A new challenge! What's the best system you can build for under $500?

Discussion in 'New Gear - Values' started by BadassBob, Nov 29, 2014.

  1. Splatter Pak

    Splatter Pak High-End Scrounger

    Messages:
    3,849
    Location:
    Independence, MO
    I recall there should be a "stereo - mono" switch on the back, if it is bridgeable. The speakers must be hooked up a certain way too, I recall there is a "BT" position. Is your amp a P30, or something else? Oh, and call me Splat.

    EDIT: I looked at a photo on the www, and the sliding switch should be labeled 8 ohm, 4 ohm, and BTL 8 ohm. Switch it to the "BTL" position, and hoop up the speaker to the "BTL +" and "BTL -" outputs. That should do it. I think I know where you can get a second amp, btw.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2017

     

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  2. bimasta

    bimasta Super Member

    Messages:
    2,598
    No, mine are the P80. More power I guess (50WPC I think), but no switches on the back — one of them has a 110/220 voltage switch, but that's all. Otherwise they're identical, and neither has a Mono/Stereo/BTL switch. I still think they're bridgeable, it's just not built-in. The two channels share a common ground, and I believe that makes them bridgeable — if you know what you're doing... and I don't. Anyway, they're surprisingly good, very compact, and I can run them Mono with a Y-connector, and get two 100W monoblocks.

    Thanks for the help, Splat. BTW, did your stack come with the separate Remote Control box?
     
  3. Splatter Pak

    Splatter Pak High-End Scrounger

    Messages:
    3,849
    Location:
    Independence, MO
    At a flea market, I bought the tuner, tape deck, pre and power - $20. I didn't know there was a Remote Control Box.
     
  4. bimasta

    bimasta Super Member

    Messages:
    2,598
    Got mine the same way, but at thrifts. Got a couple of stacks, for that kind of money, within a year. I thought the Pre and Tuner were mediocre. I don't play tape anymore (big mistake) and the Deck needed new belts. I was impressed when I looked inside — it's like a full-size deck, but "folded" up the sides — and Aiwa made great decks, their 770 almost like a Nak TOTL. But the Power amps really impressed me, toroidal transformers and other audiophile stuff. They're all I kept. I only use them as "utility" amps, like to test new speakers without interfering with my main rig, or to power computer speakers (small size and silver color complement my Macs). But I always wonder what they'd sound like with superior parts. They probably need a recap anyway because of age. I had a Perreaux 200W amp (high end) improve dramatically just by upgrading 4 caps. Went from cold and clinical to warm and musical.

    I know we're not talking serious components here, but maybe they could be with a few cap and resistor upgrades. Too bad you didn't get the RC unit. It's a little marvel. I have 3 of them. If you find one, grab it.
     
  5. johnda

    johnda AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    4,914
    Location:
    Southold, NY
    I really like the Yamaha R-S202, which replaced the R-S201, it has great capability because of the built-in Bluetooth system. Match it with any home computer that can use Bluetooth and you have the internet at your doorstep.The only thing to watch out for is that it is recommended for 8 ohm speakers. I have the R-S201, but it is currently acting as a tuner for my A-S500 amp.
     
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  6. Nixxuz

    Nixxuz AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    678
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Kindle Fire 5th gen $39.99
    NobSound Mini BT 50wtx2 $29.00
    Dilvpoetry TUBE-01 6j1 preamp $29.00
    BIC DV64 (pair) $246.00
    Dayton Audio SUB-1200 $148

    $6 left over for wire.
     
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  7. theophile

    theophile Pheasant Plucker. Subscriber

    This costs nothing.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. trog69

    trog69 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Swapping out the sub-out means using any of the @ $100 desktop amps, but for $550, a pair of Klipsch RP-160m's and, via Massdrop, the TEAC AI-101DA desktop amp/DAC will let you play hi-res files via USB, SPDIF and RCA, a decent headphone output, speakers and a sub-out, all for $200 is a killer system for, admittedly $50 over the line. 26w/ch. powers those 160m's to face-melting output with gobs of tight bass and detailed highs without the "shouting" some older tweeter horns using aluminum were described. The reference premiers use titanium for a slightly more laid-back yet very dynamic tweeters in these new rubberized horns.
     

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