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500c Rundown and Refurb Questions

Discussion in 'Fisher' started by Csermonet47, Apr 18, 2017.

  1. Csermonet47

    Csermonet47 New Member

    Messages:
    19
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Hey everyone,

    I just picked up this 500c off of Craigslist for a good deal. I was originally going to sell it, but I realized I would likely never have the chance to own something like this at that price ever again, so I have decided to get it whipped back into shape.

    It had been sitting naked in a wood working shop for who knows how long so it was pretty crusty. It appears to be mostly original though. He fired it up and let me hear it work and it sounded good, but I would still like to go through it before actually using it.

    I have been doing some heavy reading on here the last few days, and so far my plans so far include:

    - Metalbone Kit
    - Hayseed Cap Can Kit
    - Remove and clean all pots and switches
    - New knob caps
    - New (old) face plate
    - Figure out something for an on/off switch
    - General deep cleaning
    - Cabinet eventually

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Unfortunately the original on/off switch broke and the previous owner drilled a big hole in the face plate for a new one. I figured I can just get it mechanically solid and once a nice face plate pops up for sale, I will hop on it. So if anyone knows of a clean one for sale, please let me know.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The black wire on top does not appear to be original. any idea what is going on there?

    [​IMG]

    This is the only other area that I see that is obviously not original. Does anyone see anything else that jumps out at them?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Any other recommendations on areas that might need to be addressed? Thank you in advance!
     
  2. notdigital

    notdigital AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,183
    Location:
    NYNY
    That black wire looks to be a part of the remedy for a failed on/off switch. It looks like it energizes the convenience outlets when turned on by the toggle. The wires to that switch look like they run behind the face plate with that BIG UGLY HOLE! Sorry...drives me a little nuts when someone mangles a perfectly fine face plate like that. They do come up at auction every now and then so I'll agree with your instinct to get a replacement.

    Other than the bullet hole and the alternative wiring, everything looks to be stock. MetalB is a good place to start. There are other things you can do. If you've gone through both 500c and 800c threads, most everything that you'd want to or need to do has been covered. The wonderful thing about this particular forum is that restorations are documented with an eye toward the future should someone want to do research. It's reading well worth it.

    The switch portion of the volume pot is missing. If you are going to restore it to factory spec, you'll have to source a replacement. They too come up but they've been pricey.

    Get the basics done first and decide what additional things you want to do after it is solidly up and running.

    Good luck!
     
  3. Tim D

    Tim D AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    568
    Location:
    Melbourne, FL
    Keep your eyes open for the switch. You might find one in BT here or on the big auction site or maybe someone will pop in and offer a replacement. Once you get it replaced you might want to do a common mod to put in-rush current limiters in the primary circuit of the power supply that will be more electrically gentle on the new switch. Typical part to do this would be a CL-80 Thermistor (for in-rush current limiting).

    I just picked up a 500-B that is in my queue to refurb. I got 3 pieces at the same time which included the 500-B, an KM-60 Tuner (kit version), and a KX-100 amp (kit version). I'm working on the amp right now in another thread and getting lots of help from kind AK members. I started with the amp because it was deemed it a simpler project. Good luck with your project! Enjoy.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
  4. biscuithead

    biscuithead Me likes the eargasm retroplasm... Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,825
    Location:
    Northern Colorado
    I once had a 400 that former owner had drilled a hole in the face... I put in an "on" lamp... Green giant glass jewel... it looked cool, but was in a bad place.
    I used a metal bone kit on my 800b, JJ caps, inrush limiter, and Macintosh cabinet. She is one of my #1 pieces. Good luck!
     
  5. AlTinkster92

    AlTinkster92 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,894
    Location:
    NC
    Mark Oppat has the on/off switches, he's a member here on AK. Good Luck with your restoration.. AL
     
  6. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    19,314
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    One of these days I'd like to have a 500c come across my bench. I've done enough 800c and 400's (another 400 on the bench now) that I could probably do a rehab on it in my sleep.
     
  7. AlTinkster92

    AlTinkster92 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,894
    Location:
    NC
    Had to check in and see what going on, Larry, it's now 2400 hours and bedcheck. Formation at 0600. no sick call and PT at 0730. Oh, and the usual in the mess hall.....go to bed fer cripes sake. Al :)
     
  8. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    19,314
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    Reveille is 0500, and short arm inspection(You hold yer own), is at 0600 after a 3 mile RUN, followed by S.O.S. in the Mess. Al you're designated Barracks Fire-watch for the next week for opening the pie hole under yer snot locker while on duty, so says the GUNNY! So zip it up and check the head for friction fires, and watch out for milky streams.

    Now back to your regularly scheduled 500c restoration thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Csermonet47; The 500c is just an 800c without the AM band circuitry, and minor differences in the FM and mpx sections. The power supply wil have slightly different voltages, but the output section is almost identical to the 800c. So pretty much anything you do to the 800c you can do to the 500c. So don't just limit your searches to the 500c. There is some stuff you can adapt to the 500c from the 400 also.
     
  9. Csermonet47

    Csermonet47 New Member

    Messages:
    19
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Thank you for the input everyone! I am glad to hear it looks mostly untouched.

    The hole in the face plate is really unfortunate, but for $75 I can't complain too much. I think I will be able to make it really nice for about the price of a normal donor unit. I also purchased a Harman Kardon HK250 and some various tubes from the same guy that I should be able to sell and use the profits cover the cost of the whole restoration.

    I plan to post my progress and questions here as I go.
     
  10. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    19,314
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    You got a LARGE NUMBER 500c for $75.00?:eek2: I'm JEALOUS!!! A CLASSIC Case of Grand Theft AUDIO! 90 days in the county chain gang and forfeiture of all audio gear to me.:D You do know:dunno: I hope, that the Large Number Dial face glass is more rare than the normal 500c:deal:. Suggest you look for a new Front panel FAST! It'll only go up in value.:beatnik: And more so than a regular number face 500c.
     
  11. Tcomisky

    Tcomisky AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,051
    Location:
    Lawrenceville, NJ
    I picked one up today too. Not for $75 bucks though.

    Now all I need is time to go through it. I hate getting good audio gear in the springtime when I have so many other outdoor projects going on!

    I'm really glad the 12ax7's test good, there's 9 of those suckers in there!
    Nice that they have that little diamond etched in the bottom of them, but too bad something thought it would be a good idea to "clean" them. :(
    They still say West Germany on them though, and you can't wash off the diamond.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 29, 2017
  12. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    19,314
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    You think you got problems with the 500c. I was gifted this SX-939 http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/another-939-rebuild-thread.494501/ and it worked but it needed a LOT of help. Front panel, Front sub panel, -20db daughter board, new power switch, and a complete overhaul. Luckily a PIONEER vendor had all the parts I needed and got them all for $75 or so. And an AK'er who was parting out a 1010 had the -20db board sent it out gratis. Thanks TOM. Between Mouser and Yesterday's Audio, about $125.00 in it. The overhaul went well and it continues to run quite well. But I like my 737 better for some reason.

    Here's a BEFORE. Note the Switch with KEY!
    [​IMG]

    AFTER Overhaul and replacement of Front end parts. Antenna is a 6" dental pick laying down in back, and I'm picking up a Northern Baltimore Station (transmitter 45 miles away).
    [​IMG]

    Yes it's the same Unit. Luckily I had a 1010 a few years before this, and that overhaul helped greatly with the 939.
    I still have it , got new veneer in 2015 but have been procrastinating on re-veneering it.

    Larry
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2017
  13. Tcomisky

    Tcomisky AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,051
    Location:
    Lawrenceville, NJ
    I wasn't aware there was a difference? Can you tell the difference by the S/N? Mine has a couple of Nuvistor tubes in it too, I didn't realize this used them
     
  14. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    19,314
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    There were two models, small number 500c and 500c. I'm not familiar with how they were numbered as far as the serials. Either Fisherdude or theRed1 would probably know. IIRC the very early (low low numbered serials) used regular tubes for v1 and v2, then they went to nuvistors later. Nothing wrong with the nuvistor, it's still a tube, just in a metal case.
     
  15. Tcomisky

    Tcomisky AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    3,051
    Location:
    Lawrenceville, NJ

    So, per this thread, it would appear that the serial numbers that begin with 4 are the large number?

    http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/fisher-500c-do-you-have-a-big-number-dial.45034/
     
  16. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    19,314
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    Boy you are digging in the weeds for that thread. 2005? about 2-3 years before thered1 came along, and about 4 years before me Like Brian said in the last post, FISHER could have used multiple suppliers and put in whatever dial glass that was in stock at the time. however, having said that, I've only seen 1 or 2 large number 500c's in 10 years, and over 100 small number units in the same time. I've seen one large # 800c in the same time frame and that was a picture from Fisherdude. Apparently the Serials are all over the place on Large # 500c's. But they are almost as rare as hens teeth, the 800c large # even more so.
    I think the 1800's all had large # dials, but check with RSSteve on that. He's got more of them than anyone I know.
     
  17. Csermonet47

    Csermonet47 New Member

    Messages:
    19
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Nice find! I am jealous of your face plate. I will be testing these tubes in the next few days so lets hope I have similar luck

    I put in my orders with Hayseed and Metalbone so hopefully I can get the ball rolling with replacing capacitors by the end of next week. I also ordered some DeoxIT to service the pots and switches. In the mean time, I have been cleaning it up and trying to make it look a little more presentable. It has come back pretty good so far except for a few areas with corrosion.

    I lubricated the pulleys for the FM tuner and everything is good except for one pulley that will only spin intermittently. It is near the switch the previous owner put in and it looks a bit damaged from him cutting the hole for it. There is also a fair amount of play in the pulley and I am not sure if that is normal. I attached some pictures to hopefully show what I am talking about.

    It spins freely but I think the string is just too slick from excess lube. Any ideas on how to get more traction on the pulley? I was thinking maybe some wax or something?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. notdigital

    notdigital AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,183
    Location:
    NYNY
    I corrected the slippage in my 500c by tightening the dial string. Make sure that wire tensioning spring is correctly set and that the string is properly wound at the wheel. I didn't find it needed anything else; the slippage was corrected so I didn't get into rosins, wax, and stuff for the string.
     
  19. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    19,314
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    Cser; The pulley mount on the pulley closest to your fingers (on the left in the pics) has been bent from the horizontal. That mount needs to be rebent to parallel to the chassis and then adjust the end of the bend at the pulley so it's parallel to the chassis in two axis.
     
  20. Csermonet47

    Csermonet47 New Member

    Messages:
    19
    Location:
    Atlanta
    I messed with the tension with no luck so I stole some of my roommates rosin and it did the trick. Thanks!

    Larry, thank you for the clarification. I was curious about the original orientation of the pulley. I bent it back as close to spec as I could.
     

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