A Little Help For Eico's HF-81

What's the rationale for NOT relocating the rest of the PSU? Is it just more work than necressary or some technical reasons?

Grounding, primarily. After you rectify and filter the DC, you want it as "closely coupled" with the circuits that use the current, as possible. This avoids "antennas" for noise.

Any RF or EMI noise that "rides in" on the transformer AC leads, is handily dealt with by the PS filter caps. So, having just the AC parts outboard, hurts nothing...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
You nailed it jaz -- The work had already been done adding the choke, low voltage DC supply, new SS rectifiers, etc., etc., and it simply would have meant tearing all of that out and rebuilding it again on a new chassis, for a lot more work.

From the standpoint of the umbilical, using that approach would have saved only one lone conductor in it to achieve the same operation as achieved with the existing approach, so either approach is basically a wash from that standpoint. So what would that approach have produced?

Solving hum problems means following the well established process of ensuring good lead dress, shielding, ground systems, low noise tubes, power supply filtering, and even potentially modifying the design to have the small signal tube heaters operate from a DC source -- and that is exactly the process that was followed here as well. Invariably, the problem is completely solved at some point in that mix or if not, then some point was not adequately addressed in that mix.

Ultimately, that's exactly what happened here, where the inadequacy was in shielding. But we always think of that in terms of cables, lead dress, or maybe missing covers. We'd never think of it in terms of the final effort required here, as such large scale noise control measures surely would have been taken care of at the design level, right? Except that in this case, that's EXACTLY where the biggest compromises were made. There was simply no place to run to get away from the contamination produced by the compromised power transformer. The only option left then was if the circuits could not be moved far enough away from the transformer, then move the transformer away from the circuits. Since all of the other noise reduction efforts had already been done, shielding from the power transformer -- as opposed to from the power supply proper -- was all that was required to finish the job.

In this case then, removing the entire power supply would have gained virtually nothing, other than to produce more work, and conformity to a typical "understanding" of the way such things are done. On the down side however, remoting the entire power supply would have made for a much larger power supply unit, than can be had by simply remoting just the power transformer itself.

So the answer then was shielding the power transformer, rather than the power supply. Isn't this exactly what other manufacturers did in providing complete end bell and Faraday Shielding transformer construction, and mounting the transformer on top of rather than through the chassis, which was often made of much lower magnetically active material? I've effectively accomplished the same thing here, by using space as the shielding tool. Since the transformer itself was the only noise source left, removing just that component then was just as effective as if the entire supply had been removed as well.

Dave
 
I've only seen one modern HF-81 Heyboer transformer I believe, and that was in Specialidiot's unit some years ago. As I recall, it was not shielded, and represented the same construction as the original.

Dave
 
Epilog

The last part needed arrived today, which will allow this project to be closed out now. The remote power transformer chassis has rendered this particular HF-81 with zero hum of any kind. What was initially one of the noisiest amplifiers I've ever encountered, has now taken its place among some of the quietest, which is particularly noteworthy when you remember that the full gain of the line/tone stages is being amplified 100% by the power amplifier sections at all times in this design.

Unlike so many Scott and Fisher designs that place the volume control at the input of the power amplifier section, Eico always places the volume control at the input to the line amplifier as explained in an earlier post. This means that the full noise of all amplification stages is heard in the Eico, even with the volume control at minimum. For the unit to now operate so quietly with that type of design topology is a very notable improvement. To that point, the HF-81 was hardly anyone's choice for private headphone listening -- even with a suitable reduction network -- because it placed all the hum and noise it generates in stock form up close and personal. The improvements obtained will certainly support the use of headphones now.

Two other improvements are also noteworthy, and include:

1. The power transformer, and the amplifier, both run cooler now, since the two largest heat sources -- the output tubes and the power transformer -- have been separated so that they cannot combine their heat output to a higher overall level. For the power transformer it is particularly noteworthy, since it no longer sinks heat from the output tubes. After two hours of operation, the transformer now just reaches 120F. This level of improvement can almost certainly only be obtained by remoting the power transformer away from the output tubes, as even new replacement transformers are still subject to sinking output tube heat to a higher operating temperature when installed in the Eico chassis.

2. The transformer is now quieter in operation as well. With a much larger steel chassis to resonate its operating noise over, transformer noise was a common complaint in stock form. On the small aluminum chassis, there is little to resonate, making for much quieter operation.

Overall then, remoting the power transformer not only removes the last vestiges of hum, but will surely improve its life span as well due to the cooler operating temperature it now enjoys.

Pics include:

1. The finished remote power transformer chassis. The chassis Jones socket is a female piece to prevent any shock hazard in case the transformer chassis should be plugged into AC power, but the umbilical is not plugged in. The fuse is also located on this chassis now as shown.

2. The rear side includes a standard IEC connector to allow easy removal of the AC power cord.

3. The underside is simplicity in itself. The only components located under the chassis are the CL-90 current limiter, and the AC bypass cap.

4. The amplifier and transformer chassis operating together. The transformer chassis is little bigger than the power transformer itself.

Overall, this unit now has impeccable manners to match its already well received sonic attributes. This coupled with the performance and life extending features now included make it a serious contender in the over-crowded EL84 class of amplifiers.

Dave
 

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Great thread Dave!

Just curious, the 333k film cap going from the 120v input socket to ground; is that in lieu of a death cap?
 
Dave, that's a fantastic implementation there.

Only thing I might have done, is use some of that "chinese finger puzzle" fabric-tube cable covering over the harness. The fabric cover would look more "period" to the amp, IMHO.

That said, it's sturdy, it's neat, and it definitely does everything that was set out for it to do.
 
Tom -- That cap is a modern replacement of the original wax Eico AC line bypass cap -- a .03 uF -- connected from one side of the AC line to the chassis. In this case however, the AC wiring has been "corrected" so that the AC switch and fuse (and CL-90 current limiter) are all in series and fixed to the high side of the line by way of the polarized AC power cord system. The other side of the transformer winding and the AC bypass cap are then firmly tied to the neutral side. This insures that the chassis is always bypassed to the lowest impedance side of the line with respect to AC ground for minimum sensitivity to noise, and eliminates any shock hazard in the process.

Dave
 
Gordon -- thanks so much for your comments. I absolutely would have used some sort of sheathing to cover the umbilical -- if I knew it was available, or where it was available from. Your comment about that is very well taken. Do you know of a source for it?

Dave
 
Who knew? Obviously not me! Thanks so much. I'm always learning something new from the great AK community here!

Dave
 
Odds and Ends

FUNCTION SELECTOR SWITCH:

Later versions of the HF-81, such as the subject example of this thread, include a Function Selector switch with 6 positions -- one of which is within the two Monophonic settings, and labeled as "Tuner Aux".

This setting may be a misnomer to those not familiar with the strange and whacky world of early, early stereo. In this setting, the left channel inputs (only) are applied to both power amplifiers, so it was useful for playing a mono AM or FM tuner out of both channels if the signal was applied to a left channel high level input. Any right channel input signals in this setting are simply dead ended at the Function switch, and therefore are not part of the output signal.

If you want a truly blended monophonic signal, where both speakers are reproducing both left and right input signals, then use the "Phono" setting of the Function switch, as that setting in fact blends the signals of the two channels together as a mono signal at both channel outputs. In spite of the Phono label for this position, it does this for all signals from any input selection.

HEATER VOLTAGE:

A common modification is to include multiple CL devices in the AC primary wiring to reduce the power supply voltages back in line with published values. However, with more and more of these units operating with the Russian EL84M tubes (or any of their Russian variants), don't be too trigger happy on installing multiple CL devices.

I have tested a number of these tubes now as new tubes, and found that while some in fact perform well enough at a design center 6.300 volts heater voltage, more of these tubes than not require at least 6.5 volts or closer to 6.6 volts to operate at their nominal potential.

Such was the case with the new matched quad of Russian tubes in this unit, that were purchased from a very reputable vender. Initial testing at 6.300 heater volts produced rather poor test results, with one tube performing quite well, two very weak, and one bad. Increasing the heater voltage to 6.55 volts caused all tubes to perform very well indeed. The change is nothing short of remarkable.

As a result, this unit has but one CL-90 installed, which typically produces an average of 6.56 vac at each of the four output tube socket heater terminals, from a line voltage of 121.5 vac. This is hardly enough of an increase to give any concern for the 12AX7 phase inverter tubes that also operate from this source, but makes a dramatic difference when using the Russian output tubes.

Dave
 
I thought the -81 used the same 7/6 switch as the -85, with seven positions, but only half the switch using all seven (the odd position being the two FM options, one channel of which was tied together.
 
Sam -- you're thinking of the input Selector Switch, which is used between both the HF-81 and HF-85 units, as is in fact the Function Selector Switch as well. The text was addressing the Function Selector switch, not the input Selector switch.

Dave
 
I've rebuilt a couple of those input selector switches, no fun. I think next time I'd look for a replacement like they sell for the PAS line.
 
Sam -- you're thinking of the input Selector Switch, which is used between both the HF-81 and HF-85 units, as is in fact the Function Selector Switch as well. The text was addressing the Function Selector switch, not the input Selector switch.

Dave

Ah, that makes sense. The description confused me for some reason.
 
Dave, if you look up "wire harness sheathing" on "that auction site" or wherever, you should be able to find a literal plethora of options. Apparently, the car audio guys are big into that stuff. All sorts of colors and materials, including this, which struck me as being particularly appropriate for something of this vintage:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Car-Ex...ess-100M-/131283136298?_trksid=p2054897.l5658

attachment.php


I can't tell, from the description, what the diameter is- but boy, that color pattern... that looks the part.

Regards,
Gordon.
 

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It absolutely does Gordon!

The umbilical is made up of 10 #16 ga leads to prevent any voltage drop. You might remember the old umbilicals that Heathkit used between the power supply and amplifier chassis of their W-1M through W-3AM amplifiers and preamp. The drop in the 6.3 volt power to the heaters, and the AC line voltage as well by the time it made it through the umbilical for the preamp was significant -- so much so that Heath had to use parallel lines for the heater power -- which still left a lot of compromise. The 16 ga (virtually) eliminates any loss through the 7 leads that support all AC line voltage and heater power in this umbilical.

A 3/8 inch diameter cover might work, although could be hard to get through if the cover won't "bunch up" into a bigger diameter for wire installation. I would assume it does, but can you confirm this? If so, that size would be about perfect.

Dave
 
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