1963 Fisher 500c

Tom Boley

Active Member
I don't know if this is worthy of a new thread but it's a big deal to me! :banana: I have acquired a 500c, Serial #: 13851D reportedly from the original owner, who purchased it in 1962. As you can see the unit is dusty but the only issues I found from an external inspection was a missing end-cap for the 'Treble' knob and a small spot above the bird on the chassis. The end-cap was visible in the e-Bay listing so maybe the seller has it.
OK, now where do I start? Can anyone tell me the items that absolutely should be addressed before I try to power on the unit? I know there are many sources on the net but can someone recommend any particular articles/authors? :beerchug:
 
Any of the 800-C/500C threads pertaining to restoration bear reading. Build a DBT (Dim Bulb Tester) and equip it with 150W and 100W bulbs.

Do you have any history as to when it was run or powered up last?

Take some well lit pictures of the internals (split the chassis into quarters with some overlap) to get a baseline appearance with parts location. Download the closest serial number service manual you can. FISHER Generally did these in 10000 units per manual. Your's will be in the 1st group built as they generally started from 10001.
 
Listen to Larry ^^^

I'm gonna take that one with a BIG grain of SALT! I'm pretty fair with the models I've worked on as long as you keep it stock. But I don't know all the answers, and it's getting worse with the arthritis, degenerative disc disease which is not getting better, and the stuff guys of my age(60+) and older get. I'll stick my nose in, but don't expect miracles.
 
Larry,
Is it so hard to take a compliment?
It's been my experience that 9 times out of 10, whenever someone opens a new fisher thread, you're the first one in with start up advice and links to appropriate threads regarding start up and restores. The fact that you've been inside more than few makes you a valuable asset to any new fisher owner. Also , you seem to be the defacto AK fisher historian.
Many other great assets here. You just always seem to be the welcoming committee! (That is totally meant as a compliment).:thumbsup:
 
View attachment 729770 View attachment 729770 View attachment 729772 DSC_0078.JPG DSC_0079.JPG View attachment 729778 DSC_0082.JPG View attachment 729781 View attachment 729781 Thanks for the quick responses. I built a dim bulb tester (wasn't sure on the wattage required). I also have a variac and will use it to slowly run up the power. I purchased it via e-Bay. The seller said he purchased it from an estate. The listing stated there was an original, serial # matching, manual but it didn't show up in the box. He's checking into that now. The unit obviously has spent years in a smoking household. I cleaned years of film off the faceplate, particularly around the volume knob. I used alcohol and Q-tips and was very careful around the lettering.
 
Hello to all and thank you for all the advice you have given and also for the guidance I am going to need going forward. Here's where I am now. I powered up through the dim bulb tester and it didn't appear to have any shorts. I only had a 100w bulb. It's hard to find a 150w bulb that's not the new type. Do they work the same? Anyway, I then powered up the unit via the variac, with speakers and a musichall 25.3 to the aux inputs. When the power reached about 90 volts pretty nice sound came from both speakers.. I listened to about 1 Eagles song and then the left channel sounded scratchy and then went silent. :dunno: I should be receiving a tube tester in today's mail so I should be able to test the tubes. I haven't pulled the bottom off of the unit yet. Please comment on where I should go next.
 
Get yourself a can of Deoxit and clean those controls. Don't forget the switches in the middle either.
 
Will do, Mike.

Help. This unit arrived missing the end bright for the 'Treble' control. It was visible in the listing photo on E-Bay and was not in the packing materials. The seller has offered to pay for a replacement. I checked E-Bay and found 2 listings, both from the same seller with prices of $41 & $48, including shipping. The listing states the items are located in Honk Kong. I I'm not looking to gouge the seller. Does anyone know of a source for knob brights for a 500c?
 
Those brights shouldn't cost more than $4-$5 each. There is a US seller in NJ. Let me see if I can find one.
 
Go back to eBay and search for "FISHER KNOB Brass Caps kit"

This set is only $15 and doesn't have to ship from outside of the country.
 
Tom; The chassis will respond well to a bath of "SCRUBBING BUBBLES" and a couple of small brushes, followed up with a dousing with alcohol or a NON-RESIDUE spray Electronics Cleaner. It won't hurt anything on the chassis, and can be used in under 24 hours. The lettering won't be affected by the bubbles, or either of the rinses, unless you scrub harder than necessary to remove the nicotine and tars. And they'll come off pretty easily.

If it came up and played with a 100W bulb, you're ahead of the game. Means it's basically healthy, but still should have some up dating. It'll benefit from a new rectifier (Silicon), replacement electrolytic caps, some replacement films, and a few dafety and longevity mods. The only difference between a 100W and 150W bulb is the 100W bulb restricts more voltage getting to the unit. You can probably play it in a limited sense, in that you run it sparingly while in the room to shut it down quickly if anything lets loose. Best way to check tubes is in circuit, and test voltages and tube draws (this is where one of the mods comes in handy......10 ohm 1/4 w resistor from pin 5 to the ground, replacing the straight wire from pin 5 to ground).

Read the "COMMON FISHER PARTS" for silicon rectifiers, phono tube socket grommets, etc. With minor variations, (lack of an AM section in the tuner) and a few parts difference, the 500C is identical to the 800C.
 
Good morning Larry, The unit did play for a few minutes but then the left channel went out. A Hickok 600A tube tester arrived yesterday and I tested all of the tubes. A few of the tubes, V1, V3 & V7, test a little weak for MC if I am doing the tests correctly. I see there are other tests I can run but I'm thinking I should just go ahead and remove the bottom and begin the restoration. I've purchased a kit from Metalbone and will be ordering new cans from Hayseed. Another question, what type of fm antenna do I need. Do you know where I can get one? I also plan to install the IBBA during the restoration. I ordered those parts from Mouser. I've been reading the posts regarding the restoration process and have already learned a lot but I can see I have a long way to go. Thank you for all you help.
 
I cannot stress this more or be more clear on this matter

You have to take allot of detailed pictures before and after each change as future reference in case something goes wrong

Any differences with the metalbone kit you should seek advise here

The 1963 is an early unit

One step at a time
 
Agreed,
Also , I'd suggest PS first. Test voltages, once it checks ok, proceed. Not a terrible idea to a step to one channel, recheck then do the other. That way you have a correct example of how it was attached (as omegaman said, pictures, in sections, from different angles. It really helps avoid mistakes and to dress things properly. Also if you get interrupted, (hey life is like that,) when you come back to it you don't lose you place or train of thought.
 
You've got one of the Earliest if not the earliest serialed 500C. Literally the 3851st one made. FISHER started their production at 10001.

With the unit off and unplugged you can work all of the pots and switches back and forth smartly. This will scrub a good amount of crap off the pot's and switches so the left side may come back. Do this before the DeOxit, then left the DeOxit sit for about 20 minutes and work them all again. Flush and drop the seat. :p

V-1, V3 are RF tubes for the tuner. V7 is for the Tuning meter. V3 (6HR6) is going to be very hard and very expensive. A direct replacement for the 6HR6 is the 6AH6 which costs about $4. at most places. The 6HR6 will cost about 10 times that much. V1 and V7 are about $5 each.

Like Omegaman said WEAR THAT CAMERA OUT!!!! Use plenty of light and 5-6 different angles of each spot you take. Beileve me it helps immensely!

Antenna's can be as basic as a piece of wire hanging out the window all the way up to a shop installed NASA designed job on the roof. Distance from the station transmitter, terrain between you and it, higher bldg's, etc. all factor into it. FM is LINE OF SIGHT. Not like AM where the signal can bounce off the ionosphere and go 1/2 way around the world, FM is generally limited to 40-50 miles depending on the factors above. If you live in a suburb you can get away with a folded dipole (6ft long "T" shaped) from Radio Shack or most electronic stores. If you have an analog TV antenna on your roof , that will work too as TV Band is/was in the FM spectrum. You can make a folded Dipole from some 300 ohm twin lead. Quite easy and eventually cheaper than a Radioshack antenna. Google How to make a FM DIPOLE antenna.

Google link Lots of pages on how to make an FM antenna.

Plain Wire, Fancy Reception is a good page on how to make some common and not so common antenna's. They are all fairly easy to make and all pull in good reception.
 
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