A nice 2220 becomes a great 2220 !

Bert 1100

Super Member
I got this nice 2220 for a very reasonable price on our local auction site....
I was happy to see it was all original, even the adjustment pots still had their factory seal untouched.
The only thing wrong was with the lights : the previous owner tried to change them but made a mess with the tuning string and forgot a screw, and the light assembly had slid down on one side...

Now it has all new caps, new PS diodes, 2SC458 changed out for KSC1845 and all-Led lights.
Also I fiited in an IEC mains connector and new speaker binding posts.

It now looks very pretty and sounds really good.
I find the sound is a little strong on the very highs (my guess is this comes from the electrolytics changed to film caps) , otherwise it is nicely balanced and the lows are quite punchy.
It has been running for only a few hours so I expect there will be some small changes yet to come. I find it usually is the case after such a rebuild.
I'll see, if it stays that way and I find it annoying, I might try using electrolytics as it was originally.

Before :

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After :
PS Board

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Preamp board :

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Phono board :

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Amp board and main caps :

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from below :

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the new connectors :

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in my messy workshop !

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finished..... :music:

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Great work! Have one of those on my bench right now. Realized after I bought it the model # plate on the back was missing. :( Oh well. It'll still get restored. And agreed, they sound great for such a small wpc receiver. It's a Marantz cap coupled model so you can't go wrong.
 
I just traded a recapped 2220 (my first recap) for a Marantz TT530 linear tracking turntable. The turntable probably wasn't worth as much as the receiver, but I had an abundance of receivers, and I was curious about the linear tracker. Turns out it needed two new belts, but after replacing them, it sounds surprisingly good. I feel like I ought to have trader's remorse, but the 2220 was not being used, so I'm happy with the deal.
 
Thanks for the kind words !

Yes, the 2220 may be "only" 20 wpc, but it is built just as well as its bigger brothers, and is pretty heavy for its power rating !

Now I need a scope so I can properly set up the amp board, and the one in my 1060...

MBuras : my 1060 has the model number plate missing as well, god knows where and when it went missing....
 
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Bert 1100 - Very nice! I've been looking to buy one of these for practice prior to engaging a recap on my 2265. The work looks great and I personally can't wait to audition a "baby" Marantz - if it sounds anywhere close to my 2265 I'll be happy.

...on a technical and educational note, I've noticed what looks to be like (3) filter caps, is this because its cap coupled? If you guys would be so kind to offer a little insight I'd really appreciate it.
 
I agree the 2220 is a nice little unit and sounds surprisingly good. Nice work. How difficult is it to swap out those speaker terminals and are they easily sourced?
 
...on a technical and educational note, I've noticed what looks to be like (3) filter caps, is this because its cap coupled? If you guys would be so kind to offer a little insight I'd really appreciate it.
Yes, Marantz receivers or amps of a cap coupled design have three main caps. Since I'm a parts changer and not a tech, I can't explain why. I think the larger cap filters the DC and the two smaller ones are involved in coupling the two channels, but I'm not even sure of that. But others on here will know. Hopefully they will chime in as most of us could use the education.
 
...on a technical and educational note, I've noticed what looks to be like (3) filter caps, is this because its cap coupled? If you guys would be so kind to offer a little insight I'd really appreciate it.
The 1 biggest cap is the main power supply. Here there is only zero/ground and a + voltage (53V DC in this case). There are two PS caps when the amp need a MINUS and a PLUS supply centered around the zero / ground, like in your 2265 for example.
The 2 identical big caps are the "coupling" caps. There is one for each channel, they block out the DC that is present at the output of the amp board, which here is about half of the main supply voltage, so 26.5V DC. They are not there on your 2265 because there is no DC on the amp's output (well, ideally there is none ! it should never be more than one or three dozens of mV)
That's why it's called a "cap coupled" amp. Found in the 2215, 2220 and 2230 receivers, in the 1030 and 1060 amps and probably others.

Steven beat me to it while I was typing :)
 
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How difficult is it to swap out those speaker terminals and are they easily sourced?
It's quite easy. The terminals came from that auction site but I have used the Pomona 6883 (available from Mouser)
What you need to do is to drill out the original screw holes to 12-13mm (not so easy, you need the proper tools). thats where the Plus terminal comes through. The Minus terminal goes in where the slot is left from the original terminal, but you need to file / cut out a bit of the plastic on the terminal.
There is a bit of an opening left in between the left and right terminals, but it's barely noticeable.

Here's a photo from my 1060, it's exactly the same system. They are the Pomona 6883 binding posts.

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Beware, depending on the exact binding post you use, the plate with the voltage selector wires will need to be cut out a bit (thats only for the international multivoltage models)
 
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BTW, really nice touch on the speaker terminals - great idea and absolutely love it! :thumbsup:
Thank you ! Having these speaker terminals and the IEC connector makes it much easier when you are swapping amps / receivers every week or so like I am :rflmao:
 
More about a cap coupled amp : if you test the output for DC without a speaker connected, you will find half the main supply voltage :yikes:. That is normal since the circuit is not closed by the speaker, so the voltage cannot drop even after the coupling cap.
 
Don't know about that one, but many/most cap coupled amps will have about 330 ohms to ground on the output so the cap quickly stabilizes at zero volts on the output. If it didn't, I'd probably add it.
 
I think the new binding posts are a great idea, ( much easier for connecting wires ) but I also would imagine that the for the purist out there ,it would be frowned on as it's no longer in original form?
 
Did you increase the capacitance of the coupling caps? Did you calculate the change in frequency response for this?
 
I think the new binding posts are a great idea, ( much easier for connecting wires ) but I also would imagine that the for the purist out there ,it would be frowned on as it's no longer in original form?

They made a pile of these. Purists can find a different unit. The OP may keep this unit making it not available to a purist.

I had an early 1030 that I recapped and such. Didn't mess with things as it was a light bulb blue light (bulb still working), engraved faceplate, pre/power connections (only early 1030 but lots of other Marantz units) and all black speaker connectors. Actually had to look at the back panel to connect wires properly. Also, since this was a 'collector' grade unit I did not install an IEC but I really like em. Have one on my Luxman C-1000, making it a pleasure to move and such not having the power cord dangling and such.

Each unit needs to be evaluated and the owner can do whatever they like. Not like butchering this unit to make it easier and better is going to do serious damage to the value, couple hundred at most and well the OP may well get that value out of using it. Heck some may pay more for that work. Whatever there were too many of these made to worry about it one way or the other.
 
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