I don't see 2275 threads here very often so I hope this will help some of the other newbies like me. All credit has to go to Leestereo for his help with this restoration. I never, ever would have attempted such an extensive project if it wasn't for his offer of help. I know enough about electronics repair to be dangerous despite a lifetime of enjoyment of all things audio. I'll try to keep the updates coming on a regular basis to let you know what I've learned along the way. BTW, I'm firmly in the camp of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" so this puts me WAY outside my comfort zone. However, this AK forum is SO helpful to folks like me that I know you all won't let me get too far off script.
History
I picked up this 2275 from a guy here in Florida a few months ago. It was mostly functional (noisy controls, burnt out dial light, tuner out of alignment, etc.) and came with a fairly nice wood case. The only odd thing was the power cord which was not original. The seller told me that the original cord had been damaged and had been replaced. I didn't notice at the time (didn't even know to look!) that this was an international model. One of my
first posts here was about the odd wiring configuration I found coming off of the transformer which was missing the usual jumper wires. I replaced those jumpers, built my own DBT and held my breath....no problems.
Restoration
As I said, Leestereo was kind enough to help build a
spreadsheet for this project. Without his help, I might have done the P800 board, relamped to LED, got the tuner aligned and called it a day. But, with a false sense of security, I've plunged into it all the way.
Before I started the resto, I decided to open up the chassis and poke around. I saw that the original dial lamps had partially melted the plastic housing. So, I got a set of blue LEDs as well as a set of warm whites. The blues were TOO blue, so I opted to install the warm whites. As you can see in the first photo, those WW's had way too much green in their output.
(Also note the face feet....thanks to the AK'er who came up with that one!)
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Our own dwojo started stocking a new LED called "Pure White" and I just installed a set. It looks blue in this photo but is a very good neutral white color:
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Blue LEDs were WAY too blue for me so these Neutral Whites are perfect.
P800 Power Supply board
This was the first board I worked on as everybody here sees this board as the "heart" of the Marantz. Here's the original configuration and as you can see, this 2275 was amazingly clean and looked like it had very low hours on it except for the caps getting cooked by the resistor:
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Here's the P800 after fitting it with the new parts spec'd by Leestereo:
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Here's the parts list for P800 with Mouser part numbers in parentheses:
C801 - Original 220uF 63v / Now 470uF 63v (UPW1J471MHD3)
C802 - Original 100uF 50v / Now 220uF 50v (UPW1H221MPD)
C804 - Original 22uF 35v / Now 47uF 50v (UPS1H470MED)
C805 - Original 330uF 50v / Now 680 50v (UPW1H681MHD6)
C806 - Original 470uF 16v / Now 470uF 35v (UPW1V471MPD)
C807 - Original 4.7uF 50v / Now 10uF 50v (UPM1H100MDD)
C808 - Original 47uF 16v / Now 47uF 25v (EKY-250ELL470ME11D)
C809 - Original 220uF 10v / Now 220uF 35v (UPJ1V2211MPD6)
H808 - Original DS131B / Dual Diode (BYQ28E-200,127)
H811 - Original DS131B / Dual Diode (BYQ28E-200,127)
R807 - 150 ohm 5 watt / 150 ohm 7 watt (W221500JRLF)
L801 - MY2Z-02-DC22 relay / Now MY2-020DC24 (MY2-02DC24)
Coming up.....P700 power amp boards