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2510 - Parts ID and Advice

Discussion in 'Eico Place' started by Flip69, Dec 4, 2018.

  1. Flip69

    Flip69 Member

    Messages:
    91
    I am preparing to restore a 2510. I have not been able to find a build manual, user manual, service manual, parts list, or schematic (if anyone has any of them and is willing to share, please PM me). I am creating a parts list by going through the unit and seeing what is in there now. I am interested in your input, comments, and advice as I create my parts list.

    I plan to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors, and all of the carbon composite resistors. I do not plan to replace the ceramic disk capacitors. If there are parts you absolutely would or would not replace, please let me know.

    I am having trouble identifying some of the other components. I have attached photos. The numbers below refer to the numbers in the photos.

    1 - Is this a small PIO cap? If so, should I replace it? I normally would on a rig this old. I would probably use a polypropolene film cap, like an Illinois yellow drop. Thoughts?

    2 - Is this a wirewound resistor? If so, should I replace it? I would normally not replace wirewound resistors unless there was an issue. There are a number of wirewound resistors of various values used throughout the unit.

    3 - This looks like another PIO cap. Same questions as for 1 above.

    4 - These look like tantalum caps. If so, I would normally replace them with electrolytics. Not sure how to determine the value. All I see printed on them is "22" which might refer to 22uF.

    5 - Another PIO cap?

    6 - Not sure what this is.

    7 - These are 1N541 germanium diodes. Replace them? That is what I would normally to do.

    8 - This looks like an old Black Beauty style capacitor. I would typically replace it with an Illinois yellow drop, or something like that.

    9 - These gold things look like larger PIO caps. (I know the photo is not the greatest.) Not sure what to do with them, i.e., keep or replace. I feel like I should leave them, unless there is a specific issue (maybe because they are so nice and shiny).

    10 - I expect these are film resistors, maybe carbon film. There are many of them throughout the unit. I would not normally replace film resistors unless there was a specific problem.

    Thank you for your input. When I have the parts list finalized, I will post it.

    2510 1.jpg 2510 2.jpg 2510 3.jpg
     

     

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  2. audiocarp

    audiocarp New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Jamaica, NY, USA
    # 1 is an electrolytic: Just an aluminum can with goop inside. Change it! # 2 appears to be a capacitor going by the markings. # 3 and # 5 are polystyrene capacitors which never seem to go bad. # 4 might be a tantalum or a film capacitor; leave alone. Such a small cap cannot be 22 microfarads. More like 22 picofarads, 220 pf, 2200 pF. (You need a way to measure capacitor values.) # 6 is another film capacitor. # 7 are diodes; why on earth would you replace them? # 8 is a plastic capacitor. I replace them as a matter of course. (I think Illinois is a cheesy brand. I prefer Panasonic or Wima.) # 9: Not sure; but they look like electrolytics. (Almost any capacitor 1uF and up will be electrolytic.) # 10: Yes, they look like carbon film resistors. Before you tear into this, make doubly sure this unit is functioning perfectly. If it ain't, fix it before you do the restoration. Because if it doesn't work afterwards, you'll have a helluva time trying to figure out whether you made a mistake or it's the existing problem (which could get worse all on its own). Also it's important to record all the DC voltages on all tube pins before restoration.
     
  3. Flip69

    Flip69 Member

    Messages:
    91
    Thank you very much for the response! I confirmed that 1 is an electrolytic. I also confirmed that the two 9 caps are electrolytic. I have no problem leaving the diodes alone. I agree that the markings on 2 indicate capacitor. They just look so much like wirewound resistors. Wish I had the manual!

    I have now gone through both of the board and the chassis. I have a parts list, which I will post after I double check everything.
     

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