Originally posted by fliphandywork
I just got my 9090DB back from echowars... there is no steady green light on the front? Where can i get a bulb?
Thanks,
Jesse
Jesse...
I had no idea...this is the first 9090db I've seen in a loooooong time. I went and looked at the schematic, and it is
not a bulb, it is either a dual color LED or bi-color LED. Bias one way and you have green, bias the other way and you have red. Problem is, Sansui does NOT show the board in the manual (did I mention that Sansui manuals suck???), so I can't tell if it is a Bi-color (two leads) or dual color (three leads).
If I had known, probably a simple matter to take care of....
Edit: I took another look...the LED board is shown with another board (bloody hidden). It is a three-pin LED, so it is called a dual-color LED. It switches on the green side through the main output relay...another stupid idea from Sansui. LED's are a very low-failure item, so I'm thinking the problem is with the relay contacts. There isn't much current going through an LED (15mA maybe), and the relay contacts are not designed to reliably carry such low currents...hence any oxidation of the contacts will impede current flow.
If you can get the top off of the relay without destroying it, then you can clean the contacts ( #600 sandpaper, a careful touch, and a shot of DeOxit or other good contact cleaner) and the green will probably start working.
Found this:
Take a narrow strip (1/4" approx, cut or torn), fold it in half and crease it with grit sides facing out, and then separate the contacts, slip it between, and withdraw letting the contact provide its' own pressure. Repeat if needed, then clean any dust and grit out with a strip of paper towel, or or other lint free material. This is important, since the slightest non-conductive dust on the newly cleaned and polished surfaces can easily prevent electrical contact, especially at the low voltage/current values we are usually dealing with. The fineness and thin aspect of this improvised "paper cleaning file" keeps the points in proper relationship while being used, so distortion or flattening of the contact point is minimal, if any.
Tip courtesy of T. E. Spillers
I would add that...the contact that needs to be cleaned is on the 'made' side of the relay, so unless you close the relay by pushing the contacts closed with gentle pressure when pulling the thin strip of sandpaper through, the proper contact will not get cleaned. Also, any grit that gets loosened needs to be flushed out with DeOxit or ProGold.
All in all, the tricky part is getting the relay cover off. It is held on on the long sides with a small tab near the base...look close and you'l see it. Don't worry if you damage the tab, but try not to destroy the whole cover. If the cover is sloppy after removing it, it can be held in place with a
tiny dab of silicone when it is put back together.