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https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=coaxial%20driver&sitesearch=true

Fusion360. Not easy to start with, but once you 'get it' (in spite of the lack of decent documentation!) it becomes pretty quick and easy to design engineering type things. Free to use if you don't make more than $100k/yr in your operation.

The walls had to be thick with pretty dense infill. Early ones with low infill would sound sound funny.. The printer has a 300mm x 300mm bed, the big horn was printed in two halve. The smaller "stub" (made to have the mouth extended with plywood) prints in one piece, which just barely fit...

Here are some waveguides I 3D printed -- horn stub assembly pics: http://libinst.com/SynergyDIY/Assy%20Pics.pdf

Have you looked here? https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/

One other possibility -- you don't have any kind of load across it that puts a large capacitance (say 0.5uF or more) right across the amp's output terminals by chance? That will make a lot of amps go into oscillation, and bipolar class AB amps don't oscillate "gracefully" - each output...

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/welcome-to-barter-town-preview.364230/

Another easy option -- if you know that there will always be at least 6dB of attenuation needed (probably true with most tweeters with a diy crossover), just put a 4 ohm resistor in series with your tweeter and us an 8 ohm L-Pad. Crossover has to be designed for use with an 8 ohm tweeter then...

in answer to request.....

crossover example circuits

I'm not sure it is in this case, but cyanoacrylate (basically, super glue with an accelerator) is often used in electronic manufacture to hold things to boards. I've seen it turn brownish with heat like that. But silicone adhesive will work, too, and will likely handle heat better.

Haven't they been the same company for years? Different storefronts, but same company?

One thing might be because SET is a class-A type, which doesn't have any weird kinks when the waveform gets very low near zero amplitude (as class-AB amps tend to before feedback). Class D also doesn't do anything radical near zero crossings than elsewhere in the waveform. T-Amps actually have...

I've had a bunch of cheapies, got tired of never knowing whether the reading was right or whether the switch in the DVM wasn't making good contact on all points (a VERY common problem with cheap DVMs it seems). Finally I got an old FLUKE benchtop unit, which saves time and sanity. Not the most...

I'd bet it's a homebrew, built in a standard Bud box. Neither of which is a bad thing.

I think the height is so short that they don't have any vertical directivity, probably going omnidirectional in the vertical at about 10kHz. Lots of diffraction, though, Geddes wouldn't approve. Pattern control works the opposite way that most folks think, to make a narrow pattern to lower...

I had a (DIY) outboard DAC that would blank out for several seconds everytime there was a static spark anywhere in the room. Get up or sit down in a certain channel and you get a short period of silence. Or walk over one one of the rugs. Or pet a cat. My fix was to get rid of the damn thing...

Those aren't meant to be 'conductive tracks', they are indeed resistors (Kenwood took 'printed circuit' a littler further than usual for a few years there). You need to not mess with them unless they are truly broken, which unless the board got cracked, is very unlikley -- the reason they were...

That looks pretty neat, and is a handy thing to have for matching transistors. But unfortunately I don't think there's a way that curve tracer can shed light to test your friend's hypothesis about problems to do with the speed of any of the transistors (which might make your amplifier...

Electric heat strippers, if you can get a good deal on one (ebay is where I found mine). Makes stripping a lot of wires much faster, and almost no effort. Also about the only good way to strip teflon wire without effort and time. But they tend to be expensive (used mostly by manufacturers...

Nope. A good idea, actually.

If they come up ok, they'll likely do ok with subs. As I remember, these didn't like capacitive loads (like electrostatic speakers or some exotic cables) and may smoke from the dislike, but subs are pretty benign. The big blue filter caps may well be past their "replace-by-date" though, they...

Just a thought -- did you check the pinout on the +tive regulator? It's not the same as for the -tive regulator!

Glad you're thinking of it more out-of-interest than career. It's not a great career choice if you like to do things like eat and sleep indoors, you're fighting the throw-away culture every day. How many times did I hear a different version of "XX$$ to fix it! But it only cost YY$$ to buy...

Just get another pair and make horizontal shelves with them