202-R Arrived

Discussion in 'Fisher' started by audmod01, Jun 27, 2017.

  1. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I managed to check for alignment of screw holes for the 202-R. The cabinet that I acquired from the bid site may be correct for a 100 series amplifier, but they do not match the screw holes for the bottom cover of the 202-R. To use this cabinet with the 202-R would require some special metal brackets to use as adapters for the holes revealed in the bottom of the 202-R bottom cover after removal of the original equipment feet. Those front bottom cover screw holes wind up in a vacant area in the bottom of the wood cabinet. At the rear of the cabinet the location screw holes would have to be drilled out of the wood in that area in order to use this cabinet for the 202-R. Also as it turns out, the back end of the 202-R extends beyond the rear limits of the cabinet by over 1/4" so the AM loop antenna and the fuse holder and rear connections are exposed and vulnerable to damage. So just any cabinet will not necessarily work for a 202-R or other Fisher FM tuner. Any wooden cabinet made to fit a 202-R needs to have an overall depth dimension of at least 13 inches, not 12 inches.
    n-100-n Cabinet screw holes web.jpg
     
  2. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Here is one more picture that illustrates the 202-R chassis extension beyond the cabinet rear dimension. It also shows more clearly the existing cabinet screw feet holes and how they do not line up with any feet holes of the 202-R. I may check on how this cabinet might work for my X-101-C integrated amplifier.
    Joe
    202-R in Cabinet web.jpg
     
  3. gadget73

    gadget73 junk junkie Subscriber

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    Same with Sherwood gear of the era, legs but no lid.

    Could always drill/tap the two front holes and call it adequate.
     
  4. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I have found a way to secure the 202-R chassis in the cabinet. In the two long slots on both left and right sides of the bottom there is space to place a right angle bracket made from aluminum L-channel to secure the front part of the chassis bottom. Then at the rear two holes need to be drilled in the wood to provide access to the tuner chassis bottom rear feet holes. This way the tuner can be secured in the cabinet without making any modifications to the chassis itself, only to the cabinet.
    Fitting chassis to cabinet web.jpg
    I have cut two right angle brackets from some aluminum L-channel material and the next step will be to drill holes in them for attachment to the chassis bottom cover at the front feet locations and two holes in the vertical part of the bracket to secure them to the side of the slot in the wood of the cabinet bottom. There will not be much stress in an up or down direction because the front panel of the chassis is held rather securely by the opening in the front of the cabinet wood trim. At the rear it is a different condition where there is plenty of room around the chassis inside the cabinet and so at that location it makes sense to use the full strength of the plywood of the cabinet bottom with some holes drilled and use some #8 screws, flat washers and split-washers. This will allow me to use the cabinet I bought with minimal changes to it.

    Joe
     
  5. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Today I got around to making the right angle brackets I had planned and drilled the necessary holes in the wood to fasten the 202-R chassis into the wood cabinet I bought for it. As usual it took me much longer than it would have years ago (4 hours of work), but at least I did manage to get it done. Here are some pictures of the result.
    Cabinet Modifications web 02.jpg Cabinet Modifications web 03.jpg
    I will admit that my aluminum right angle brackets are not the strongest possible solution, and I would never ship the chassis in the cabinet for fear of damage, but it does secure the chassis in the cabinet and the rear screws do a good job of securing the back end of the chassis to the cabinet, so It satisfies the needs for now. I had to add some flat washers on the top side of the brackets due to some added space between the chassis bottom and the plywood bottom of the cabinet on the inside. This is because there were some thin wood strips front to back glued on top of the plywood inside the cabinet as shims to help position the chassis (of what ever type would be installed) evenly top to bottom with respect to the front trim frame. I used some blue painter's masking tape to keep the flat washers in place and left them that way. 30 lashes with a wet noodle for my laziness there.:whip:

    Joe
     
  6. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Joe; a "Z" bracket might be easier to work with in cases like this. Then you wouldn't have to put the screws in sideways (always a PITA!) :whip::D
     
  7. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Larry;
    True, but the problem I had was finding some with the right dimensions. I thought about that and just could not find any locally of the right size. I could have ordered some from McMaster-Carr, but elected to go the other method. Thanks for the lashes! (I think, kicking self).
    Joe
     
  8. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Yer welcome. Flogging is still in vogue in some S.E. Asia Countries. Gotta keep my arm in shape....:naughty::naughty::rflmao: Mark up some flat sheet steel and bend it in a vise (Bigger hammer works better). Nobody is gonna look at it and you can modify it as needed.
     
  9. dcgillespie

    dcgillespie Fisher SA-100 Clone Subscriber

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    Joe -- Can the bottom air holes still breath? Tuners of that complexity do generate some heat -- just wondering......

    Dave
     
  10. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I will have to check on that. Although I got it to fit the cabinet, I am not sure about that. I know there are some ventilation holes on the top of the chassis around the power transformer. There should be some underneath also. I will check tomorrow and report on that.

    Joe
     
  11. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Larry;

    I read your comments about reducing scratches in wood by applying water (as steam?). Could you elaborate and how deep a scratch is this method helpful with?

    Joe
     
  12. mrphilco

    mrphilco AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    This is a question I can answer.

    I have done this once (to a 1942 Philco 42-22CL clock radio cabinet), and it worked extremely well.

    You need a damp old rag, and an old iron that you will never use on clothing again - don't use your wife's good iron for this! I bought an old iron at a yard sale a few years ago for 50 cents, and I use it exclusively for gluing veneer and also for the one time I did this trick. But I digress...

    Place the damp rag over the scratched wood and just start ironing the rag in the area of the scratch. Depending upon the severity of the scratch, you may have to go back, re-moisturize the rag with water, and repeat until as much of the scratch is removed as possible.

    You can even dampen the wood and then run the hot iron over it...but that will ruin any finish on the wood (and cause the finish to stick to the iron, which is why you want to use an old yard sale iron!). I ended up dampening the wood of my 42-22CL cabinet and then using the iron directly on the cabinet, as it had multiple very deep scratches which were not responding well to the damp rag. But I had already stripped the cabinet so there was no worry of losing finish. I could still see a few minor scratches when I was finished. But after refinishing, the damage had all but disappeared. :thumbsup:
     
  13. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Thanks Ron; That's how I do it too. High Heat and full steam, plus a wet but not soppy towel. It works best on unfinished wood, but you can do a decent job on finished. It will pill a lacquer finish so make sure you want to remove a lacquer finish. Beats sanding all to hell too.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2017
  14. mrphilco

    mrphilco AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Hey Larry,

    You mentioned some great points that I failed to mention or make clear in my post - high heat, full steam, wet rag (but not too wet). These are very important in order to do the best job possible in removing scratches and minor dents in wood.
     
  15. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    To handle the issue of ventilation that Dave mentioned, I have further modified the bottom of the cabinet. I cut away two areas on either side at the rear and added two reinforcing ribs. The reinforcements are stained and drying. I took a picture which is not too clear but you can get the idea. I also took a picture of the chassis with its bottom cover to show where its ventilation holes are located, mainly on the left rear in the picture. When the unit is upright the ventilation holes are on the right hand side. I still need to add a few more screws to secure the rear-most reinforcing rib. I will do that early tomorrow morning.

    I surprised myself today. I mowed for 3 hours then stopped and still had energy to do the cabinet modifications. Here are a couple of pictures of the results so far. Once I get the extra screws added, I will try to take a sharper picture of the results.
    Chassis bottom cover web.jpg Cabinet Modifications web 04.jpg
    The reinforcement rib that is toward the middle of the cabinet bottom is slightly thinner than the feet on the cabinet, so it will not scratch another cabinet if set upon a nice finish. The added felt pads will also lift the entire cabinet by probably 1/8 inch or so when I add them.

    Joe
     
  16. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Looks good Joe. No additional recommendations from me. Neat thing is if the back legs fall off you've got a backup!:D
     
  17. dcgillespie

    dcgillespie Fisher SA-100 Clone Subscriber

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    Super job Joe!!

    Dave
     
  18. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Dave and Larry;

    Thanks for the suggestions and compliments!

    I forgot to mention that the added rib toward the middle of the cabinet is a solid piece of walnut wood. It was originally part of a record changer base from a Garrard changer I bought last year. I was surprised at how dense the walnut wood is - very stout.

    Joe
     
  19. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    OK, here are some pictures after the cabinet modifications that added ventilation and reinforcement of the back part of the cabinet.
    Cabinet Modifications web 05.jpg Cabinet Modifications web 06.jpg Cabinet Modifications web 07.jpg
    Now the chassis fits and the ventilation holes are no longer blocked.

    Joe
     
  20. audmod01

    audmod01 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Yesterday I was at a local Rockler store and bought two 5" X 24" X 1/2" walnut boards that I can use to extend the cabinet at the rear and provide a place for the MPX-65 that I plan to add to the 202-R for multiplex demodulation. I have not spent time yet to determine what changes I may need to provide for audio switching at this point.

    Joe
     

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