5000X "Unserviceable"? :(

Thanks. It's a little more pricey than I was looking for, but with 6 Sansuis and little chance I will stop until I acquire a x0x0, a QRX-x001, and a 929 or 838 turntable, I guess I'll be using it for a while. :)
I'd bite the bullet and do it, you won't know yourself, it makes the jobs easier and more satisfying. It will last a lifetime...
 
Oh my goodness, took a peak at new desoldering stations, my my how THOSE prices have escalated in ten years compared to when I bought mine :(
 
Oh my goodness, took a peak at new desoldering stations, my my how THOSE prices have escalated in ten years compared to when I bought mine :(
I actually bought my Pace station second hand out of Europe (same voltage as NZ), had new elements in the iron, X-tractor, and Tongs. Has the "shop air" so I'm connected to my compressor....
They even sent me a bunch of tips and solder traps.....was a really good deal, got it for about 10% of the cost of a new one!!
As you say these things have become rather expensive in the last few years, but I had to make the move as the volume of work has increased so much...
The Pace gear is really good to use...
 
Hakko purchased. Waiting for it to arrive soon. Looks like the FETs will get here on Thursday, so I'll play the waiting game until the Amazon order comes through. Plenty of playing I can do with the audio stage until then.
 
Hakko purchased. Waiting for it to arrive soon. Looks like the FETs will get here on Thursday, so I'll play the waiting game until the Amazon order comes through. Plenty of playing I can do with the audio stage until then.
Good Man, you'll never regret it!!

Have you got a good way of doing solder extraction?
 
Good Man, you'll never regret it!!

Have you got a good way of doing solder extraction?

I have a solder sucker (bulb-type) which has been okay in the past, but I bought solder braid as I've read that works more effectively.
 
I have a solder sucker (bulb-type) which has been okay in the past, but I bought solder braid as I've read that works more effectively.

That should get the job done, the good dr*audio always mentions the braid in these discussions.
to be honest, the gear I have is full on and expensive as I do a lot and it saves me a lot of time, but braid, and pump type extractors are fine really for the kind of tinkering your doing....I used them for years for home jobs before I ended up moving my Lab and working from home...
 
I'm slightly excited to get back into this; recapping my 2000 and 2000Xs were a challenge, and I even replaced an old 2SC458 that was noisy as heck. I suspect that will be the root cause of my right channel noise (diagnosing that tomorrow), and if I'm lucky I still have some 2SC2240s to swap in for 2SC632As in the EQ board on the 5000X. I was proud of myself for the diag (with help from AK, of course) and they sounded great-- still do!

But really kinda spooked about the dual FET just because of all the narrow spaces, and some teeny freaking wires (like the ones for the coils). As you guys have pointed out, I can't make it worse than "not working", so I guess I shouldn't be so worried about it.
 
Just go slowly and be very gentle and patient and you will do fine. Brace your soldering hand by resting your pinky on the work or the bench. If you have a junk receiver you can practice operating on the tuner beforehand.
 
Another vote for Hakko
I've since got both soldering and desoldering stations
( i didn't think I did enough work to warrant it but I'm glad I did):thumbsup:
 
I'm slightly excited to get back into this; recapping my 2000 and 2000Xs were a challenge, and I even replaced an old 2SC458 that was noisy as heck. I suspect that will be the root cause of my right channel noise (diagnosing that tomorrow), and if I'm lucky I still have some 2SC2240s to swap in for 2SC632As in the EQ board on the 5000X. I was proud of myself for the diag (with help from AK, of course) and they sounded great-- still do!

But really kinda spooked about the dual FET just because of all the narrow spaces, and some teeny freaking wires (like the ones for the coils). As you guys have pointed out, I can't make it worse than "not working", so I guess I shouldn't be so worried about it.

One thing to think about, is plan where you will put the iron, before you get in there. With circuit boards it's never a concern, but with point to point, you have to be really careful not to burn adjacent wire insulation, or a nearby capacitor, etc. A little bit of thinking ahead goes a long way, even if it means moving the iron to your left hand occasionally. Sometimes if I'm soldering in a real "jungle", I check clearances with a harmless screwdriver before jumping in with an iron.
 
One thing I do to protect nearby components is make a little shield out of thin flexible metal, like brass, and set it against the component, wire or dial cord I want to protect. You can tape it in place if you have to.
 
All good suggestions, folks, thanks!

In what I think is better news, my right channel audio problem seems pretty subtle and I suspect it will go away with a recap-- there's no actual noise on the circuit, but it seems like some frequencies are being filtered differently on the left and right channels, which to me suggests but does not prove "capacitor".
 
All good suggestions, folks, thanks!

In what I think is better news, my right channel audio problem seems pretty subtle and I suspect it will go away with a recap-- there's no actual noise on the circuit, but it seems like some frequencies are being filtered differently on the left and right channels, which to me suggests but does not prove "capacitor".
This can be old caps but it can also be a bad speaker relay.
 
Oddly, after a recapping the discrepancy still exists. Of course, on looking at the schematic again, I now note a ganged LEVEL ADJUST pot in the signal path between the EQ board and the REVERSE button. Either that or the button itself is likely the source of the issue. It's possible it's one of the transistors in the EQ board, but I'd think a transistor issue would manifest differently (pops, crackles).

I would have recapped that board eventually anyway, so no labor lost, and I wanted some practice with the Hakko before tackling the FET replacement in the tuner. But DAMN, wish I would have noticed that before and hit it with DeOxit before breaking out the iron.:crazy:
 
Commandeered the Wife's craft table for my set up.

To remind all because it's been like a year, the task was replacement of a dual n-FET (the "mixer" FET103) since it was 3 ohms drain to source and presumably shorted.

Acquired Signetics 40673 on the recommendation of dr*audio. Did final check (is this really the right transistor? where am I in danger of screwing something up in the tight space?) and then desoldered the original 3SK-39, trying hard not to break anything else. It was non-trivial... some of the coil wires, particularly, are really tiny. This was right after I desoldered the drain...20180714_110709.jpg

The old FET had a plastic jacket, likely to isolate the can from other circuitry (the can is and is supposed to be shorted to the source, near as I can tell). I removed it and fitted it to the new FET... probably didn't matter, but why not?

Followed instructions to attach source first, then drain, then the gates (plot twist: the schematic showed gate 1 attached to what was in the actual stereo the gate 2 circuitry... I followed the actual stereo connectivity, obviously--based on what I could discern it shouldn't matter, but it would actually have been a more complicated deal to slavishly try to match the schematic, so why do so?).

The soldering went okay. One thing that went wrong near the end was on reattaching the L103 coil wire: can't tell if it broke or if the insulation melted and flowed over the end of the wire, but I had to strip the insulation back in a space where no wire strippers could get. Ended up cutting it with my fingernails and pulling the insulation snippet out using two pairs of pliers [shudder]. I think it's shorter now, but what're ya gonna do?

20180714_131256.jpg

Best I could do. Made sure I checked all solder joints with my ohmmeter to verify they were getting connectivity on both sides. Checked drain-to-source resistance: 115 ohms. Much better than 3. Checked overall tuner power supply to ground resistance: 143 ohms. Better than 83 ohms (previous value).

Time to add power... I plugged the 5000X in, set to AM. Verified the expected 14V at AM incoming, then grimaced as I turned the Selector to FM, half expecting popping noises and to see the magic smoke released. Nothing. So far so good. Checked incoming power to the tuner. 14V... if you'll recall, before the FET replacement, it was like 6V. Yet another small victory.

Turning the tuning dial gave me very little on the signal dial... but wait, was that a fluctuation? Eff it, speaker time... and lo and behold, real actual sound. Plugged in an antenna (okay, so it was just a couple of alligator-clipped wires), and... tears of joy...

20180714_131312.jpg

She works, folks. It's a lovely thing, and I have you guys to thank for the inspiration and guidance.

I still have some stuff to do... while the FM STEREO indicator fluctuates in and out, pressing the FM STEREO ONLY button in basically kills any station, even if it's at Signal 4 or above. Would love some advice there; suspect it's either some kind of alignment issue or something in the demux circuitry...

But overall, I am proud to flip the middle finger at the service shop guys.

"Unserviceable" my ass. Unserviceable no more. ;)
 
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