B1 is a passive pre-amp, not an amp. And while I'm sure the OP hears "warmth", I think Nelson would be appalled that a circuit specifically designed to be transparent was billed as coloring the sound.

Although not stated, the misspelling is also a likely cause for not finding threads in the search.

My experience w/ MOSFET amps is that they have uniformly had a desirable but hard to describe effect on the music. That said I don't have any experience w/ those Soundcraftsmen amps. I am favorably boased toward mosfet amps.

Corrected your entry :thmbsp:

I can't Panasonic Pureism or PXL anywhere on Digikey or the Panasonic site. At least up to now, Panasonic has resisted the "audio grade" marketing speak on caps. Take this FWIW.

Here we go. "audio grade" is marketing speak, not a technical characteristic. You can find Panasonic caps w/ similar or better esr, temp rating, life, yet no Panasonic caps are "audio grade".

All the parts are necessary, they were just joking. However, there aren't any chips in that amp. I suspect that you're looking at the ouput transistors (parts that make the power).

That's the Vortexbox.