Scott Hughey
New Member
Thanks for the encouragement. I was ready to toss in the towel this weekend. Have some ideas to follow through with tomorrow.Hang in there Scott. You are going to get this figured out soon.
Thanks for the encouragement. I was ready to toss in the towel this weekend. Have some ideas to follow through with tomorrow.Hang in there Scott. You are going to get this figured out soon.
Now that's funny - I don't care who you are! Was the opening too dramatic?
Thanks, I will get more as I go. And yes, the voltages on the PS all look good. Relay is new. Still digging in...Yes more pics please .... check the condition of the relay and also verify PS voltages. I acquired one with a blown power amp AND one side of the relay contacts were burnt.
Thanks Randy - I'm back from 3 days at work and I had a look and adjusted everything to spec. right channel is still dead quiet. PS voltages all good too. Something disconnected maybe? Two of the big output transistors had red X's on them and tested shorted when I got this thing. Are there other components that could have been taken out when that first occurred? Should I check all resistors or some other transistors? Or would those components not take a channel out so completely? The right channel is absolutely gone.Scott,
This is a good time to download the 2325 service manual. It contains a short section on adjusting the power supply. You can find it several places including here:
hfiengine.com.
Check out section 20 on page 11 of the service manual for instructions on where to test the power supply output and how to adjust it.
I can't do crap either, but I'm learning good crap! No, this one has 'jumpers' internally. But missing stuff like that would be my speed.I am not an electronics expert at all. Can't do crap. But I was wondering if your item had pre-jumpers? Are they in place? Just a guess.
Thanks! I'll make a DBT and start using tomorrow. I'll keep everyone posted...There was no mention of it in a previous post, but do you have a DBT? If so, it'd be a good idea to use it and find out if you have a short somewhere and it'll help prevent the issue from cascading. Your dead channel can be a variety of things, but those red X's on the output transistors might be a clue. Sounds like maybe someone couldn't afford the repairs so they dumped it. Your score!
Well, made simple dim bulb tester, and plugged the 2325 into it (after verifying the DBT worked with another device). There is a problem: the bulb went full brightness instantly and then after about 3 seconds it goes into a steady low glow. I turned it off and repeated again with the same results.There was no mention of it in a previous post, but do you have a DBT? If so, it'd be a good idea to use it and find out if you have a short somewhere and it'll help prevent the issue from cascading. Your dead channel can be a variety of things, but those red X's on the output transistors might be a clue. Sounds like maybe someone couldn't afford the repairs so they dumped it. Your score!
I didn't think of those filter caps charging up - that's good news. Thanks, Steven!That is the way a DBT is supposed to work. It is bright for a few seconds as those big caps charge up (high current flow), and then it dims as the current flow decreases. If there is a short, the current stays high and the bulb stays bright. If it's bright after 8-10 seconds, time to turn it off and go looking for the problem. If yours dims, that is good news.
Thanks for the help!What wattage bulb are you using in your dim bulb? For a high power amp like that you need a minimum of 150 watt bulb I normally use a 200 Watt on really high power amps.
If it goes to dim that's the main caps charging up not a problem. Where both transistors marked with an X on the same amp board? If so you need to check all the transistors on the driver board.
You will probably need a signal tracer of some sort from this point on. You can make one with a set of earbuds. Just cut the end off and strip the wires back, connect an alligator clip with about 6 inches of wire to the ground wire, and connect the two signal wires together with a probe. Connect the alligator clip to ground and you can use the probe to trace the signals through the amp be careful not to short anything. When I am using a probe I connect the unit to my Dim bulb tester. this give a little bit of assurance that if you slip you won't blow everything up.
I have found that the tone boards and tone switches can cause this problem. For simplest testing use AUX or TAPE inputs These inputs connect directly (through switches) to the Balance control, then Volume control, then tone board, then filter switches.
Good Luck.
Go to a true value, or any mom and pop hardware store I just bought a 150, 200, and 300 at Ganal lumber. I use the 300 for Sansui BA 5000, and Marantz 500s.The 75W bulb will glow at idle, and probably light up with very little load applied to the amplifiers. I use a 100W which works fine with the 2325, there is just a dim glow at idle. As suggested above, a 150W would be nice, but we can't even purchase the 100W incandescent lamps any more.
Thanks, Randy. I was wondering what size bulb to use on the 2325. I'll talk to you later today.The 75W bulb will glow at idle, and probably light up with very little load applied to the amplifiers. I use a 100W which works fine with the 2325, there is just a dim glow at idle. As suggested above, a 150W would be nice, but we can't even purchase the 100W incandescent lamps any more.
Thanks, I bet I can find one somewhere around here in an old fashioned hardware store.Go to a true value, or any mom and pop hardware store I just bought a 150, 200, and 300 at Ganal lumber. I use the 300 for Sansui BA 5000, and Marantz 500s.
Great! I really wish I knew how to step through a signal path somehow. Any clues you can provide will be put to use - I'm really determined to get this thing operating properly.If you can’t trace signals, I will put a thing together tomorrow and post.
Yes. This was discussed somewhere before. LED's and fluorescents don't present the resistance that incandescents do, and that resistance is critical.About those bulbs.....we still have to use old-style incandescent bulbs for a Dim Bulb tester, right?
Got some 100W, 150W and 200W bulbs at Walmart. There weren't many left. Time to get some for your DBT's !Yes. This was discussed somewhere before. LED's and fluorescents don't present the resistance that incandescents do, and that resistance is critical.