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1060 - Purchased, now restoration

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by paultlaw, Jan 9, 2018.

  1. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    316
    Hi all

    I have purchased what i think to be a virgin 1060 - Gonna see what all this fuss is about!
    Can someone point me in the direction of a new replacement power switch, and multi turn pots for these preferably from mouser?
    Are there other bits that require attention in these? Resistors etc? Money is an issue of course. Any hints, tips that can be put forward before beginning? I know there is a bucket load of threads on this already, I am reading them.
    Pictures of the guts to follow, had a quick listen yesterday, one channel drops out intermittently, but sounded great. Should I not use it for the time being until issue is resolved?
     
    Homer4beer likes this.

     

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  2. stoN_Cold

    stoN_Cold Super Member

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  3. Homer4beer

    Homer4beer Well-Known Member

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    Nice work :)
     
  4. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    316
    What are your thoughts on this, not virgin I think someone did some work in here (besides the speaker terminals).
    What are people thoughts on using nichicon upw and ukl series on these?
    Pictures coming.
     
  5. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    316
  6. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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  7. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    And there it is
     

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  8. Jailtime

    Jailtime Standin' on a corner Subscriber

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    Looks nice. The knobs need to be swapped, big ones on the bottom row.

    Nichicon Gold Tunes for the filter and coupling caps would be nice, Nichicon FG or Muse for the rest of the electrolytics if you want to be fancy. Elna Silmic II would be great too.
     
  9. restorer-john

    restorer-john Addicted Member

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    Location:
    Australia
    It's had 4 caps replaced on the power amp board, that's all. (the blue ones)- that was no doubt done as the old nippon chemicons leak in that position and the glue doesn't help either. The work was likely done to repair a hum, which is caused by the failures of C707,8,9,10.

    All the caps in that unit are at the end of their life- they were made in 1974. You need to be realistic, the amp simply doesn't perform remotely as well as it did 43 years ago. You have a few tantalums on the phono preamp board to that need to go.

    The power supply board has glued down caps and the Nippon Chemicons do leak and that is a combination that eats the leads out from under the caps- you can't see it until you remove them, and the glue.

    Instead of worrying about the trimpots (they are fine- good quality Alps units), replace your power switch if it is bad, also the switch suppression cap and do up a nice list for caps. I use Nichicon fine gold right the way through except spkr coupling, and PSU caps. UFGs are a beautiful cap and Nichicon still offers a decent range of values and voltages (at this stage), so you can have gold all the way through (almost).

    The 1060 is a fun job, all boards are easily accessible, not too much juggling involved and it's light on your workbench. The least fun part on the early 1060s is the glue- and you have plenty of it to remove. Lots of acetone and a sharp wooden shaved chopstick and you won't scratch the board.

    Don't be tempted to bodge up small caps in those clamps with spacers (that's lazy)- go for larger values and the correct diameter on the speaker coupling caps and with the main filter cap, get a bracket the same size- there are smaller mounting holes under the large cap as the same chassis was used for the 1030 which used a smaller diameter main cap- the mounting holes are already there.

    Do it properly and be rewarded with what the 1060 is capable of. :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2018
  10. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    316
    Thanks for that, it is very much appreciated. I have the values required in nichicon upw and ukl series and a few fg.
    My issue is determining what type of cap to use in a particular location. I can't really read an electrical schematic properly and identify which caps are signal caps, or which are power caps etc. Probably the most frustrating part of it all for me. I have ordered all the caps and a bunch of transistors (and cap clamps) with the kind help of fellow members parts lists etc, thank you guys/gals. All caps are either film or Elna silmic 11, I hope they are suitable for the task in both power and signal locations
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2018
  11. CohibaJoe

    CohibaJoe AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    The 1060 would make a nice Recap Project for your first one. Easy to access.

    Marantz1060v2.jpg
     

     

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  12. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    :)I have done a Pioneer SX5560 and SX690 Pioneer, both are in full use everyday, no issues yet - access should be no issue here anyway -inexperience and lack of understanding of schematics etc is the issue.

    Also working on a Sony taf670es, made a horrible mistake and forgot to put a mica sheet back on one of the outputs, waiting on replacement sheets to try get it back to life (outputs test fine out of circuit) so hopefully I haven't turned that one into a door stop
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2018
  13. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    A common practice is to use 105 degree rated caps in the power supply, since that is usually the warmest spot. Nichicon UPW or Panasonic FC series caps are often used. The larger the amp, the more you have to worry about heat on the other boards and steer toward higher temp caps. But in the 1060, heat is not likely to be a problem - even on the power supply board. Personally, I would still use UPW series on the power supply - just routine for me. Everywhere else on a 1060, use whatever high quality caps you have. Elna Silmic II’s are great as are Nichicon Fine Gold. I have a big stock of Nichicon UKL, mostly in smaller capacitances, and I use them everywhere except the power supply.
     
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  14. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    316
    Oil in films? Or polypropylene film for the phono board and preamp (4x .47uf and 2x .22uf) , damn those polys used in various threads to much gusto are like 40 Euro for 6 caps. Pretty expensive. Is it worth it?
    This thread is gonna be slow unfortunately so please bear with me
     
  15. restorer-john

    restorer-john Addicted Member

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    Phono preamp stage in your unit needs the electros and tantalums replacing, you can leave the big brown caps- they are always good. Unless the phono preamp is noisy or out of spec, there's no need to touch the transistors unless you want more to do on that PCB.

    No need to go crazy with exotic PIO caps- the 1060 phono stage is perfectly sweet as it is.
     
  16. quadmatrix82

    quadmatrix82 Active Member

    Messages:
    279
    As part of the restoration you should change the safety capacitor as well for the power switch. If I recall correctly there are some old carbon resistors on the power supply board that go out of spec by up to 30 percent I seen this on many 1060 best to replace them with new metal film resistors with same wattage
     

     

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  17. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I’m with restorer-John on the exotic caps. I have tried Mundorf EVO oils on the phono board and could not tell the difference from standard caps. Some people swear by the exotics and maybe they have better trained listening ears than I have. But I don’t spend my money on them.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
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  18. CohibaJoe

    CohibaJoe AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I also have tried in the Phone board and the "Ugly Browns" are Very Good and why I left these in.
     
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  19. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    316
    Thank you, roger that. Should i leave the "tasty greens" in too then?
     
  20. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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