3D printing thread - Who's printing what?

The inserts were 1/8" plexiglass milled down to 1/16" I'm surprised there are metal like plastics that are able to be polished, the only downfall is that they are not as strong.
 
Tyella: Amen! I had tried several "simplier" solid model apps, combined with printers that did not yet have adequate resolution. That just wasn't working for me at the time. I'm an obstinate SOB, and I just kept trying.

What you did with TinkerCad looks impressive. My model had thousands of "points" and I have often wondered if that helped improve the resolution of the finished product. One thing that does help is having the right tools and being able to take precise measurements of the original.

I also pinch pennies and was able to buy an older copy of some S/W that was capable of doing everything I needed (and more!).
 
Printed what I'm going to call a component holder since it does not have copper on
the back. The plan is to use the component leads or buss wire to make the connections.
This is for a Minimus 7 mod, one simpler than the PZ-2.3:
The "board is 2mm thick but I plan to redo it 4mm thick:
The woofer inductor hangs off the bottom and should be glued to the bottom.
I should also mention that a soldering iron will melt the PLA, so twist the leads, lift them or put
a flat putty knife under them and then solder, something to protect the PLA while soldering.
M7 XO PLATE.jpg
 
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Looks great, Pete!
Will there be a standoff behind the panel, to keep the connections from touching the back of the cabinet? I haven't opened up my M7s to see what's in there, so I don't know.

Printed what I'm going to call a component holder since it does not have copper on
the back. The plan is to use the component leads or buss wire to make the connections.
This is for a Minimus 7 mod, one simpler than the PZ-2.3:
The "board is 2mm thick but I plan to redo it 4mm thick:
View attachment 1453866
 
Thanks,
The way that it mounts it is about 1/4" away from the back panel, but there are posts
that will touch it and I'm not sure what will be needed there. Last time I used stick on
foam tape to prevent rattles or shorts.
This is rev. 1 so we'll see how it goes.
 
Has anyone had any experience with a 3D printed object using a metallic "ink"? I am looking for a 3mm shaft that can take ~ 50 inch-ounces of torque, or ~¼ ft-lb.
 
Has anyone had any experience with a 3D printed object using a metallic "ink"? I am looking for a 3mm shaft that can take ~ 50 inch-ounces of torque, or ~¼ ft-lb.
A friend of mine tried metallic brass last year, and said it was not nearly as strong as standard PLA
 
Has anyone had any experience with a 3D printed object using a metallic "ink"?

You'll be looking at a laser sintering powdered metal printer for that sort of thing.

For a simple shaft, I'd go for conventional machining; cheaper, quicker, stronger, more accurate.
 
They've always said it. PLA releases microparticulates. ABS releases styrene. That's why we have our 3D printer in a fume extractor cabinet.

I get terrified by adverts I see on the Chinese marketplace websites for things like 5W UV laser diode assemblies for CNC engraving tools, sold to unsuspecting Joe Public...
 
They've always said it. PLA releases microparticulates. ABS releases styrene. That's why we have our 3D printer in a fume extractor cabinet.

I get terrified by adverts I see on the Chinese marketplace websites for things like 5W UV laser diode assemblies for CNC engraving tools, sold to unsuspecting Joe Public...
The fumes are what's kept me from trying ABS.
RE: the laser, are you concerned about hapless Joe's eyes, starting of fires, or is there another danger? I will admit I was intrigued by the idea of engraving, and I am unsuspecting.
 
Needed to hold 4 solenoids to control the waste gates. No room in the engine bay to mount on the fender well so hung it over my A/C line.

12-14-11_007.JPG

Sol-Pack1.JPG
 
Needed to hold 4 solenoids to control the waste gates. No room in the engine bay to mount on the fender well so hung it over my A/C line.

12-14-11_007.JPG

Sol-Pack1.JPG

That's a crazy amplifier (just kidding!)
Looks like an engine thing. I hope you are aware that PLA is very heat sensitive and prone to warping, etc.
 
That's a crazy amplifier (just kidding!)
Looks like an engine thing. I hope you are aware that PLA is very heat sensitive and prone to warping, etc.

Very cool!

Can 3D printers be used to make something like a plastic track for a sliding window?
 
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