2230 power switch

Dearslayer

Super Member
Lights flickering on the dial face of the 2230 I’m in the middle of recapping. I’ve applied deoxit to the power switch a couple of times and the length of time the lights flicker until it glows steady has decreased but still not as it should be. Anyone know a Mouser part number for a new switch to fit, in case after the next round of Deoxit doesn’t help it anymore than it has already?
 
Replacing the transistors on the 400 pre amp board. The cap list I'm using is the same as the one I used on a previous 2230 recap where it states to replace 2sa841 with KSA992FBU and replace 2sc1000 with KSC1815YTA however the transistors in this unit are 2sa493 and 2sc1681. My concern is the gain difference in the old ones versus the new replacements. So for example the old 493 has a gain of 213 and a new 992 has a gain of 405 so it's much higher, and just the opposite on the old 1681 which was 420 and the new 1815 is only around 182. Should I leave well enough alone and leave all the old transistors in place or proceed replacing with new with the HFE values so different. I'm only a rookie but I suspect the differences will have an affect on sound quality???? I already have replaced all the caps on this board and the transistors are the the last thing to be done on it. Just want to finish it off before attempting to change out the power switch.

GT.
 
While waiting for advise on the transistor issue I removed the old power switch from the fixed position to have a look. Is the connection in the pict below the correct way to connect the new switch. I just placed a couple small pieces of same color wire on the new switch terminals simply to make my question easier to understand for the correct connection position. Thanks.

GT.
 

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All of my units are in storage for a move, so I can't look at them. But I'm thinking you want the snubber directly across the orange and yellow wires. You could do that by moving the snubber to the same side as the wires or by putting short jumpers between the two sides. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will confirm or set me straight. :D
 
Thanks Steven. I found a couple picts here on AK that suggest the same but I wanted to be sure. Also David ( dwojo ) had written on the plastic bag that he sent to use the middle and rear pins so I assume the orange and Yellow wire placement would be correct. Any thoughts on the previous post regarding the transistor replacement? I am reluctant to replace them with values so different on some as suggested.
Hope the move goes well for you and also hope the wife is doing well.

Regards.
GT.
 
Thanks. Timing is everything. We have purchased a new house and have been furiously updating our old one to get it on the market. So what happens? Ended up in the ER four days ago with an intestinal obstruction around an old colon surgery site that has never given me trouble. Thought they had it fixed, but I may be headed for more surgery. I don't have time for this crap!:whip:
 
Aw man really sorry to hear that. I hear ya with the timing. Man I'm 56 and I've had more things go wrong In the last year than my whole life. I head to surgery on Tue for arthritis on the right foot. Have a dropped left foot as a result of disc problems and now its progressed to my neck sending pins and needles down my left arm and hand. What can we do except keep on keepin on! Good luck my friend, I'm sure like most things it works itself out in the end.

Regards
GT
 
Lights flickering on the dial face of the 2230 I’m in the middle of recapping. I’ve applied deoxit to the power switch a couple of times and the length of time the lights flicker until it glows steady has decreased but still not as it should be. Anyone know a Mouser part number for a new switch to fit, in case after the next round of Deoxit doesn’t help it anymore than it has already?

I had to replace the switch on my 2220 and tried something but rBuckner said Digikey has a switch that he typically uses, EG1018. (E-switch) I think I ended up trying it and it fits. Not sure about the 2230.
 
Thanks Gman76. I will check it out for future reference however I went ahead with the install of the one I received from Dwojo. I took a chance on what I thought was the correct way with jumpers across the leads and it seems to have worked out well.

GT

Edit: forgot to mention no more dial light flicker now.
 

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All of my units are in storage for a move, so I can't look at them. But I'm thinking you want the snubber directly across the orange and yellow wires. You could do that by moving the snubber to the same side as the wires or by putting short jumpers between the two sides. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will confirm or set me straight. :D

Consider eliminating the snubber on your new switch and installing the famous K7sparky triac modification. It's easy on a 2230, because (at least on the one I did) there is a convenient, pre-drilled, unused hole right behind the power switch
 
Pardon my ignorance C.coyle but is this a better or easier way, or both. I still have another 2230 that I will consider trying this on seems as the the one I'm currently working on already has the install completed.
 
Pardon my ignorance C.coyle but is this a better or easier way, or both. I still have another 2230 that I will consider trying this on seems as the the one I'm currently working on already has the install completed.

The short answer is better, but not quite as easy as putting a snubber across the switch.

The triac diverts the heavy current at turn-on from the switch. The only current passing through the switch is the small amount needed to turn the triac on. So the switch should last longer. If you have a unit with an "unobtainium" power switch, this is cheap insurance.
 
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