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5000A replace f1040 with f6013

Discussion in 'Exclusively Sansui' started by DIPO, Oct 10, 2018.

  1. DIPO

    DIPO Member

    Messages:
    57
    OK, I started this little adventure back in Sept. 2017 and have been working on and off ever since, did the f1040 retrofit and blew up one the of the boards. Poor quality soldering, bought some new f6013 boards from bonzorro and installed them, set bias, numbers are LC 21.1 mA, RC 20.9 mA, put fuses back in and checked transistors as described in service manual, 809 -37.3 V DC, 807-21.4 V DC, 810-37.3 V DC, 808-21.1 V DC. Did the DC check as described here and got 2.2 mV and 3.4 mV. bonzorro has been more than helpful in guiding me through this effort. At a lost as to what to do next so thought I would post this to the Sansui world and see if there is anyone out there who can help or guide me to get the 807/808 V DC up. bonzorro said the numbers for 807/808 should be near or the same as the 809/810 numbers. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks dipo.
     

     

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  2. DIPO

    DIPO Member

    Messages:
    57
    OK, dipo here again, so I took the front plate off of my 5000a to clean and make sure all bulbs were working. Everything working and saw no reason to change bulbs, cleaned face plate (used ICE car polish) worked great and gave the plate a new deep shiny look. Problem is when I put the face plate back on it barely lights up, before cleaning it lit up pretty good, bulbs are all working, just cant figure out why the plate won't light up correctly. Anybody got any ideas??
     
  3. DIPO

    DIPO Member

    Messages:
    57
    Ok, 5000a rebuild is complete and the unit works just fine. Thanks to bonzorro for all the help and for the parts. Bye now.
     
  4. jberger

    jberger AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,107
    Location:
    Long Beach, CA
    A question for you, since I'm doing the same changeout on a 5000:

    The F-1040 boards have two braided ground connections that are soldered to the chassis; they need to be removed before the boards can be pulled out. Did you unsolder them at the board level (and how did you resolder, as access is tight), or did you unsolder the braid from the chassis using a higher-wattage iron?
     
  5. Guido57

    Guido57 New Member

    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    CT
    I also got a pair of 6013 boards from bonzorro. The instructions I got from him were to use the fittings that hold the boards to the chassis as the grounds and not use the braid, just clean every thing for a good connection. My first 1040 board removal I used two 25 watt irons at the board, the second board I just cut them. There's a lot of solder there. Bonzorro's boards have much nicer workmanship than original Sansui boards and priced about the same as old Sansui boards on ebay.
     
  6. jberger

    jberger AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,107
    Location:
    Long Beach, CA
    I moved the other board out of the way, and I've been slowly hitting it with my soldering gun, solder sucker, and pick to work the braid slowly loose.
     

     

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  7. Guido57

    Guido57 New Member

    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    CT
    Significance of preserving the braid may depend on your replacement boards. Bonzorro's boards do not have as large a grounding surface at the bottom of the board that the Sansui originals do. I didn't loose much by cutting my braids since there wasn't a large copper pad to connect to.
     
  8. Guido57

    Guido57 New Member

    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    CT
    Somewhere on AK is a post from someone who gives fairly detailed instructions on removing and installing the boards. The subject was doing a modification on the 1040 boards, not replacing them with 6013's but they were the most detailed instructions on this aspect of the job. I'll post the link if I can relocate it.
     
  9. Guido57

    Guido57 New Member

    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    CT
    jberger likes this.
  10. DIPO

    DIPO Member

    Messages:
    57
    Sorry I haven't been on in awhile, my recommendation is that if you have a 5000 or 5000a, and it has the f1049 boards, buy the new boards from bonzorro, and change them out. I'm no elect tech and screwed up the f1040 retro fit and had to buy new boards anyway. The instructions I got from bonzorro were good, photograph every thing and I mean everything, you won't regret doing it, take your time, and follow the instructions bonzorro gives you. Will save you time and money. If installing the new boards you have to scrape the green covering off the boards where the board connects to the amp. If you do this you do not need the grounding straps. I replaced the old boards with the bonzorro boards and my 48 year old 5000a works perfectly. Buying the new boards was best thing I could have done. Believe me you won't regret it.
     

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