1060 - Purchased, now restoration

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by paultlaw, Jan 9, 2018.

  1. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
    Thank you for your help, its good to know you make mistakes too, do not know how I botched this, but I certainly won't let this beat me, not with all the help here.
     

     

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  2. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    431
    Dammit. Don't have any of those. If I tweak the pins, big of leg crossed effort?
     
  3. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    You should be able to bend some pins and get by with it if you are careful. Maybe sleeve the leads to prevent contact.
     
  4. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
    So my KSA733CGBU are ok - good
     
  5. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
    Just to try and put a clear message on the replacement transistors for the Power amp board in Marantz 1060.
    It would be nice if someone can confirm these as correct so that anyone who comes after will have another reference


    H706,H705 Replace with KSC945CGBU - Different Pinout than normal - (C Suffix)
    H708 and H707 Replace with KSA733CGBU - Different Pinout than normal - (C Suffix)
    H710, H709, H704, H703 Replace with 2N3440 -
    H711 and H712 Replace 2N5416
    H701 and H702 Replace with KSC945CGBU Different Pinout than normal - (C Suffix)
     
  6. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I'm not that knowledgeable about transistors, but it seems that I see more references around the forum to KSC945CYTA and KSA733CYTA. I looked at the data sheet, and all seem to have the same operational parameters. The only difference I can see is the packing method. Hopefully someone here can tell us the difference and if it matters in application.
     

     

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  7. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    431
    ksc945 (2).png
    I might well be wrong also, seriously, who am I to be dispensing advice. I think it is only the C part that matters, the transistor is the same, but the pinout configuration is different. Hence why I had to cross some legs.
    Open to any correction on this obviously.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2018
  8. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
    Progress is slow but coming along.
    IMG_20181104_114307.jpg
     
  9. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
    Ok i have to replace the 18 ohm resistors attached to H713 and H714.
    The didoes read 0.9v each when checked with meter - Can anyone confirm this is correct?
    I though diodes were supposed to be between 0.4 and 0.7v when checked?

    I changed pretty much all the resistors on the board - checking each of them to see if any were damaged in the magic smoke fiasco, so i thought i would just replace them as i went along.

    Surprisingly only about a few had drifted
     
  10. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
  11. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    431
    Are the germaniums i am putting back in ok? H713 and H714?
    If they are not what diode is suitable replacement?
     

     

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  12. jwjarch

    jwjarch New Member

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    Nice progress Paul. I believe the old H713-H714 were thermistors with a resistor attached. This was a factory service item at the time. Now, these can be replaced with a 1n4148 or 1n4448 diode. No resistor needed and they don't need to be attached to the heatsinks of the driver transistors. You can see them on my re-build below.

    Also, going back a few posts, yes your list in post #85 is correct to the best of my knowledge. And as you found out the hard way, the C suffix makes a big difference! Hope you got those crisscrossed legs all nicely insulated.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 7, 2018
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  13. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
  14. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
    Ready for connection to power, i hope
     
  15. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    431
    What points do the big filter cap connect to?
    Trying to figure the schematic out here, afraid of making a mistake

    Update, got it, powered up on dbt with croc clips to make temporary connection, light bright then dim. Nice.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2018
  16. CohibaJoe

    CohibaJoe AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  17. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

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    431
    OK something ain't right heat sink hot. Can someone explain to me exactly how to set the bias.
     
  18. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
    R747 pos and neg of multimeter attached, used r729 to try set to 7.5mv. No effect moving the pot. Heatsink is pretty damn warm.

    Updated: Cannot get the bias to adjust properly. Going from 120mv to 0.1. Not stabilizing at all.
    Pulling my hair out now at this stage.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2018
  19. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
  20. paultlaw

    paultlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    431
    Bump, Can someone direct me please, going to reinstall the original pots, I've got a 470k pot on the board instead of a 470 pot!! I have got me a lot to learn folks, what a mistake, yet another in a litany.

    Would that cause the bias to jump around like crazy? i could not get it to settle at all really.
    I did not think that the wrong value pot would cause the jumping around and not settling on a value, either way i have to remedy this.

    Which leg points towards center of the board?
    I do not really get how to figure out which leg is the wiper and where said wiper pin goes.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2018

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