1060 - Purchased, now restoration

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by paultlaw, Jan 9, 2018.

  1. restorer-john

    restorer-john Addicted Member

    Messages:
    6,079
    Location:
    Australia
    The greencaps will likely also be fine, you can replace with Panasonic polys if you want. Greencaps are sealed in epoxy and have proved to be virtually the most reliable cap long term IMO.
     

     

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  2. CohibaJoe

    CohibaJoe AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    2,473
    Location:
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    I found these Flat sounding and "to me" that's were I would go with a Nice sounding Film. Mundorf EVO Aluminum + Oil are in my Marantz (2)1060, (2) 2230, 4060.
    If $$ is a factor...maybe try the Panasonic and compare to the "Greenies".
     
  3. Mike Sweeney

    Mike Sweeney AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Orange CA
    I was lazy on mine.. I used Panasonic and Rubycons for main filter caps and some rim tape to build up the base to fit into the clamps. But the boards got gold Nichicons. I replaced 2SC945s with KSC1845s. I plan to go back soon and replace the coupling caps with some NOS russian paper/oil caps just to have some fun. I've read folks have had some reasonable success with this swap and were pleasently surprised with the sound. I cleaned the pots with DeOxit and then gave a spray of contact lube. I kept the old trimmers on the main amp but did douse them with deoxit and work them back and forth. They are still touchy as hell so I might replace them later on. But for now they are on spec.
     
  4. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Any thoughts on how to remove the boards on these to work on?
    I removed P800 last night,I unwrapped wires from their posts, seems like there must be a better way. Also pulled one of the posts out of the board, thought that was better. Haven't recapped the board yet, but I'll upload a picture of it when complete. Hard to find time with work and life at the minute.
     
  5. Richs_Trains

    Richs_Trains AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    728
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    I have done 3 of these and did not completely remove any boards. The back of the unit can be unscrewed and "hinged" on the outer screw holes giving very good access to the power amp boards and most of the other boards can be moved to become accessible. Be very careful of the bias diodes attached to the heat sink, these are very fragile and hard to source the originals.
    1060_basket_2.jpg
    1060_basket.jpg

    This one was totally dead shorted and rusted bad, but except for the dirty controls, which don't seem to want to clean, it is my outdoor speakers daily driver. The only board you really have to physically remove is the tone board which has the actual tone controls. Good luck.... Rich
     
  6. Richs_Trains

    Richs_Trains AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    728
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Forgot to mention, for me, it was easier to remove the pins from the pcb rather than unwrap the wire when necessary, makes for a cleaner look when finished. Rich
     
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  7. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    272
    15162258425481453836888.jpg
     
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  8. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    272
    Power board done, used nichicon upw for this board and followed the uprating and capacitance and voltage that fellow akers have done. New diodes UF4005 and a nice ksc2383yta.
    Was harder than I thought to be honest.
    I'm slow as hell, but powered up on dbt, all looks good.
     
  9. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Where to next? Big power caps? Or power amp board, bear in mind I have a channel dropping in and out, afraid to put this through its paces until issue resolved. Thanks for all the help and advice, please keep it coming
     
  10. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,808
    Location:
    N. Richland Hills, TX
    If a unit is working properly, I usually rebuild the power supply followed by the filter caps, then main amps. Others do the power amps before filter caps. But either way, I would be trying to solve the dropping channel before anything else. General rule of thumb, even if you are recapping, fix the problem first. Don't count on the shotgun method to fix it. If you introduce a second problem, you will have ten times the trouble sorting things out. Get it working properly and then proceed with the recap/rebuild. That PS pic looks great BTW. Nice job! :thumbsup:
     
  11. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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  12. Mike Sweeney

    Mike Sweeney AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Location:
    Orange CA
    I have the correct unwrap/wrap tool for the Marantz. It's not cheap at 30 bucks but works very well. The issue is the wire and how wirewrap works. The wire is old and brittle. Coupled with that WW when done correctly, the post sides cut into the wire and that weakens it when you unwrap it. It's very difficult to get the wire re-wrapped. I find I trim off most of it and then trim down the insulation for a new short wrap. I put a dab of solder on the new short wrap and life is good. Some pull the post but you are gambling a bit with the old wire not fracturing. I've done that too and it does work. I would say it's a judgement call on which to use. I spent years working with WW in the DOD so I don't mind working with it. If you don't have experience, then pulling the post is a good option. And the third is just to pull the board and get a good angle without undoing anything. The 1030 and 1060 works well with that. Even my 2226B worked that way with some patience and removing some of the metal frame.
     
  13. thxdave

    thxdave Lava Lamp repairman Subscriber

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    405
    Location:
    Florida
    Hey Mike, what IS the correct WW tool for Marantz posts?
     
  14. Mike Sweeney

    Mike Sweeney AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Orange CA
    This one; 30 dollars US at Amazon. One end unwraps, the other wraps

    Jonard WSU-2224 Wrap/Strip/Unwrapping Tool, 22-24 AWG, 13/64" OD x 1/16"
     
  15. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    None of the connections on my unit look like a classic wire wrap, they all seem to be a haphazard wrap and a whole bunch of solder. Wiring is multi strand too, not single core.

    Slow going with this, last night I changed out the lamp for a nice Led. I'm thinking of painting the sub chassis and transformer case, wondering though if that's too much to handle.
     
  16. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Pulled power amp board this evening.
    1516829239773978785484.jpg
     

     

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  17. pdm4606

    pdm4606 Super Member

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  18. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Someone really messed up the pads for H710
     

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  19. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Pdm4606 - I will update the thread with exactly that when the time comes. If I had known earlier would have done it before I pulled this board
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2018
  20. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    I doubt this is factory anyway! 151683134254557290748.jpg
     

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