1060 - Purchased, now restoration

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by paultlaw, Jan 9, 2018.

  1. Mike Sweeney

    Mike Sweeney AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    273
    Location:
    Orange CA
    Personally speaking, I'd be tempted to redo the wiring the correct way with the solid core and at least wrapped around the posts. You cannot wirewrap once solder has been on the posts and have it work well. Give how screwed up these are, it does give you the chance to use modern wirewrap pins and tools :) If you want to solder, then just get some standoff pins and do a few loops and call it done. Here is a fun article on the fine art of wirewrap - http://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/article/wire_wrap_is_alive_and_well
     

     

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  2. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    272
    I am tempted to do just that. What gauge wiring should do? Where can i buy the standoff pins? Quick look on ebay and farnell have not yielded much, is there an official title for the standoffs?
     
  3. Mike Sweeney

    Mike Sweeney AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Orange CA
  4. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
  5. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Amp board completed, I put heat sink grease on 2 of the heatsink, I'm assuming no need for that as the heatsink might slip off? Probably the reason they were glued originally.

    All transistors replaced, capacitors and one resistor.
     
  6. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    I am kind of floundering to get this one finished, my time to get this over the line is very limited.
    Whoever messed with the unit before me, left an awful mess on the circuit boards for me to fix, lots of burnt traces etc.
    I bough some wire to connect the output transistors to the power amp board, far too stiff in my opinion i need something more flexible.
    I foolishly also forgot to adequate detail that i would need a signal generator and oscilloscope to set everything up properly and finish commissioning!
    Its a shame to have all the parts and then realise you blew your audio budget on a Onkyo A7090 with one dodgy channel!
     

     

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  7. Strgazr1967

    Strgazr1967 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I’m currently starting restoration on 2 1060’s. Lol yes I LOVE these amps. Although a scope is nice you can get away with setting the bias to 1/2 the Ps output. Usually 35v or so but I’ve seen some as low as 31v. It’s not exact but unless you have the volume level cranked to the max clipping shouldn’t be an issue. There are other threads that discuss setting it this way.
     
  8. RumpyLover

    RumpyLover AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    66
    Location:
    Ohio
    What is the significance of the “(e)” after the model number on your serial number board? My 1060 has this also but I don’t see it on all of them.
     
  9. Strgazr1967

    Strgazr1967 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    71
  10. Mike Sweeney

    Mike Sweeney AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    273
    Location:
    Orange CA
    I would recommend you rebuild the power switch or at least take a look at it. I've got pics in a couple of threads here on how I've done it. Steady hands, a very slim flat bladed screw driver and a relay burnishing tool are all thats needed. I clean with DeOxit and then use their non-conductive grease that has DeOxit in it to lube the contacts.

    Most time you can save the switch. Most.. sometimes it's cooked but you don't know till you take it apart.

    Here are two sample pics from a 2226B power switch. It's been pretty much the same for the 2285B, 2226B, 1030 and the 2230. Your milage may vary :)
     

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