2270 Restoration Questions

grunt

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Brought my beloved 2270 to a local shop to have it restored. They took it in, but reading the paperwork it doesn't sound like the complete restoration I was after.

The work order states, Problem Description: Would like it completely checked over. Replace all capacitors and resistors in power supply and output sections. Recap preamp section. Wants reliability and longevity. Replace lamps with LEDs.

This doesn't sound to me like the restorations I read about on this forum. It looks like a partial restoration. I am not even remotely an audio tech so I would greatly appreciate any feedback from the tech guys that frequent this forum. Does this sound like a restoration to you? Shouldn't the phono boards be recapped since I listen to a lot of vinyl? Doesn't this work order leave out a lot of other stuff that should be done? The shop owner assures me his tech is very fastidious and thorough.I stressed that I was far more concerned with thoroughness of the rebuild than I was cost. I'd have sent to one of our resident gurus on AK, but after the horror stories I've read about destruction in shipping (sometimes after great attention to protective packaging) the thought of sending my baby scares me away. I want as thorough of a restoration as i can get. My son loves this piece as much as I do. When I leave it to him I want it to be as good as possible.

Am I being paranoid? Should I get my Marantz back before it goes under the knife? I'll be grateful for anyone with more knowledge about this stuff to offer advice.


Thanks
 
The description sounds like a partial restoration. Which is not necessarily bad, but it does not sound like what you are looking for.

A complete replacement of electrolytic capacitors ("recapping") would include the boards mentioned plus the AM/FM boards (4 total) and the phono section. The output section is mentioned and that would be the two main amplifiers. The work order mentions "all capacitors" but typically only electrolytic capacitors would be replaced. Film and ceramic capacitors are left alone. Resistors would not usually be replaced either.

The work order does not mention the two big filter capacitors which are usually replaced in a restoration and that make a considerable difference in sound. And the protection relay is also often replaced. And there are a handful of transistors and diodes that are routinely replaced on the 2270.

There is a cost difference to do a full restoration. Not only the additional caps for the other boards but also the filter capacitors and the relay are usually the most expensive parts. And it adds a lot of time to do the tuner boards and an FM alignment, these are optional for a partial restoration.

None of this is meant to tell you to run from the tech. It sounds like they tried to write down what you asked. but more clarification is needed so they know what you want.

caveat: there is no fixed description for a partial or a complete restoration. What I referred to as 'typical' is what I see consensus for on AK. But waay more can be done than what I mentioned.
 
runningdog summed it up very well.
In addition there are multiple Marantz service bulletin upgrades that include , but not limited to, replacing the bias transistors on both amp boards,replacing any SC458 transistors on phono board and others.
Also renewing and VD type diodes.
Install a new suppression cap on power switch.
A full restoration also includes conversion of ALL the lamps (fuse,indicator and dial pointer) to LED and always renewing the meter and dial plate vellum with real vellum,not tissue paper ,your wife's baking parchment paper or a piece of blank copy paper.
Also "cleaning" the relay contacts is not an option.The contact tip plating is usually compromised after 40+ years.
Install a new one for crying out loud,they're readily available and cost less than $10.
The rubber isolation grommets on the tuner are renewed if applicable.

Finally a thorough cleaning ,polishing of all knobs ,faceplate,plastic dial and rear panel jacks along with a complete deoxit treatment of every control,pot and pushbutton switch.

Adjust bias ,dc offset,B+ and phono board voltages to factory specs along with a FM alignment.
Provide a complete bench test report of amp power and THD+N results.

I also run the unit for a minimum of 20-30 hours sitting next to me while I'm working in the next restoration.
As you can see there is a lot involved with a true full restoration and there isn't any way that it can be properly done in 8-10 hours as some may think.

Bob
 
Last edited:
<<snip>> A full restoration also includes conversion of ALL the lamps (fuse,indicator and dial pointer) to LED <<snip>>

I do not agree with this, "restoration" is restoration, LEDs are an alteration that some like, some (like me) do not and will pay money to change back to the original lamps.
 
I'm with Bob, I like to install LEDS because of reliability. Incandescent lamps may or may not survive a trip cross country.
If you pay someone to 'restore' your vintage receiver and pay shipping both ways, how would you feel if it arrived with a lamp out?
This is the same to me as the people who say they perform a 'full' restoration and don't replace all the parts that have exceeded their service life or are know to have a high failure rate.

Now, if you do your own gear, you can do as you please.
My 2 cents, YMMV

Tom
 
The original bulbs in a marantz survive a trip from the lamp manufacturer to the Marantz factory in Japan, then to the US to a distribution center, then to the store, all in a box on trucks/planes/ships. The trucks in '76 didn't have air-ride suspensions either, didn't even run radial tires most likely. After that, many of them lasted for another 30-40 years of use, transportation, parties, whatever they endured and yes some of those old suckers are original.

I understand that Marantz has some models where the light diffuser could get too hot and warped over those 40 years, and that is a bit of a problem, but then some of them did not (not all houses even had A/C in the '70s and '80s). So there is some rational argument that an LED mod is an improvement to these.

However taste and preference aside, restoration is restoration, and LEDs are a modification.

We can get into original color (LED is not full-spectrum light, and "white" LEDs are typically phosphor light that degrades over time just like a flourescent, plus most people use them on an un-filtered power source and they flicker, and in many they're too bright, etc. etc.).

So my point above that this is a modification and not restoration, should be a separate box to check or choice to make when one is having a receiver restored professionally just like changing the original capacitors to a different value is a modification not restoration.

If I had my '56 speedster out for some restoration work, and it came back with 18" alloy wheels and big Brembo brakes and HID headlamps there is no argument that it would have better performance, but it would no longer be my original '56 speedster.
 
It's ok ,
I give clients the choice of leds or staying with all new incandescent fuse lamps,dial pointer lamp and indicator lamps.
In all my years of doing restorations I have only had two clients request incandescents which is why I said what I did.

Btw,
I ,Tom and maybe a few others, use a premium phosphor coated LED fuse style lamp made by Don Haywood that are around $5 each that avoid the "strobe effect" that you're talking about.
The $1 apiece ones from ebay or others just don't cut the mustard in our restorations.


Bob
 
Last edited:
I'm in agreement with Randy(runningdog), Bob and Tom. The word I use is 'refurbishment' which I mean in the sense of 'restomod' would be to cars. I go for a tasteful restomod anyway! No solid blue LEDs or even cool white ones, only warm white and true red LEDs (>= 660nm color) for red colored callouts. I use an acid free art paper called Opalux to replace the old vellum. My units get my own custom designed and hand built warm white fuse LED lamps. Each has AC to DC conversion on the back and two larger flat SMD LED parts. Most also replace the cheap film caps in the tone control section with Wima polypropylenes when the values are available and they all are on a 2270.

So we vary a bit but the idea is the same. Increase the reliability and clarify the sound without altering the sonic signature of the original design.
 
The important thing is of course to enjoy what you have, or in the case of restorers to make the customer happy, which it appears takes advantage of the different choices that are available.
 
Back
Top Bottom