2240 relay replacement cost

[cjj2d]

I am not experienced in soldering electrical boards, etc.
What kind of cost am I looking at for replacing relay in a 2240?
I am working on a 2240 acquired for $50. started out with lots of static and buttons sticking etc. After a good Deox'ing the buttons are smooth as can be and the static in the volume etc is gone. However I am experiencing the level drop out in the channels that many have described here. After searching and exploring, I working on the relay, cleaned the contacts and tested. I thought it was a complete success at first but I am still getting some channel drop out, not all the time, very intermittent.

anyone have experience with replacement cost? recommendations in the Nashville/Middle TN area?
Thanks in advance.

 

[wlhd1610]

Relay is less than $12 from Digikey or Mouser.
Someone will chime in with p/n shortly.

Bob

 

[cjj2d]

thanks for the reply.
I should have phrased it differently. I am curious as to what replacement costs from a technician may run as I am comfortable Deox'ing and cleaning, but not soldering on a relay. I am contacting a local one that I have used before on my 1060 but can't remember what he charged me for servicing, just wanted to have a comparison, which I know is hard with many unknowns.

 

[wlhd1610]

Fairly easy to access so maybe 15-30 minutes to change.
To take it to a shop they'd probably want a minimum of $60-85+.
Better off to find a buddy close by who can solder.

Bigger issue is to properly address all the other gremlins that will soon follow in vintage gear this old.


Bob

 

[savatage1973]

I am curious as to what replacement costs from a technician may run

Depends on several things. I don't know what hourly bench fees your local techs charge--could be anywhere from $50 to $100+ per hour, but it should only be a 1 hour job. The relay may or not be the problem, or the only problem that needs to be addressed. As already mentioned, the relay (part itself) should be around $20 or less, but some shops mark-up parts (just like car repair shops).

I would hazard a guess at ~$100 minimum, and from there, the sky is the limit if you let them (or need to have them) start doing things other than just the relay.

If you are planning on a full re-cap or restoration down the road, and have something else to use in the meantime, I would wait until you can afford to do it all at once. Every time you pay a tech to open that case, there is a basic bench fee incurred, so you can rapidly nickel and dime yourself to death addressing one issue at a time.

That's why most of us either learn to work on our own stuff, or just go plunk down the $400-500 (or more) for the "full monty" all in one fail swoop.

 

[cjj2d]

Thanks for the replies everyone.
Not in the boat to drop $400-500 right now. This 2240 was picked up for $50 just for fun and not knowing the issues.
I guess it may be time to teach myself how to solder to boards or just take the chance that a relay replacement at $100 would do the trick. I would much rather just learn myself in the long run so this may be a good trial piece.

 

[Blue Shadow]

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...XpBMZBrfFCQ==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

$10.34 plus shipping

$12.14 plus your local tax and free shipping at Digikey if you send em a check, for US and Canada orders.

Don't know if level drop is a relay issue. If the relay is dirty it might not let that channel through and cranking the volume might flood the relay with electrons enough for them to find their way and build a bridge that lasts until the next time you fire it up. Does it have a problem on all inputs? Phono amp has some known, gonna be bad transistors in it.

I just completed a 2240 restore, 75 or so parts and when done I had a low volume channel. Turns out the ground signal from the volume control to the tone board was not what it needed to be. As I found were the issue was, putting things back together caused the wire to break at the volume control, fortunately. It was an easy resolder fix on that one. This one had low right channel with weak bass before and works fine now.

 

[cjj2d]

well, chalk this one up to learning as you go.
It looks like a bad phono stage.
after deox'ing and cleaning the relay contacts etc. I was testing it in the garage using just FM.
Bring it inside and hook up FM, Phono, and only tested the phono.

now testing and I get:
FM = good in both channels
Aux = good in both channels
Phono = signal drop/problems

so, now my question is, what's this look like as for repairing? Granted, this doesn't have to be used for phono if to much of a pain/investment.... can be used for aux/cd/fm

Thanks everyone! right when I thought I had narrowed it down from reading other threads about the relay, it turns out I just hadn't doubled back and checked all inputs.

 

[Dingman]

Well, ya done good at NOT going down the wrong road.. although I'd still change the relay, since it's not hard to do.
As far as the phono, i bet it's one of the 1345? transistors - they are known to get noisy. Another fix you can do - if you have the tools and knowledge to use them.

 

[savatage1973]

I guess it may be time to teach myself how to solder to boards or just take the chance that a relay replacement at $100 would do the trick. I would much rather just learn myself in the long run so this may be a good trial piece.

Emphasis added--this is really the way to go if you get sucked into this hobby like many of us have. Not only does it save you a LOT of money, but it adds a valuable skill-set to your knowledge base. It also helps to develop an understanding of the how and why something does or does not sound good.

If not this particular unit, just grab a "disposable" unit or some random boards from a "junker" and practice your basic desoldering/soldering skills. As you have probably already noticed, there are a lot of very knowledgeable folks on this site that are more than willing to help you with diagnostics and repairs. Use the search functions, and ask questions--it is more than likely that someone else has already encountered/addressed the issue you are having. If you don't already have them lying around, the basic tools to get started are a fairly minimal investment, and once you have them, you'll find yourself using them more and more.

Good luck--and welcome to "the journey"!

 

[Blue Shadow]

It is the 2 transistors 2SA458, known to go bad. Easy fix. The phono board is on the bottom of the unit and easily removed enough to allow access to the transistors. Use a KSC1845. Be sure to put it in correctly. Board is marked. Recapped board showing what you would look at. The board, 2 screws and two posts to take out and the board can come out enough to access the two transistors just above the green caps on the inside next to the gold cap on either side. The original cap will be axial, leads out the ends but this radial fits just fine and it a larger capacitance since this is the power supply cap for that board.

Solder sucker or solder wick, verify the orientation, remove, verify orientation of new transistor, solder in. Originals have leads bent over for firm mechanical attachment before soldering. Crown recommends this, a good mechanical connection before soldering, but Crown gear is handled professionally, think Samsonite suitcases and gorillas, this receiver might not get that treatment, bend over leads if you want before soldering. Put it back together.

 

[avionic]

Phono = signal drop/problems

Could still have a dirty input select switch.

 

[UncleBingo]

I am not experienced in soldering electrical boards, etc.
What kind of cost am I looking at for replacing relay in a 2240?
I am working on a 2240 acquired for $50. started out with lots of static and buttons sticking etc. After a good Deox'ing the buttons are smooth as can be and the static in the volume etc is gone. However I am experiencing the level drop out in the channels that many have described here. After searching and exploring, I working on the relay, cleaned the contacts and tested. I thought it was a complete success at first but I am still getting some channel drop out, not all the time, very intermittent.

anyone have experience with replacement cost? recommendations in the Nashville/Middle TN area?
Thanks in advance.

Any decent tech isn't going to take your word in regards to diagnosis. Doing that generally sets up a bad situation for the repairman. Take it in, tell them the SYMPTOM and let them diagnose it. Replacing parts is generally the easiest part of the job.

 

[Dingman]

Could still have a dirty input select switch.

You certainly are miles above me in diag\knowledge and I bet you can glow in the dark when you want to.

I was thinking of this when I went to the transistors~

After a good Deox'ing the buttons are smooth as can be and the static in the volume etc is gone.

 

[avionic]

Wafer switches can be a PITA sometimes.

 

[cjj2d]

MANY THANKS for all the comments, advice, etc....

I am going to take this sucker in and just let the tech check it out cause its acting up on all inputs now.

I am also going to do just as suggested and pick up a junker to practice on, cause this is an area I want to get better at. I use to do a lot of car audio throughout highschool and college (not just get loud, actual SQ setups) and love old vintage stuff.

I actually have a thread on here of my Thorens project I did, granted it was not near as in depth, but was fun and am ready to build my knowledge and skillset. And if anyone has the opportunity to work with Dave at VinylNirvana, he's is fantastic!!! He was very helpful.

just for fun... here's that thread http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....ew-plinth-from-vinyl-nirvana-gorgeous.653164/
here is my current setup...

 

[Bill S]

It's a nice receiver and pretty easy to work on. They're built well and perform above spec. They should produce an honest 50wpc output when up to snuff and the phono stage is pretty good. Once properly serviced, it should provide you many years of joy. Might want to consider LED lighting if you plan to keep it. That's something you could probably do yourself as long as you're careful not to burn through the tuner string when soldering in the bi-pin lamps. Wrap some foil lightly around the string before you get a solder pen near the string!!