3D printing Rectilinear Highboy badges

Discussion in 'Speakers' started by tyella, Jan 19, 2019.

  1. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    If I had some Ohm speakers needing badges, I might give it a go! I'm not into production mode or anything.
    In Tinkercad, creating insets is fairly simple. It wouldn't be too difficult to make a copy. But, Ohm is still in operation and presumably has lawyers....
     

     

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  2. Pete B

    Pete B AK Member Subscriber

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    I might spring for the CR-10 from the same company:


    I actually don't want to have another gadget but the price is so good
    and I could really use one.
     
  3. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Now's the time!
    Interesting video. My printer came mostly assembled. The rocking the guy is describing can be cured in about 2 minutes by backing out a couple of screws, leveling and retightening. A stable machine would help with his fuzzy print, too.

    I'm looking forward to learning the software, because valid uses of 3D prints keep occurring to me. I'm just terribly limited by my ability to do the software layout.
    Lost speaker badges, driver trim rings, feet, replacing broken light shrouds inside receivers, AM antenna brackets, etc. I'm working on a case for a TPA3116 amp right now.
     
  4. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  5. Pete B

    Pete B AK Member Subscriber

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    I got the Ender 3 and finished building it today; it is printing the test dog now.

    Did you use any particular tutorials on how to get the most out of TinkerCad, I know it is
    very simple but I'd like to use as much of the capability as possible when I try something.
    I started a design and did not get very far.
     
  6. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I started with this one:
    and then watched a couple of others. The "grouping" and "alignment" tools were very useful for creating the Rectilinear Logo. I don't recall if they're covered in this video or not.

    Did you get a printer?
     

     

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  7. Bucky Badger

    Bucky Badger AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  8. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Oops. I just reread and realized I missed the first sentence. How did the print turn out? There's usually not enough supplied filament for the test dog. I hope you picked up some filament, too!
     
  9. Pete B

    Pete B AK Member Subscriber

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    Tried to print it with the white and it was not enough.
    I bought 1 Kg of black and it is almost finished now.
    It is making an intermittent clunking sound that I can't figure out so far,
    but seems to be printing just fine.
     
  10. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Great news! Mine clunks a bit, too. I think it's the X axis motor, maybe check your belt for tightness?

    Without getting too far into the weeds here, I will say that this has been a great resource: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/
    Lots of folks take pictures of their problems and other folks chime in to help.
     
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  11. Pete B

    Pete B AK Member Subscriber

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    I finally noticed that the extruder feed motor feeds, then snaps back perhaps for
    when the print head makes large moves no idea for sure. But the snap back is
    what makes the clunk sound.

    The dog came out nice for the first 80% the last 20 is very stringy - have to dig into the problem.
     

     

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  12. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Sounds like a clog in the nozzle. Often the PTFE tube isn't cut perfectly perpendicular to the coupler at the hot end or the coupler comes loose. Try the approach in this video:

    This guy's videos are great. His is the one I used to assemble my printer. Much better than the included instructions.

    Afterward, put a zip tie around the release for the PTFE tube coupler, or print out a spacer to keep it tight. I just ordered some new couplers and will switch it out if the problems arises again. So far so good, though!

    It might not be a bad idea to order a couple of extra couplers and some extra PTFE tubing. If you cut off too much tubing, the line may be too short.
     
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  13. Pete B

    Pete B AK Member Subscriber

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    I followed that procedure and the clank sound is gone and it is printing fine again.
    It looks like mine has the upgraded parts and it came with snap in spacers to
    lock them, it also has the silicone boot for the end heater.
    Thanks, this is great I'm printing a speaker part now.
     
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  14. Pete B

    Pete B AK Member Subscriber

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  15. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Well, I'm curious to see what part you come up with!

    The uses for audio DIY and repair/replacement, are abundant. Maybe I'll start a 3D printer thread over in DIY. I'm finding that more and more uses occur to me as this tool finds a place in my mental toolbox. Yesterday I printed out some spacers for a misaligned blower fan in my Volvo.

    And thanks for the tip on that software, I'm downloading it now!
     
  16. Pete B

    Pete B AK Member Subscriber

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    tyella likes this.

     

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  17. dzkfraser

    dzkfraser Well-Known Member

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    I made some of these using resin casting. Takes some trial and error to get it right but came out pretty good.
     
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  18. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  19. Pete B

    Pete B AK Member Subscriber

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    My nephew drew it in about 1/2 an hour in Solid Works, he's an ME.
    That was a draft version with 20% fill and not very thick walls. Seems to me that solid
    would be the best or at least the outer 12 mm or so.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019 at 10:03 AM
  20. tyella

    tyella AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Agreed. You don't want that baffle to vibrate. The extra hour or so of printing is inconsequential in the big picture.
     

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