2sd588 and 2sb618 replacements
- Thread starter Alfonsol
- Start date
Nope.Wrong case style--- 3858 is a MT-200. 588 is a TO-3PL
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1217447&postcount=1
These onsemis should do the job just fine..
2SD588-----MJL4281AG http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtn7beagP2hITDI/IpVDSPu%2bjUv0NmDCSc=
2SB618-----MJL4302AG http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtn7beagP2hITDI/IpVDSPu%2bjUv0NmDCSc=
Both available at Mouser for around $6 a piece..
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1217447&postcount=1
These onsemis should do the job just fine..
2SD588-----MJL4281AG http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtn7beagP2hITDI/IpVDSPu%2bjUv0NmDCSc=
2SB618-----MJL4302AG http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtn7beagP2hITDI/IpVDSPu%2bjUv0NmDCSc=
Both available at Mouser for around $6 a piece..
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OverLoad
High On Solder Fumes
Actually they aren't TO-3P(L) either. These are the batwing style transistors.
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
Yep, have fun figuring out insulators and how to mount a sub to the heatsink when you have to replace 588/618s!
OverLoad
High On Solder Fumes
Appropriate TO-220's with a bar clamp using the exsisting mounting holes is really not all that difficult. You don't have to mutilate anything eitherYep, have fun figuring out insulators and how to mount a sub to the heatsink when you have to replace 588/618s!
You could showhorn in something like a TO-3P depending on space as well. Of course some drilling and tapping will be in order.
OverLoad
High On Solder Fumes
Well it's possible someone might be interested in what you did. Not much point of chiming in you did something but can't provide any insight or details.
I think the easiest solution would be TO-220's BUT finding something suitable for the batwing transistors in question might prove to be difficult and I'm not interested in doing somebody's leg work. If it were me, I'd probably shoehorn in some TO-3P's.
I think the easiest solution would be TO-220's BUT finding something suitable for the batwing transistors in question might prove to be difficult and I'm not interested in doing somebody's leg work. If it were me, I'd probably shoehorn in some TO-3P's.
Thanks for the answers.
I asked because i have an amplifier thas uses these outputs.
fortunately the outputs in my amplifier are fine( or i think so), but this amp is known to easily blow the outputs, and i want to know a replacement if the ones in my amp fail.
The amp is the silver sa-5030, i made a thread here when i was reparing it.
when i got it it was completely dead. i resoldered lots of cold solder joints, changed a fusable resistor that was open, changed almost all caps,adjusted the bias and cleaned it, because it was very dirty.
now it works fine, but there are two issues can't fix.
offset 30mv right, -30mv left. i changed the differential pair with no luck. also it have some distortion in the highs, but not very noticeable.
someone said to me that the distortion can be caused by a bad output, but i don't know how to test it. they arenot shorted, because the fuse doesn't blow, ad i got sound through the speakers. and they are not open, because can adjust the bias measurin voltage in the emitter resistors. is there another way the outputs can fail?
I asked because i have an amplifier thas uses these outputs.
fortunately the outputs in my amplifier are fine( or i think so), but this amp is known to easily blow the outputs, and i want to know a replacement if the ones in my amp fail.
The amp is the silver sa-5030, i made a thread here when i was reparing it.
when i got it it was completely dead. i resoldered lots of cold solder joints, changed a fusable resistor that was open, changed almost all caps,adjusted the bias and cleaned it, because it was very dirty.
now it works fine, but there are two issues can't fix.
offset 30mv right, -30mv left. i changed the differential pair with no luck. also it have some distortion in the highs, but not very noticeable.
someone said to me that the distortion can be caused by a bad output, but i don't know how to test it. they arenot shorted, because the fuse doesn't blow, ad i got sound through the speakers. and they are not open, because can adjust the bias measurin voltage in the emitter resistors. is there another way the outputs can fail?
Anybody have and accurate spec sheet..I looked at a couple showing these as TO-3P and MT-100 ..Obviously not correct..What case style is the "batwing" TO-220?Or some oddball number?
ecluser
Super Member
If you want to replace the original transistors for subs with the same leg spacing, you have no choice but to use transistors in TO-220 body.
The original are rated at 80W
Possible substitutes are FJP5200/FJP1943 (80W)or BD911/BD912 (90W)
See Mouser or Digikey
If you can squeeze a TO3P transistor, your choice is large.
The original are rated at 80W
Possible substitutes are FJP5200/FJP1943 (80W)or BD911/BD912 (90W)
See Mouser or Digikey
If you can squeeze a TO3P transistor, your choice is large.
adc002
Active Member
I got some of the MJL4821AG to replace the 2SD588. Man, they are huge!!! I can drill to make them fit but someone, somewhere has to make something closer. I also got a few 511-BD911s but not sure if they are decent replacements for the 588's or the 618's. They fit perfectly, however ecluser's post doesn't say which one they are decent replacements for. If anyone knows, the information is greatly appreciated. I have changed all other outputs and am anxious to see what she's gonna do.
FootFungus
Super Member
Pnp bd912/fjp1943 = 2sb618
npn bd911/fjp5200 = 2sd588
EDIT: Actually the BD911/912 parts only work if you can get away with 100v VCE. The 2sb618/2sb588 have a VCB rating of 140. I haven't found any info on VCE, but it could very well be 120v or 140v. So I'd only use the BD parts if the rails were under 40v.
npn bd911/fjp5200 = 2sd588
EDIT: Actually the BD911/912 parts only work if you can get away with 100v VCE. The 2sb618/2sb588 have a VCB rating of 140. I haven't found any info on VCE, but it could very well be 120v or 140v. So I'd only use the BD parts if the rails were under 40v.
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KingBubba
"Too Much Stuff"
The following threads addressed dealing with your situation. In the later thread, Markthefixer made a more up to date substitution for this type of work around. You can use the old transistors to hold down the new transistors instead of having to make special hold down plates. The Mica from the old transistors can be trimmed to work for the new ones. Here is what he suggested:
as for the transistors:
the sa-9500ii originals are
2sb618a pnp batwing bce 150v 7a 80w 80hfe 14mhz
2sd588a npn batwing bce 150v 7a 80w 80hfe 14mhz
863-MJE15033G pnp to-220 bce 250v 8a 50w 30mhz 70hfe $0.87
863-MJE15032G npn to-220 bce 250v 8a 50w 30mhz 70hfe $0.87
(more powerful to-220 replacements for the batwing transistors...
512-FJP1943OTU pnp to-220 bce 230v 15a 80w 30mhz 80-160hfe $1.21
512-FJP5200OTU npn to-220 bce 230v 15a 80w 30mhz 80-160hfe $0.85
This is the original thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=108465
This is the followup:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=108465
There may be some info in these threads that are worth your reading since you are dealing with the batwing transistors.
as for the transistors:
the sa-9500ii originals are
2sb618a pnp batwing bce 150v 7a 80w 80hfe 14mhz
2sd588a npn batwing bce 150v 7a 80w 80hfe 14mhz
863-MJE15033G pnp to-220 bce 250v 8a 50w 30mhz 70hfe $0.87
863-MJE15032G npn to-220 bce 250v 8a 50w 30mhz 70hfe $0.87
(more powerful to-220 replacements for the batwing transistors...
512-FJP1943OTU pnp to-220 bce 230v 15a 80w 30mhz 80-160hfe $1.21
512-FJP5200OTU npn to-220 bce 230v 15a 80w 30mhz 80-160hfe $0.85
This is the original thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=108465
This is the followup:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=108465
There may be some info in these threads that are worth your reading since you are dealing with the batwing transistors.
FootFungus
Super Member
The MJE15032/33 parts seem like possibly poor subs. The gain collapses quickly after 1 amp. The MJE15030/31 are better, making it to 2-3 amps before completely collapsing, but don't have the SOA. Go with the FJP parts.
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That's why they make for a good driver transistor, where they are never going to carry anywhere near an amp of current. They don't work that well as output transistors for the reason you mentioned. Got a pile of the Fairchild devices for that (but they are being phased out and stocks will be zero any day).
Missed this before.
merrylander
AK Member
The Yamaha CR-2040 uses those 'batwing' style outputs. B&D Enterprises recommended some Sankens as subs, holes line up perfectly just need bigger insulators.
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