80's Technics Integrated Amps

I've currently got an SU-V3 with Technics SL-1210MK2 and Mission 702e speakers. I'm thinking of replacing the su-v3 with a NAD 3020, but I'd like to know if I'd notice the difference or if I'd be better off going for a higher end vintage technics or possibly pioneer amp?
 
Recent acquistion Technis SU V9

The input selector switch was frozen. Breaking it loose strips a flat steel, band in band, cable which actuates a remote sliding switch on a circuit board. Does anybody have any experience with repairing or replacing the flat band cable? Any parts available?
 
I have had an Su-v96 for a bit to drive my Infinity RS2001's with a Muse DAC for my PC. Everything seems to work fine BUT the speaker terminal plate has some of the worst clips I've ever used and it's torture to try and get speaker wire to stay in. Unfortunately it's also one of those NLA parts. And I can't seem to find anything that will work in it's place. Also the power works when pushed in but won't stay on unless you hold it in. Tried DeOxit but it doesn't seem to help. The Su V960 manual at HiFiEngine, says it's identical to V96 minus fan, says it's actually a PCB and not just a switch.

Can anyone offer any advice here as it sounds much better than anything else I've used in this case, everything else on the amp works like a charm and running some tests with that audiocheck.net test site shows this to do things right in many ways that the Sony, Kenwood, and Rotels I tried never could.

I'd REALLY like to make this work and any help would sure be appreciated!!! Thank you.
 
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SU-V9 / SU-V3 comparison

I've currently got an SU-V3 with Technics SL-1210MK2 and Mission 702e speakers. I'm thinking of replacing the su-v3 with a NAD 3020, but I'd like to know if I'd notice the difference or if I'd be better off going for a higher end vintage technics or possibly pioneer amp?

Well, this plan has been delayed slightly as I was able to purchase an SU-V9 in good working order for just £45!

I knew it would be heavy, but I wasn't quite ready for it. I think someone described it elsewhere as like lifting a small boulder, they weren't wrong!

My V3 is silver and the V9 is the black variation, the elegant glass door is long gone. I think I prefer the aesthetics of the silver V3 over the black V9, but beggars can't be choosers and it's the sound that counts!

I hooked the V9 up last night and gave it a whirl. First impressions on the sound are very good. I was always pleased with the warm and strong sound of the V3 but, having now heard the V9, I think the warmth of the V3 was a result of it trying to compensate for a slightly inaccurate bass response. The V9, in my opinion, does away with the superfluous warmth and replaces it with a detailed and fast bass response. The differences are subtle, but there's definitely an added sense of clarity and openness with the V9.

I was wondering, does the DC selector disable the sub and high filter buttons in addition to the tone dials?

On my model, something is preventing the grounding pin from tightening all the way in. As a result, my turntable's grounding wire sits slightly loose. I've managed to balance the wire so that I don't get any buzzing (the phono stage is dead quiet by the way), but I wonder if anyone else has seen this problem before? Maybe just a case of opening the amp up and having a look at the back of the pin?
 
wow - kool thread

i have a technics sa 550 that sounds great powering my speakerlab das 7 speakers

i bought a silver su v9 today for thirty bucks

the clear door has a small chunk missing out of the left top corner

tap plastics would be a cheap fix

the su v9 works i plugged headphones into it

i think the su v9 will blow the sa 550 away
 
i have read several posts about people who have these with broken doors

why not have a new piece of plastic cut and replace the door ?

most of the ones i see with broken doors look like the hinges are fine

i can measure my door if anyone wants the measurements
 
I have had an Su-v96 for a bit to drive my Infinity RS2001's with a Muse DAC for my PC. Everything seems to work fine BUT the speaker terminal plate has some of the worst clips I've ever used and it's torture to try and get speaker wire to stay in. Unfortunately it's also one of those NLA parts. And I can't seem to find anything that will work in it's place. Also the power works when pushed in but won't stay on unless you hold it in. Tried DeOxit but it doesn't seem to help. The Su V960 manual at HiFiEngine, says it's identical to V96 minus fan, says it's actually a PCB and not just a switch.

Can anyone offer any advice here as it sounds much better than anything else I've used in this case, everything else on the amp works like a charm and running some tests with that audiocheck.net test site shows this to do things right in many ways that the Sony, Kenwood, and Rotels I tried never could.

I'd REALLY like to make this work and any help would sure be appreciated!!! Thank you.

Open that baby up and take a look at the switch. I was able to buy exact replacement Matsushita switches here in Colorado Springs at Centennial Electronics.
 
Technics SU-V6X

I have this early 80's amp.
Powerful, heavy & metal chunk. Because i listen analog mainly it suits for it well.
Best way enjoy from these gears is keep it simple. I you have DBX deck best result for sound is play DBX tapes, these are made for it.
Can't say anything special for amp, there is nothing fancy but it carries sound like mule. Colossal cooler inside the heatsink to remove heat very well under heavy use. A protection circuit is useful if happens to....
I have B&W 630 speakers, i used them while then circuit starts cut off. Always when i turn balance full right protection went off. Right speakers was a manufacturer error because the element was glued to a slight incline so coil had heavy loads, which triggered circuit but save my amp. I fix this element by gluing it again straight.
I think is great amp.

ps. sorry my google english ;)
 
I have this early 80's amp.
Powerful, heavy & metal chunk. Because i listen analog mainly it suits for it well.
Best way enjoy from these gears is keep it simple. I you have DBX deck best result for sound is play DBX tapes, these are made for it.
Can't say anything special for amp, there is nothing fancy but it carries sound like mule. Colossal cooler inside the heatsink to remove heat very well under heavy use. A protection circuit is useful if happens to....
I have B&W 630 speakers, i used them while then circuit starts cut off. Always when i turn balance full right protection went off. Right speakers was a manufacturer error because the element was glued to a slight incline so coil had heavy loads, which triggered circuit but save my amp. I fix this element by gluing it again straight.
I think is great amp.

ps. sorry my google english ;)

One more thing this amp is DC amp it gives more kick for listening. There was somewhere in web article from dc amps.
 
A friend of mine is selling a Technics SU-V22 (1981). I have now an Yamaha A-5 (1979).
Do you think this technics may be an upgrade over the Yamaha?

Thanks!
 
If they use discrete transistors, they are nice. As for the STK chip amps in many technics integrated amps? All i can say is UGH! I see more blown STK chips then Carter has liver pills in my shop. Not a big fan of those things.
 
So, I recollected an old Technics SU-V4X amp, the very same amp which I happened to give as a gift in the actual 80:s(the former owner now uses bluetooth streaming to a single active stereo speaker, like so many).

The question is; is it really worth it to hook it up, I haven't listened to it myself since like back then. In example; how does the SQ fare compared to a modern 5x100W Home Theater-receiver from a well known brand, like Denon or Sony or alike?
 
Lol... It'll leave them theatre receivers behind... These amps have such good soundstage, and punch in their bracket. I am driving some B&W 683 speakers with one... Who needs active subwoofers?
 
Well, it do sound quite punchy over the hp-out with one of my cans, which I tested right now(Philips SHP8900). A Galaxy S5 as source.

I had to work the potentiometers a lot, but eventually they became noise-free without having to open the case for cleaning.

On the floor in my PC-corner:

20141108_170552.jpg
 
:yikes: don't run it like that!!!!!!

Needs to be on a level surface right way up.... You will render the liquid refrigerant filled heatsink useless
 
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